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Posted by Ann on 03/12/02

Early last summer, our daughter Marissa decided what she would like for a graduation gift - a girl's only trip to Cozumel!  She didn't have to ask me twice!!  She'd been there with us two years ago and wouldn't even consider anywhere else!

After pinpointing Spring Break week on her school calendar, I emailed Alicia to see if "Mom" had a room for us and we started watching airfares.  Wow, without SunCountry in the mix, fares were all over the place, but finally found a do-able rate in to Cancun for dates that would work.

We left Mpls at 6 am on Sunday, March 3.  Landed in Cancun right on time at 9:30.  After a green light and with Ron Lee's instructions in hand regarding taking the Riviera bus to Playa, we were soon on our way. By 11 am we are on the bus and headed for Playa del Carmen.  We have just enough time to catch the noon ferry.

Unfortunately, we're on one of the slow boats and it's a bit rough today - the Norte is picking up steam - and Marissa has a slight bout of seasickness.  Once on land, she's fine....might have something to do with the fact that we're in Coz??  

After a stop at Fat Tuesdays for a quick lunch (shared the Cuban sandwich and couldn't finish it) we head for Executive to pick up our VW.  Yes, they have our reservation for a hardtop, or would we like a convertible for the same price?  I'm traveling with an 18 yo...what do YOU think we got??  The agent walks over to the lot with us and says take your pick, and soon we are headed for Alicia's in our multi-colored bug.

As we pull up out front, we see Brad and Cassie just getting ready to leave.  And Alicia comes running out the gate to greet us with hugs and to make introductions.  As usual, it's just like coming home.

Brad and Cassie are heading for the East side, and we are a little tired from our 2 a.m. wake-up, so we just enjoy getting settled in to our room and visiting with Alicia and Chuco for a while.  After a short rest, we get cleaned up and head for the square.  It's Sunday night and we really enjoy seeing all the families out for the evening.  

For dinner, Marissa chose Asian Garden.  What?  On our first night here?  But I should have known; it's one of her favorites!  We shared one entree of cashew chicken and barely finished it...delicious!  After dinner, we took a walk down to check out Carlos & Charlies.  Mind you, my girl loves to dance, so this was right up her alley!  Oh, boy....I can see a lot of loud music and late nights ahead!  Oh, well, what better reason to take nice relaxing siestas on the beach in the afternoons, right?

We have reservations for a resort diving course in the morning, so we make it an early night (relatively...lol) and head home to Alicia's.  

El Norte blows into town... Day 2 (3/4/02)

Marissa wakes me up on Monday morning asking "did we leave the top down on the car?"  Yep, sure did...and it's pouring outside!!  Time to get up and have Chuco's french toast and coffee anyhow.  And who's at the breakfast table but Dawn and Jim, also from Minnesota.  We met last year at Alicia's. This is great!  Jim's a little bummed though because he had trouble with an eardrum and won't be diving anymore this trip.

After some catching up with them, we decide to run out to Papa Hogs and talk to Margaret about rescheduling our resort course.  The rain has let up a little by now, but it still looks threatening so we decide to put the top back up on the car!  

We meet Margaret at the dive shop and decide that we'll just call her in a day or two when the weather improves.  So, we take a drive downtown and go to the Coffee.net to email home.  Then it's off to the Chedraui to pick up some snacks and sandwich makings for lunch.  

After lunch, Marissa decides to take a siesta in the hammock, and I go to a cantina with Alicia, Chuco, Jim and Dawn.  Las Boyas is closed today, so Chuco finds us another cantina to have a few beers and snacks.  They bring all kinds of little plates with various veggies, dips, meat, etc.  Yummy!!

Back at the B&B, I take a short nap too.  Then Marissa and I get ready for the evening out.  We make a stop at Hacienda San Miguel to say hi to Angela.  It's great to see her again! Next it's dinner at Sonora Grill (Tut, you were SOOOO right about the garlic shrimp!!)  Very nice place, great food and service, and very reasonable.  That one goes on the list of "musts" from now on!!

After dinner, we take a walk and do some browsing in some of the little shops off the square.  Then it's off to Senor Frogs.  Oh boy!!  Mind you, if I were there with Mark this would not be our usual choice for how to spend an evening in Coz...but I'm traveling with my girl this time and her enthusiasm is infectious!    

There was already a big crowd there that got larger as the night went on.  We had a great time and I have to admit, it's been a long time since I've danced that much!!  One thing we noticed is that the staff is much friendlier and fun than at Carlos and Charlies.  They do work hard to make you feel welcome and get you into the party atmosphere.

