Alan (aka Dad), Lynette (aka Mom), Nathan (aka Nate, son, age 15), Emily (aka
Em, daughter, age 12)
Background:
Previous trip to Coz back in ’95, an eternity ago. Mom/dad only.
7 days, stayed at El Presidente. Got lucky with a beachfront room
at run-of-house rate. Best vacation ever. Vowed to return…way
too long in coming.
Prologue:
Spur of the moment trip developed 3 wks prior to departure when I found
Northwest Airlines frequent flyer seats available for 4 people wk of 3/9-16.
Next step, would there be a good lodging option? Had checked out
condos on Travelnotes prior. Inquired and Alex/Jidan got back
immediately with ideas. Cantamar Condo #202 was available and fairly
reasonable. Looked great on web…booked it. Turned out to be
fantastic. Excitement builds…kids can’t wait. Both speak
Spanish (they’ve both been enrolled in a partial Spanish immersion program
since 1st grade). We have to pull them out of school for the week.
Not a problem as far as they are concerned!! We book some tanning
sessions and hit the electric beach. Anticipation is half the fun.
Pre-trip, Fri. 3/8:
Planned to get to Mpls airport early Saturday (flight leaves 9:30). But
now they have issued a winter storm warning for tonight/Saturday. Shift
gears and decide to get a motel close to airport for Fri. night and leave the
car at an off-site lot so we won’t risk putting in the ditch on Saturday
a.m. We find a reasonable room near the Mall of America. Now we
have to compress our “leisurely” packing plans into a couple of hours.
Mom/dad fly around the house stuffing suitcases. Boy I hope we
don’t forget something major. We grab the kids after school and head
up. Everyone’s excited, as our vacation actually seems to be starting
early. Grab supper at Mall of Am., get a couple of extra books for beach
time at Barnes and Noble, set the alarm for 5 a.m. and try to get to sleep.
Coz here we come!
Saturday, 3/9, Day 1:
Everyone up and showered. We look outside to see a decent snow/ice storm
underway. Car doors are almost frozen shut, but I’ll break the glass
if I have to! Very windy, snowy and icy, temps in the 20’s and
falling. Drive to the Park ‘n Go, leave the car and jump into a
waiting shuttle. Dumb move…in our rush we forget to jettison our heavy
coats in the car. Now we have to find room for them in our luggage.
Oh well, minor details.
Into the airport in plenty of time. We get seat assignments and are
subject to every possible inspection/search. They even pull my wife and
son out of the boarding line to search their carry-ons (yeah, they really look
like terrorists). Patience! Up to the gate to wait. It’s
snowing pretty good now, but our flight is still on schedule. We board
at around 9. By now the snow is coming down and the wind is whipping so
bad you can’t see the runway. Wait in line to de-ice…no air
conditioning as we sit. Hour and 45 mins behind schedule but it’s
finally wheels up. We found out later we just made it out. The
airport cancelled 80 flights that day!!!
Uneventful flight and we’re on the ground in Coz by 3:30. We step out
into mid-80’s, sunshine and that wonderful tropical air I remember so well.
Excitement level off the charts for all. Into the airport and
through customs, no prob. Then we wait for our luggage. First 3
pieces arrive quickly. Then we wait. And wait. And wait.
Mom and Dad's suitcase never shows…and we have NO Cozumel-weather
clothes packed in our carry-ons. Dumb. As we fill out paper work,
our excitement level drops considerably. Nate and Em are concerned.
What happens now? I pull my wife aside and let her know that we
are NOT going to let anything ruin this trip. We’ll manage and we
cannot get stressed out over the situation and upset the kids. We rally.
The airport official helping us is great. We get copies of all the
paperwork and he gives us a name and number to call on Monday to check on the
situation. Will we ever see our stuff again? Of course as we move
toward the Red/Green lights I already know what awaits…that’s right, RED.
