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Cozumel Trip Report
Posted by Ann on 03/03/01

Here goes....Day 1 (2/23)

Actually, the adventure began on Thursday evening when we met up with Tim and Susie on the way to Mpls.  Second trip to Coz for Mark and I, first time out of the U.S. for Tim and Susie.  We've been planning for months and looking forward to a wonderful relaxing week in the sun.  

Getting out of the car, I realized that my purse containing most of our travel cash and my driver's license was at home on the counter.  (Think I was a little anxious to get on the road?)  So my loving husband said..."Stay here, I'll be back in 45 min!"  Suddenly, Susie realizes that when she was cleaning out her wallet, she accidentally put HER license in the "leave at home" pile.  She and I told Tim "Stay here, wait for Mark, we'll meet you at the hotel!"  I know, I know, this doesn't sound like a good start, right?  Believe me, it does get better!!!

Friday morning, up at 4, shuttle to HHH at 4:30, get through check-in and board the plane and we're really on our way to Coz.  Smooth flights and a few "warm-up" cocktails on the way and before we knew it, we were landing at CZM.

Alicia and Chuco were there to meet us with smiles and warm Holas.  Got to the B&B and got settled in, visited a bit.  Called Alamo and Freddie came to pick us up to get our car.  We had reserved a Bug, but they only had a Tracker at the time.  Freddie said he'd call us when they got a Bug, but we ended up with the Tracker for the entire week, which was just fine with us!  Same price, and with Tim being 6'2", climbing over the back of the Tracker was easier than into the back of a Bug I'm sure.

The B&B is lovely, and Alicia and Chuco soon become like family.  Of course, Chavita, the Princess of Cozumel had to inspect our bags and find the one with the MilkBones!  Alicia gave us directions to El Moro, and off we went to enjoy a wonderful first dinner in Coz.  The raves I've read about the shrimp-on-a-wire are all true!!After dinner, we drove downtown, wandered around the square a while, before heading back for a good night's rest.

Tomorrow, the lighthouse and a taste of the East side...

Day 2 in Paradise (2/24)

Woke up to the smell of fresh coffee drifting in from the patio and aromas of our first of Chuco's marvelous breakfasts coming from the kitchen.  Who could stay in bed??  There was a shower during the night, but the sun is shining now!

Over breakfast we meet Valerie and Don from BC, Canada.  Mayan scrambled eggs, tortillas, fresh fruit and guacamole and great company!!

After breakfast, we head south on the new road and make our first stop at the Paradise Cafe.  They are just bringing in the days supplies, so we take a walk along the beach and take in the beauty of a pounding surf.  About 20 min later, the bar is open and we grab a cold cervesa and just enjoy the scenery for a while.

We decide to go the Punta Sur lighthouse park.  Good choice!  $10 a head to get in and well worth it.  Drove up to the interpretive center and parked the Tracker.  Took a look around there while we waited for the "bus" to the lighthouse.  The bus is really a flatbed truck with a doubledeck open air box.  Of course, we sat up top and had a great view of the ocean on the left and the jungle and lagoons on the right.  Lots of birds and the occasional road hazard iguana to see.

At the lighthouse, we climbed to the top.  It's really a one-lane winding staircase, can be a little tricky when the traffic is going both directions!!  The view from the top is breathtaking and we shot a few pics and a panoramic video.  Then it's back down, around and around, to the ground where the next bus is waiting to take us on the far end of the park.

The road continues through the jungle to an observation tower that overlooks a large lagoon.  For an add'l $5 you can take a pontoon tour of the lagoon, but we decide to pass on that and spend some time playing on the gorgeous beach across the road.  Another good choice!  Very calm, gentle waves and white sand.  Perfect chance to cool off before heading back to the park entrance.

We made another stop after the lighthouse to see the crocodiles.  There's a walkway out toward the lagoon, and if you look a bit you can see six to ten crocs, sunning themselves or lying just under the surface of the water.  

Back to the Tracker and on up the East side.  We all decide that we're ravenous, so we stop for lunch at Coconuts.  What a view! and good food too!  After lunch, we decided to head back to the B&B for a siesta.