Wow...is it really 2 a.m?  No wonder I'm worn out...lol!  Time to head back to our comfortable beds at Alicia's.  Sigh...rain and all, it's been a great day!

The East side - Day 3 (3/5/02)

We wake up to another drizzly morning, but the wind seems to be letting up some.  Still not looking good for diving though.  By the time we have breakfast and visit with Alicia and Chuco for a while, the rain has quit.  

So we head out on the cross island road and make our first stop at Mescalitos.  There are a few people there, but it's a pretty calm crowd so far. (That will change...lol!) We hang out there for a while, checking out some of the shops.  Marissa slept thru breakfast this morning so she's getting hungry. We split an order of delicious chicken fajitas for lunch...glad we didn't get two orders!!  Just as they bring our food, here comes Jim, Dawn, Brad and Cassie!  It's Jim and Dawn's last full day and it looks like they are prepared to make the most of it.   What a bunch of nuts!!

Its starting to warm up and the sun is trying to come out.  Looks promising!  We finish our lunch, take some pictures with the rest of the B&B gang and head for the next stop - Coconuts!  

There's quite a crowd here and Lorenzo, the parrot is entertaining in fine form.  He and Marissa made friends and he sat on her hand soaking up the attention.  She discovered that he loves to have his head scratched and when she stopped he protested by trying to take a chunk out of her hand!  We sat there a while, enjoying the music and the beautiful view.  Then it was time to move on.  

We made a leisurely drive down the coast.  The ocean is rolling pretty good today.  Not too many out on the beaches, but we did see some surfers trying the waves.  I sure love this drive!!  By the time we reach Rastas, the sun is really coming out...now THIS is how it should be!  We take a little walk on the beach at Bob's Marley Bar and get our feet in the water for the first time.  

Time to head back to town and go to the internet cafe to check and send emails to our men at home.  Then it's back to Alicia's for a short siesta and get ready to go out for dinner.  At the recommendation of many, we decide to try Havana Club.  Wow, those cosmopolitans are yummy!!  We both ordered pasta alfredo and it was delicious, but we should have split one.  The portions were HUGE!

We take a walk to burn some of those carbs and Marissa checks on prices for hairbraiding with extensions.  Then we head for....you guessed it...Senor Frogs!! lol.  Tonight the waiters recognize us and greet us warmly.  I can still hear QuiQue saying "Hola Mommy!"  After a few drinks and LOTS of dancing, we decide to call it a night.  Hopefully, the weather has turned and we can dive tomorrow!

Perfect weather at last!!  - Day 4,  (3/6/02)

Disclaimer - this was a busy day so it's a long one!  
I had set the alarm for 7 and wake up to a perfect Cozumel morning.  The sun is shining and sky is that brilliant blue I've never seen anywhere else.  A cup of coffee and breakfast a la Chuco...ahhh, what better way to start the day!

About 8:30, I call Margaret and she says "Yes, today's the day...come on down!"  So we hurry to get dressed and we're off to Hog Town.  Margaret gives us the necessary papers to fill out and hands each of us a diving manual.  We read over the sections she has marked and then she sits down and goes over all of it with us.  'Ris says..."this is Physics."  

Next we go across the road to the dive shop and get fitted with BC vests, shorty wetsuits, weight belts, etc.  Wow...talk about completely throwing your balance out of whack!  I wasn't prepared for the weight of the tank...and I'm thinking I should have been going to the gym 5 days a week instead of 3...lol!!  

Margaret seems to be very thorough in explaining each piece of equipment and in detailing each of the next steps.  So far, so good...time to get in the water!  We wade out to chest deep water and put on our fins, adjust our masks, etc.  Then it's 'regs in your mouth and sit on the bottom.  Don't forget to BREATHE!'  Again, this part is going okay, so we start working on the skills.  Marissa first, practicing clearing the reg, purging and clearing her mask.  She's doing fine!!

I'm just practicing breathing through the reg, waiting my turn.  Suddenly, Margaret signals to go up and when we surface she says "we have to get out of the water for a bit."  I turn around to see huge waves coming!!  Yikes!!  A cruise ship had come in close and rather fast, causing the waves.  Kind of scarey and challenging, but we made our way back to the shore.  Once there, we took off the BCs/tanks, etc and just rested for about 20 min until it calmed down again.

Okay, let's try it again!  Since 'Ris had already done the skills successfully, Margaret had her wait on shore until I was done.  I have to admit after the wave thing I really had to concentrate and calm down, but soon I was clearing my reg and mask without problems.  Margaret was very patient and let me take all the time necessary to make sure I was comfortable.