So we endure another round of inspections. Actually, since
everyone knew by then what had happened, they were almost embarrassed to have
to go through our things, so they make quick work of it (even more so than
usual) and we’re almost on our way.
A rep from the condo is holding up our name (Who else would we be? We’re the
only ones left!) and he gives us an envelope with directions, condo key, etc.
We catch a shuttle and although still flustered, we start to see our
vacation actually beginning in earnest.
Cantamar is just north of town and the airport. We’re dropped off and
make our way to #202. As we open the door we know we’ve made a great
choice. 2 bedrooms/2 baths. Very clean. Floor to ceiling
windows on the ocean side. Balconies off the master bedroom and living
room overlooking the pool and ocean. Satellite TV, full kitchen,
separate beds for the kids, well appointed (even a video library). A
small beach and a couple of palapas for shade. Snorkeling right in
front. Life is getting MUCH better. We’ve rented a VW Bug
convertible for the week. It’s dropped off soon after we arrive
(Marlin. I know others have said they’ve had probs with them. None
we can report. They treated us fine). Our Bug’s a bit
“rustic” with their trademark red/white striped canvas top. But it
runs and by the end of the trip, the kids think we should buy one.
We jump in and head out to find some clothes for mom/dad. It’s a
4-speed and it’s been about 5 years since I’d handled one. Tricky
clutch but only killed it once. I had a general idea of where to head
from the discussion board/map, so we attempt to find Chedraui. Lots of
traffic but we make it. The town has definitely changed in 7 years.
I’ve never seen so many jewelry stores in one place. Getting a
bit more Americanized (YUCK). Chedraui wasn’t here before either.
But boy are we glad it’s here today! Mom/dad each find a
swimsuit (Yikes! But they’ll have to do), pair of shorts, and other
absolute necessities so we can FINALLY ditch the blue jeans. But
I’ve got a feeling Northwest is going to be picking up the tab. Also
stock up on Sol, Dos Equis, groceries for breakfast, snacks, etc. Life’s
improving exponentially now! (Although I did find out that men’s sizes
run a little small in Mexico…Extra Grande was still a little tight!)
Back to the condo. Cold ones are opened. We change and hit the
balcony. The turquoise waters of the Caribbean are unreal. Our
kids are beside themselves. We can’t believe we’re finally back to
this fantastic island. Luggage? What luggage?
That evening we decide on La Choza, where we'd eaten last trip. Nate
negotiates the cab fare in Spanish (decide on taxis at night). The
margaritas are amazing (one would have been plenty…oh well, after the day
we’ve had ;) Guacamole to die for. Their chili/cheese dip
is great. We dig into the chips and dips. Nate has beef fajitas
(as the waiter sets them down he announces “Iguana Fajita” which earns a
chuckle), Mom/Em split chicken fajitas and dad has the grilled garlic shrimp.
Food is inhaled. We vow to return.
We stroll back through the plaza. Dad grabs a cigar and we head back to
the condo. We sit on the balcony enjoying the sound of the waves,
looking at the southern stars as a gentle tropical breeze melts away the last
of the winter we left behind. A great vacation is in front of us and we
all look forward to enjoying and sharing the experience together.
Trip Report Day 2, Sunday, March 10:
Sleep in? Not on your life. Mom and dad are up before 7:30. Last
trip we arrived late at night and we always recall how excited we were the
first time we opened up the drapes to see the otherworldly colors of the
ocean. So we enjoy throwing back the curtains to the same magnificent
view today. Soon we’re on the balcony with juice and pastries watching
the morning boat traffic go by. It’s a partly cloudy and wonderfully
warm a.m. with a nice breeze from time to time. The kids also
arise early (now THAT’S unusual) as they don’t want to sleep all day and
waste any Coz time.