Enjoyed some of the parade, explored some shops and headed for Costa Brava for a late dinner.  Miguel was a riot!  When we passed by earlier in the evening, he tried to entice us in, but we weren't ready to eat yet.  So, he gave us a card on which he wrote his name and 10% off!  Of course, we'd be back!!

The seafood platter at Costa Brava is unbelievable!  I think we should have ordered one for the four of us to share and it would have been enough.  After dinner Miguel insisted that we have a round of tequila slammers, after which Mark and Tim insisted that he join us for one.  What a character! When we finally left, he gave us the discount card back and said "Come again!"

Whew!  It's been a busy day and we're all ready to call it in...another perfect day!

Day 3 - Snorkeling and being lazy (2/25)

We're up again at 7:30 (which for all four of us is sleeping in!) After a cup of coffee on the patio, we join Don and Valerie from breakfast and discuss our plans for the day. This morning Chuco has made eggs over easy on fried tortillas, topped with his "secret sauce." More fresh fruit and guac...delicious!

Off to San Francisco market to stock up our cooler with cervesas, water and ice. Then we drove out to Dzul Ha, stake a claim on a palapa and get ready to put our faces in the water! It's the first time snorkeling for Tim and Susie, and it took the usual 30 seconds to make them addicts! We stayed out for a while, seeing quite a few fish, then took a break. Had a snack and rested up for round two.

While we were eating we met a great couple, Keith and Beverly, from Wisconsin. They had just come in on Saturday and filled us in on the "lovely" weather we had just missed back home. They had almost a two hour delay getting out of Mpls just 24 hours after we left there. Oh, it's good to be in Mexico!!

Spent a couple hours visiting with Keith and Beverly and just relaxing. Then, back in the water for more snorkeling! Headed N this time and let the current take us back S. Saw more fish this time, angels, flounder and a HUGE parrotfish. (Hope that pic turns out)

About 4:30 we all decide a siesta would be nice, so it's back to Alicia's. After a nice nap and a shower, we jump back in the Tracker and go downtown. It's Sunday, and Carnival, so the square is especially busy. What great people watching!!

Tonite it's the French Quarter for dinner. My husband is a BBQ ribs lover, so he's anxious to try the famous baby backs. I had Mahi Mahi, Susie tried the crabmeat au gratin, and Tim had the seafood platter. Everything, including the service, was wonderful and I guarantee none of us left hungry!!

I think the snorkeling and sun are catching up with all of us, as I notice a few yawns and sleepy looks. Time to call it a night...

Fishing tomorrow!!

Day 4 - A fishing adventure (2/26)

We're up a little earlier this morning.  Chuco had been kind enough to call a friend to set up a fishing trip for us and we are to meet Memo at the caleta at 9 am.  Another delicious breakfast a la Chuco - Mayan french toast!

We say goodbye to Don and Val who are leaving today for a week on the mainland.  And we meet the four new guests who arrived from MN last night.  Turns out that Jim, Dawn, Kyle and Chrissy don't live too far from Tim and Susie!

When Mark mentions to Jim and Kyle that we're going fishing their eyes light up and it's set...they'll go with us!!  Because we just have the Tracker, Mark makes two trips to get us all to the caleta.  We're all there, find Memo and his mate Cesar, board the boat and away we go!

We trolled south a long ways and end up just out from the Punta Sur beach we enjoyed on Sat.  No luck trolling.  We did have one hit, but missed the fish.  

Now we settled in to bottom fish with heavy line, a weight and a baited hook.  Cesar dropped my line in, showing me how to let it out hand over hand.  All of a sudden he gives it a jerk, hands me the line and says "Pull it up!"  I landed the first fish...a 'banana fish' which soon turned into bait, lol!

For the next several hours we drifted out, moved back in to shallower water, drifted back out, catching quite a nice assortment of fish - beautiful bright orange groupers, another variety of grouper, a few grunts, and some very impressive trigger fish!!

Everyone on the boat caught fish, and if someone wasn't having any luck, Cesar jumped in to help.  We decided that he was truly the master angler of the party!  