Then she called 'Ris in to join us and gave us more instructions about the shallow dive.  We start out and down, equalizing the pressure in our ears frequently.  This is SOOO cool!  I'm really starting to enjoy it, but 'Ris is having a very hard time with her ears.  She just can't get below 10 or 12 feet comfortably...bummer!  I'm not having ear trouble, but I seem to be having some trouble bleeding enough air out of the BC to go down very far.  Oh, well, we need to stick together anyway...  I did see an eel and numerous other fish, but I REALLY want to get down there with them!!  After about 15 min (guessing) we head back to shore.

Wow...no doubt about it.  I'm going to do more of this, and soon!!  By the time we have the gear off and rinsed, I've made up my mind that the next time I'm in Coz, I'll be doing an Open Water referral!!!  Marissa enjoyed it, but I think she's pretty disappointed with the whole ear thing.  Anyway, time to settle our account and head back to Alicia's for showers and a nap!

I snoozed for a short while and then decided to sit on the patio with a book and a cerveza.  Here come Brad and Cassie...they've had a good morning of diving.  They ask me if I would like to join them at Dzul Ha...are you kidding?  One of my favorite places!  I ask Alicia to tell Marissa where I've gone and that we'll be back by dark.

Allison is waiting for us when we get there and we have some snacks, beers, etc.  Then Brad and I do some snorkeling.  There were TONS of fish and Brad is a good snorkeling buddy.  I'm guessing that's because he's a diver and has seen lots more up close and personal.  He pointed out so many things that I have probably missed a hundred times.  

About 5 o'clock, we head back to town to get ready for the evening.  The rest of the gang is going to meet up at Havana Club and I'll join them there for a drink later.  Marissa had taken a taxi downtown to go the the internet cafe and do some shopping (one of the best things about Coz...it was perfectly safe for her to do that alone)  By the time she got back, I was ready to go to dinner.

We found a small restaurant on 10th ave, a couple blocks south of the square, Luna Maya.  A simple cafe, good selection on the menu and great sangria!!  'Ris and I share a plate of fish fajitas that were wonderful.  With one drink each, our total bill was 130 pesos.  Another place I'll go back to!  Just as we are finishing our dinner, we look out and its pouring again!!  And guess what?  The top is down on the bug...again!  We just look at each other, laugh and say "we're taking a cab!"

Outside we only have to wait a minute or so for a taxi.  I have him drop 'Ris at Sr Frogs and then take me to Havana Club.  Allison, Brad, and Cassie are there...and Nick F too!  I order another one of their delicious Cosmopolitans and enjoy the company of other adults for a while!  Everyone starts to head in different directions and by now the rain has stopped so I decide to walk down to Frogs to see what 'Ris is up to.

What else?  Dancing her feet off, as usual!  For some odd reason, about 1:30 Senior Frogs is chasing everyone out.  They are usually open until 3, and there was a good crowd there, so something must have happened.  Not sure what.  Anyway, we start to walk back to the car and a couple of guys we had danced with asked us if we wanted to go to Viva Mexico for a while.  Sure...why not?  We have to walk right past it anyway!

There is definitely a more local crowd here and we really enjoyed watching them dancing.  I've just got to learn more salsa!  Pretty soon the staff at Viva Mexico is chasing us out too!  Wow, it's what time?  Time for my comfy bed back at Alicia's!!!

Mr. Sanchos, Salsa and sunrise - Day 5 (3/7/02)

Waking up to beautiful days in Cozumel like this could get addicting....oh yeah, that's right...we ARE addicted!!  Chuco is making papas this morning, and the aroma gets me to the kitchen in a hurry!  Along with the usual fresh fruit, warm tortillas and the best guacamole ever, this has to be one of my favorite breakfasts!!  Marissa sleeps in a little, so she's going to have re-heat hers...lol!

We spend some time visiting on the front patio with Alicia and Chuco, and then pack up the beach bag to head to Mr. Sanchos.  We are greeted at the gate by Juan, a guy we met dancing last night, and he escorts us to a palapa and introduces us to our waiter, Muu. Dos pina coladas, por favor!

What a beautiful place!!  The grounds are lovely and the beach is just gorgeous!  It's not crowded today even though there are at least 4 cruise ships in town.  Most of the palapas and beach chairs are occupied, but the bar is only about 1/3 full and there is noone in the restaurant area.  