Dad’s the first to hit the beach. We all eventually stake out our
spots. We’ve agreed this will be a beach day (first of many). Nate
and Em spot Salina, the Condo cat, and give her some TLC. As best we can
determine, her only task in life is to spend her days power lounging at
various locations around the condo including poolside on some cushions,
sprawled out in the warm sand, under the shade of the palapas, etc. Where
do I get that job?
We brought snorkel gear for everyone with us. Managed to borrow some
pretty good equipment from relatives and friends. Only had to buy
fins for Em, so it’s a small investment for the fun we receive in return.
Dad hits the water first and then for the first time, so do the kids.
There’s a little more wave action today and so it’s tricky to get in
close to the coral near the shore, but the sea life is more than adequate here
to keep everyone in awe. Equal to the area in front of Presidente we
enjoyed last trip.
Mom and dad lack much of our belongings due to the lost suitcase. One
important item missing for dad is the sunglasses he uses when wearing
contacts. Memo: if you plan to beach it without sunglasses, be SURE to
put sun block on your eyelids. Memo 2: the sun finds every unprotected
spot…tops of feet especially. Dad pays a price later!
Dad’s emergency-purchased Chedraui swimsuit seems to have a lining made of a
Mylar-like material, the kind of stuff they use to make weather balloons.
The unavoidable size discrepancy in the wearer-to-suit ratio makes the
strength this material offers the wearer highly useful. But it also
prevents any true “relaxation” while wearing them. Plus in the warm
weather they stick to me like glue. It’s just lucky the beach and
condo complex is not very crowded for everyone’s sake! But considering
I could be in a down jacket shoveling snow, it’s a minor discomfort and one
that I’ll gladly endure. (Just hope those around me can!)
We alternate between sunning, reading and snorkeling for most of the day.
My wife adopts a “rotisserie” method for tanning, using her Mickey
Mouse watch to monitor the intervals between rotations and bastings. She
used to be a lifeguard and has this technique polished to perfection. Her
suit actually isn’t all that bad. Considering how tough it was for her
to choose one before we left (many modeling sessions and FedEx packages
later…), perhaps forced swimsuit shopping is the way to go. The kids
brought some homework along and yes, they even crack a book on the beach in
between dips in the pool. Not a discouraging word to be heard.
Late in the afternoon, we all shower and change. Mom and dad don’t
have to spend much time deciding on what to wear into town tonight, so
that’s one benefit of not having your luggage! (Although the kids
claim to already be sick of our clothes.)
We decide on Poncho’s Backyard for dinner. We’re close enough to
town to walk, and it’s such a great night so we do. Lots of locals
near the beach area just to the north of town. Must be their day to
play. We find the restaurant but need to grab more Pesos, so we hit an
ATM machine near the plaza and head back to Pancho’s.
We’re early and the only ones in the place. It’s a beautiful
open-air dining area and we’re seated next to the garden. Mom and dad
order Margaritas and the kids get some very good lemonade. We order an
appetizer of guac/chips and they bring us more chips and salsa. Best
guac we tasted all trip! Em orders a spaghetti dish with chicken and a
tequila-laced white sauce. Mom has spinach-almond stuffed chicken with a
poblano chili sauce. Nate has chicken enchiladas with a mole sauce and
dad has Carne Asada (beef strips marinated and grilled w/rice, 2 enchiladas,
beans and guac). All food was excellent although a little pricey. The
only negative occurs halfway through our meal when a large rat puts in an
appearance, running along a wall at the back of the garden. Another
couple gets up and leaves after this, but we’re already too far into our
meal so we try and pretend we didn’t see what we just saw. He looked
pretty well fed too! I guess that’s something to be expected around
town, especially given the many open-air restaurants and vendors that exist.
After supper we walk toward the plaza, browse some of the shops and wait for
fiesta to begin. Dad locates some Solarcaine at the Farmecia to treat
the souvenirs from this afternoon’s beach time. We watch some of the
activities on the plaza. Lots of kids games, locals, etc. We’re
home by 9. A little tired (from what?) so the kids wind down by
selecting “Young Frankenstein” from the video collection while mom and dad
enjoy the evening out on the balcony. We’re all in bed by 10:30.