We caught more than enough fish to take back to the B&B, where Chuco had promised to prepare our catch for dinner.  We also sent plenty home with Memo and Cesar, who seemed to have as much fun as we did!

Mark was beginning to feel (and look) a bit "green around the gills," and we had plenty of fish, so we headed back.  We trolled on the way back, but again no luck.  Our captain and first mate prepared us a lunch of sandwiches, offered cold drinks, etc. on the return trip.  

Once the lunch was over, they took turns operating the boat and cleaning the fish.  By the time we were back to the caleta, the filets were bagged and ready to go.  Mark got to feeling better and by the time we docked in the caleta, he was fine.  

We settled up with Memo and Cesar, and Mark started the Tracker shuttle back to the B&B.  Chuco worked his culinary magic and by the time we were showered and dressed, dinner was ready!  And what a treat it was - incredible doesn't begin to describe it!

Tonite we go downtown, walk off a bit of our dinner and decide to brave the crowd at Carlos & Charlie's!  We got a table up front overlooking the street, so we had fresh air and a prime location for people watching inside and out.  A few rounds of cocktails later, we've had enough, so while we can still safely drive we head back home and to sleep...very soundly!  lol

Oh, a personal side note...before C&C's, we went back to a jewelry store where we'd spotted a ring a few days earlier.  My darling husband bought it for me as an early gift in celebration of our 20th anniversary this June.  Guess I'll keep him!  :-)

Day 5 - Fat Tuesday! (2/27)

Starting everyday waking up to bright sunshine, coffee outdoors followed by Chuco's cooking is getting to be a habit that all of us can live with!! This morning its seasoned fried potato patties topped with more of the mystery sauce! (I don't think Susie ever did get the recipe...lol!)

Today we are going to torture our co-workers, friends and family back home in the land of ice and snow. We had given them instructions to check the webcam at high noon! So Mark and I make a quick run to San Francisco market to buy a magic marker and see if we can talk them out of a couple pieces of cardboard. Then it's back to Alicia's to start making signs. We spend some time visiting at the B&B and thanking Chuco again for last night's dinner!

Armed with signs that say "HOLA MN" and "SNOW MUCH?" we head downtown, find a parking place and walk to the Calling Station. After a few minutes to figure out where we have to stand to be "on camera" we position ourselves, hold up the signs, and create quite the curiosity for the next ten min or so!!

There are at least 5 cruise ships in port today and with Carnaval going on, the sidewalks are nearly impassable! Back on the side streets, various dance groups are cruising around, music playing, stopping occasionally to dance in the middle of the street. It's crazy! and wonderful!!

We all agree that some lunch is in order, so we head to Las Palmas, a little place we discovered last year. Just a small family operated loncheria where you can get a huge plate of fajitas for about $3 US. Wouldn't you know it, they are closed today because of the festivities...rats!! (Never did make it this trip, but you can bet we will next time!)

We decide on La Choza a couple block away instead. After a good lunch, it's time for siesta. Want to get rested up to brave the crowds and enjoy the big parade tonite. Wow, did we crash! It was almost 6 when we woke up, so it was quick showers, dress and head back downtown by 7.

The parade was well underway and we caught the first floats on their way back south along Melgar. The costumes and floats are beautiful beyond belief. We are amazed at the time and effort that has gone into the preparation. I did get some great pics and will try to post some soon!!

After some time people watching on the plaza, we enjoy a late dinner at Villa Blanca near the southeast corner of the square. The food was good, including the Mantaray tacos Tim tried. And they make a mean banana daquiri, right Susie?

We're trekking to Tulum in the morning, so we don't stay out too late. Back to Alicia's for another restful night. Boy, our days are slipping away too quickly...

Day 6 - Tulum (2/28)

Our plan was to catch the 8 am ferry, but hey, we're on vacation...we'll just take the 9 o'clock instead!  Another cup of coffee on the patio and another of Chuco's breakfasts and we're out the door.

The ferry ride to Playa is smooth and we walk right to the bus station, get tickets on the 10:20 premium bus to Tulum.  The premium bus has air conditioning and onboard movies and a  restroom, and for $5 per person roundtrip, well worth it!  We make two short stops at Xel-Ha and Xcaret on the 40 minute drive and here we are!