We order lunch, quesadillas for me, and chicken tostadas for 'Ris.  We could have split either dish and had plenty...and it was all delicious!  After a while, Marissa decides that she has to try the water trampoline.  She pays the $4 for the arm band and off she goes.  I wade out a ways with the camera to take pictures of her back flips and other acrobatics.  She said afterward that it was fun, but much harder than the yard trampoline because the water absorbs so much of the bounce.  

By the time she comes back to the palapa, I've pulled a beach chair into the shade and am settling in for a nice nap.  She opts to just lay her towel on the sand and soon she's out too.  This is wonderful!  I must have snoozed for an hour or so and then wandered along the beach taking pictures of the grounds and the beautiful jacuzzi.

When I get back to the palapa, Marissa is awake and we decide to head back to town.  We are meeting Angela for dinner and salsa tonite!!  On the way back to the car, we pick up a few gift items at the shops...able to get some decent prices on silver charms, wind chimes, etc.

Back at Alicia's we hurry to shower and dress.  We need to stop at the internet cafe to check/send messages and meet Angela for dinner by 7:15 or so.  It's a beautiful evening, and dinner on the sidewalk at Casa Denis is very nice.  Lots of choices on the menu, but Marissa and I both are tempted by the fresh grilled Mahi-Mahi on special tonite.  This proved to be a great choice!!  As we've found so many places, the portions are generous enough for sharing.

Ahh, now that we are stuffed, we need to walk a bit before trying to dance...lol!  We walk to Cafe Salsa and Angela introduces us to the owner and a couple of other acquaintances there.  What a nice place, especially the garden area in the back!!  It's open air, with lovely trees, flowers and a waterfall on one wall.

It's early yet; Salsa lessons will start about 9:30.  So we decide to walk a bit more.  Angela shows us some of the little boutiques that cater more to the locals.  There are still a few open and it's fun to browse.  But remember I said these shops are geared to the locals...at 5'10" 'Ris doesn't find much that will work for her!!  

When we get back to Cafe Salsa, a small crowd is starting to gather and we meet the instructor.  The class starts with about 12 people, but soon grows to about 20 or more.  The dance floor isn't that large, so we kind of take turns practicing the basic steps we've been taught.  The lessons last about an hour with recorded music and then the band starts for open dancing.

We take a break for a bit and pretty soon in walks our friend Juan and another friend of his, Roberto.  Then Brad, Cassie and Susan join us, but we can't convince them to Salsa!  Next time, right guys?  We stay there maybe another hour, dancing and watching some of the locals who are VERY good at Salsa!  They all seem to just flow, really feeling the music...amazing to watch!

Angela has to work in the morning, so we say good night to her and head for the car.  And guess where WE are going??  It's only a little after 11, we CAN'T call it a night yet!!  Our waiter friends greet us warmly at Senor Frogs as usual, and we spend the next several hours dancing and even practicing some of the Salsa steps we had just learned.  

By the time the club is closing, Marissa has met some other spring breakers and a few locals who have invited us to join them for a late night snack and a trip to the beach near Playa Azul to watch the sunrise.  Are you kidding??  Nope!!!  Come on Mom...we're on vacation and we can sleep in tomorrow!  (At least I'm being invited...I can chaperone that way, right?)

I have to admit, it was a very beautiful evening...millions of stars, a gentle breeze, and a calm sea.  As the sky starts to lighten in the east, the crowd begins to break up.  We say our goodbyes and head back to Alicia's, trying to be VERY quiet letting ourselves in the gate.  Oh-uh, busted!!!  Chuco is already up!...lol!  

Oh well, it's been lots of fun, and Marissa is right...we ARE on vacation and we CAN sleep in!!

Saying farewells...Days 7 & 8 (3/9-10)

Saturday, Mar 9 -
We have been blessed with yet one more beautiful morning in Cozumel.  It’s our last one here at Alicia’s, so we set our alarm to be sure NOT to miss breakfast!  Chuco has made omelets stuffed with cheese, tomato and onion…this was certainly worth getting up for!!  How am I going to start my days without warm tortillas and fresh guacamole??  

Since we have a 10:45 am flight out of Cancun tomorrow, we are headed to Playa this afternoon to spend the night there.  Marissa’s ear is still bothering her after the diving attempt and she’s got a bit of a sore throat.  So after breakfast, she decides to go back to bed for a while.  I pack up my stuff and get ready to run some last minute errands.

First stop is the Pemex to fill the gas tank on the Bug.  Then the strangest thing happens…as I leave the station, the VW turns East onto the cross island road instead of back into town.  I just have to take one more drive around and back!!   Time to reflect on the wonderful week I’ve shared with my girl, while enjoying the sights and sounds of this wild side of the island.