We take time for bano breaks and a quick look around some of the vendor booths.  Then we head toward the road to the ruins and suddenly we hear music.  Looking up we see five men in native Mayan costumes atop a very tall pole.  One sits directly on top, the other four are seated on arms that extend out.  The entire top begins to turn and the four guys are suddenly hanging by their knees and then start to swing out on ropes that slowly lower them to the ground.  Just before they touch the ground, they turn right-side-up and land safely!  An interesting performance and worthy of some pics and video.  Afterward they pass a basket for tips, of course!

Time to see the ruins...pay $3 per person, plus $3 to take our video recorder inside.  You can hire a guide, but we decided to just explore on our own.

We pass through the opening in the wall and get our first view of the area - breathtaking!  And when we reached the ocean side of the area and took in the view of the ocean below, we were just amazed by the beauty of it.  Tulum's position on the cliffs was undoubtably more strategic than aesthetic...but we're sure that even the ancient Mayans must have appreciated that incredible view!

Many of the structures have interpretive signage that really helps you understand the purpose and function of the buildings.  It's obvious that there is a strong religious meaning in the construction of the entire fortress.  We spend an hour or so, just wandering the grounds.

Even with the breeze off the ocean, it is plenty hot.  There's not alot of shade to be found, and that beach is looking mighty inviting.  So we find a place to climb down the cliffs and enjoy an hour or more playing in the surf on that gorgeous beach.  Refreshed and getting a little hungry, we climb back up the cliff and head for the vendors near the bus stop.

Our tickets are for a 4 pm return bus to PDC, so we spend some time bargaining with shop owners for miscellaneous items, have a snack and a couple beers and walk out to the bus stop.  Reclining seats and air conditioning on the bus are welcome amenities and the ride back was a good opportunity for a nap!

We arrived back in Playa del Carmen and just missed the 5 pm ferry; so it's time for more shopping, a daquiri at Senor Frog's and we catch the 6 o'clock!

Back at Alicia's, we take time to visit with Alicia and Chuco for a bit.  Then we shower and get ready to go out for dinner.  It's Prima tonite...one of Mark's and my favorites from last year.  Being that it's about 8:30, there's no wait for a table.  The food and service are great as we remembered and we all leave so full we can hardly move!!  (After this week, my scale and I will not see each other for at least two weeks...by that time, if it reads the same as before I left, I will spare it from the garbage collector!  lol)

Another stroll around the plaza and we're ready to call it a day (another very good day!).  Tomorrow is our last full day on the island and we're due for more snorkeling and some time on the east side!

Day 7 - The East side (3/1)

We awake again to another perfect, beautiful Cozumel morning. Breakfast this morning is Mayan scrambled eggs and fresh tortillas, with fruit and more of Chuco's guacamole (how am I going to survive without this stuff?).

After a stop at Chedraui to stock the cooler, we go across the street to Plaza Las Glorias. We rent snorkel gear from Aqua Safari and get ready to put our faces in the water! Mark and I spent a morning snorkeling here last year and saw thousands of fish, but are a little disappointed this time. Still, there are fish and coral to see, and when some folks come out on the pier with some bread, the fish just swarm us!! An hour or so here, and we are ready to move on.

Out of the water, I notice a strange deep burning and a few small welts on the back of my right calf. Hmmm...I'm suspicious that a jellyfish (there were a few here) is the culprit, but it's nothing I can't live with and a few hours later, it's nearly gone.

Earlier in the week, Don had told us that he had done some good snorkeling at Palancar, so that's our next stop. But when we get there, the gates are closed and the guard tells us "esta cerrado." Not sure what's up with that, but we'll find somewhere else.

We turn back north a bit and make a stop at a roadside shop to see what kind of deal we can "swing" on a couple hammock chairs. Jose started at $45 a piece, but Susie worked on him a bit and we got two for $60...not too bad. (Now I'm waiting for warm enough weather here to enjoy it!)