Headed back up the road to town, I decide to stop in at Mr. Sancho’s for a beer and to say farewell to our friend Juan.  It’s about 11 am and very quiet here yet…I think there’s only one cruise ship in port today, so that may be part of it.  Soon I’m back on the road…next stop Chedraui.  Have to pick up a couple wish-list items for some folks back home….one bottle of Xtabentun and one of a special tequila.  Then I walk over to the internet café to check for any messages and to a note to Mark confirming our flight times, etc.  For future reference, this café is cheaper ($3 US/hr) than the Coffee.net ($5 US/hr) and seems to have good fast service!

Back at the B&B, Marissa is up and packing, feeling a little better.  Chavita is pouting…again!  (I think we all are…lol!)  Then it’s time for a few last minute pictures, hugs, promises to keep in touch…all those same sad moments when you are leaving family for a while.  But we’ll be back…count on that!

Turning in the car at Executive goes smooth…everything checks out fine, I pay cash (less than $180 total for six days) and get my credit card slips back.  If we hurry, we can make the 2 pm ferry.  ‘Ris has to make a quick stop at the pharmacy to buy a bottle of hand lotion for Blanca, the woman who braided her hair.  She is delighted with the gift, and tells Marissa to be sure to look her up next time!!

We’re just in time to board the ferry and all too soon Cozumel is slipping away from us.  Sigh…  Luckily, the crossing is smoother today and easier on Marissa’s stomach.  We are on one of the fast boats and in less than 30 minutes are docking in Playa.  Next, we have to find our way to Hotel Alejari.  It’s not hard to find…up to 5th Ave, north about 3 blocks, then down a block or so right to the beach!  Hmmm…looks pretty nice for under $50/night, including breakfast.  Beautiful garden walkways lead back to our room, which is spacious and very clean.  So far so good….uh-oh, the air conditioner doesn’t seem to work.  Well, the ceiling fan works… but it only seems to have two speeds…Off and Warp 6!!!  LOL!  What the heck, it’s only one night…we can deal.  There’s a mini fridge and a TV, and a swan fashioned out of the bathtowels on the bed.  Nice touch!

We’re both ready for a nap and stretch out for a while.  Guess we were pretty beat, ‘cause it’s 6:30 before we wake up!!  So much for exploring the beach before dinner!   So we walk back up to 5th Ave and start exploring some of the shops.  Neither one of us is all that hungry, so we decide to just grab a sandwich at McDonalds before doing some more shopping.  Most of the prices are good here, but it’s such an entirely different atmosphere than Coz…just not the same easy smiles or friendly, fun conversations with shopkeepers, and other visitors.  

Time for one last sangria at Sr Frogs before we call it a night?  Why not!  Maybe that will make us feel better?   They find us seats on the balcony outside.  The waves are gently rolling in under our feet and the lights of Coz are on the horizon.   So much for feeling better…lol!  We finish our drinks and walk back to the hotel to get some sleep.  It’s going to be an early morning anyway.  When we checked in earlier, I arranged for a van/shuttle to the airport at 7 am.  $15 pp and they’ll pick us up right out front…not too bad.

Sunday, Mar. 10 –
I asked for a 6 am wake up…and sure enough, there’s a knock on the door right on time!  I let Marissa sleep for a while, grab the camera and go for a walk down the beach. Wow, what a sunrise!  Really incredible…I’m shooting pics like mad before the light changes  the effect.  I must have walked a half mile, passing one hotel after another.  The only other people I see are a couple other tourists also taking pictures and a few locals preparing nets and gear for the morning fishing.  Time to turn around and get back to the hotel…bummer!

Our van shows up right on time, and just as we turn onto the highway it starts to rain.  By the time we arrive at the airport, it’s a pretty good downpour.  Check in goes fine and we’re at the gate by 8:30.  Time to grab a quick bagel and wait until time to board.  Our flight is scheduled to depart at 10:45 and is only a few minutes late.  Another smooth 3 ½ hour flight and we’re back in Mpls…where it’s about 22 degrees and yesterday’s ice storm has made a mess of things!  Still, it’s good to be home and when we see our guys waiting for us with flowers in hand, we can smile again!

It’s been an amazing, wonderful week.  We’ve met new friends, shared new experiences and made so many memories to cherish.  Personally, I'm very honored that Marissa chose this trip with me as a graduation gift.  I'm not sure she knows what a gift it was for me as well. And the very best part is that we’ll be back in Cozumel someday, and there will be more friends to meet and more memories to be made!   There’s already talk of a family trip in the next year or so…(hey, we can’t leave the guys at home EVERY time!)

Happy travels!

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