Nachi Coccom is just down the road, so we decide to take a look around. Guess who's here? Keith and Beverly that we met at Dzul Ha on Sunday! Had a nice visit with them and played in the water a while...not much for snorkeling here, but the beach is beautiful and the club is very nice.

Time to move on again...on down the coast and on to the East side. We take a photo stop at El Mirador and explore the shoreline there a while. By now we're getting hungry, so we decide to go to Mezcalito's for lunch. Susie and I share a plate of mixed fajitas, Mark has the shrimp kabob and Tim has a seafood plate. And of course, we have a few of the famous margaritas!

The surf is much calmer today than it was on Saturday, so we hang out here for a while. Didn't try to swim, but did play in the waves for an hour or so. Susie buried Tim in the sand...their four kids will LOVE those pics!

It's near 5 o'clock and we have to return the snorkel gear to PLG, so we head back there, turn in the stuff and walk out on the pier to enjoy our last Coz sunset. Then back to Alicia's for showers and fresh clothes.

It's Thursday, but by the time we get to the Minigolf it's almost 8. Sally says that there have been a few Travelnotes board readers thru off and on, but no real meeting tonite anyway. We had brought a box of treats for Sunshine and so gave her one, ordered drinks and played a round on this absolutely beautiful course! Very relaxing and enjoyable. Tim won the round, but Your's Truly even got a hole in one!!

Heading back to the Tracker, it was decided that a snack was in order. Believe it or not, we're kind of craving a hamburger! It's kind of late, so we decided to stop at Las Palmeras. Nothing really to rave about, but not too bad for this kind of snack.

Back to Alicia's for another good night's rest. Feeling the "we have to leave tomorrow blues setting in..."

Day 8 - Time to go home (3/2)

Chuco has made empanadas this morning...tortillas stuffed with potatoes, sausage, or cheese and fried just right..mmm-mmm! I start to wonder if he'd fit in my suitcase? (Just kidding Alicia!!) We just know we'll have to come back here again...the sooner, the better!

Lots of scurrying around, packing our bags, checking under the beds, etc... and a kind of sad quiet. Chavita comes in for her morning treat and then retreats to her chair on the front patio so she doesn't have to watch us pack.

We have to return the Tracker to Alamo, so we go downtown, Freddie checks it over, we pay in cash and get our credit card slips back. Smooth sailing!

Tim has had his eye on a pair of boots all week, so they head to the leather shop to see if they can make a deal. Seems they are successful and end up getting two beautiful alpaca teddy bears in a package deal with the boots! (That Susie is a tough bargainer...lol!)

There are lots of cruisers in town again today; shops are busy, sidewalks are crowded. We do some other last minute shopping and then catch a cab to the B&B to say our goodbyes.

Time to write a note in Alicia's guest book, lots of hugs and and handshakes, and some tears. We have a 1:30 flight, and it's 11:45, so we go out to 65th to try to catch a cab. With four of us and quite a bit of luggage, this took a while! lol. Finally, a cabbie stops and we squeeze our bags in the back, jump in and in about 5 min, we're at the airport.

Check-in goes smoothly and we just wait for them to give us the boarding call. The flight to Dallas-Fort Worth is smooth and uneventful, but unfortunately we have to sit on the plane on the ground for an hour and forty minutes before we can get up to a gate to go through customs!! Once we get to the gate, they really hustle us through customs and in about 30 min we're boarding again and off to Mpls.

Our flight was scheduled to get in at 7:15 and ended up getting in at 8:15. All things considered, not too bad! Time to say goodbye to Tim and Susie and head home to see our kids.

It's been a wonderful week and it's hard to see it end...but we all agree that it won't be our last trip to Cozumel, the island Paradise! Please bear with me for a moment to share a special personal note?

Last May, we were at Tim and Susie's for their daughter, Jessi's Confirmation. Susie's mom was there and we were talking about taking this trip together. The last thing her mom said to me when she gave me a hug goodbye was..."make sure they do this." Two months later, Marylou suffered a heart attack and Susie lost her mom. I kept my promise, and it was a time that will always be extra special for all of us.

Peace to all... and happy travels!

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