Dad offers a prayer for deliverance from his swimsuit and drifts off to
sleep.
Trip Report Day 3, Monday March 11
We sleep in a bit longer today, 8:30 or so. Dad’s excuse for not being
up any earlier is that he didn’t actually realize it was daylight yet.
His eyes are so puffy from sunburned eyelids that he could pack his
meager belongings in the bags underneath his eyes and no one would notice
(well, maybe). He’s seeing through slits right now…a poster boy for
using sun block and sunglasses. Tops of his feet are mighty tender too.
My wife is giving me grief. She, the ex-lifeguard and tanning
expert. (“Tops of the feet are the worst. Don’t you know enough to
put sun block on them? That’s gonna hurt!”) Go ahead, make my
day. The kids roll on the floor when they get a look at my impression of
a red-faced raccoon. I switch to my remaining prescription sunglasses to
help limit the criticism/sarcasm and sulk off to the balcony for juice and
comfort food (donuts, etc.).
A bottle of eye drops and half a can of Solarcaine later, and dad’s able to
check out the day at hand. A few more clouds this morning, but it’s
showing signs of breaking up. It’s still gorgeous though with perfect
a.m. temps and a mild breeze. We can see two cruise ships have docked on
the north piers overnight, so downtown’s going to be busy today.
Our condo continues to work out great. We almost have the small man-made
beach area to ourselves. After dipping himself in suntan lotion, dad and
family hit the beach once again. Books are broken out, as are headphones
and CD’s.
Around 10 a.m., Luis the condo’s caretaker appears at the top of the stairs
to the beach and motions at dad to follow him (he speaks little English).
My heart is pounding as we walk up the stairs to our condo (NO not from
being out of shape, from the anticipation of what might await my puffy eyes).
AND YES!!! THERE IT IS IN FRONT OF OUR DOOR!! THE MISSING SUITCASE!!
I almost bend down and kiss Luis’ feet (except my Chedraui suit
probably would have exploded if I’d attempted that maneuver) and tears well
up in what used to be my eyes. Thank you God!
I don’t even bother to tell my wife…my first move is into the bedroom, out
of my Mylar-reinforced suit and into—AHHHHH—my blue print baggy Speedos.
Remember that old Alka Seltzer commercial? “Plop, plop, fizz,
fizz, oh what a relief it is?” That was me getting into my suit.
Anyway, at that point our trip hit Nirvana. Nothing from then on
was going to stand in our way of a fantastic vacation. And it didn’t.
Back at the beach, my wife casually glances up at me and notices somehow
I’ve been transformed from a squinty-eyed overstuffed burrito to a suave,
buff (well, maybe not quite that transformed) beach god. Actually, she
doesn’t recognize me. As I reintroduce myself, she realizes that our
suitcase and her complete beach wardrobe (that suitcase was heavy) somehow
miraculously must have reappeared. We embrace (severely embarrassing the
kids) and utter a few joyful sobs. Then it’s back to work and we begin
our rotisserie tanning session once again.
After awhile when I can manage to slip contacts between my cheeks and forehead
I do some more snorkeling. I’m seeing eels, skates, a ray, some
puffers, barracuda, angels, crabs, just all kinds of great stuff (lots of fish
that I know others could ID, but let me just say them’s some mighty purty
fish down there!). I’m certainly a novice compared to most and I’m not
nearly the swimmer my wife is, but I spend more time in the ocean paddling up
and down our condo beach area than anyone in our family and just couldn’t
get enough of it. The water temp was superb and clarity outstanding.
I love the sensation you get of hovering in “midair” over everything
below you…the water is so clear it’s like there’s nothing between you
and the bottom. What a wonderful creation Cozumel is. I hope we
aren’t stupid and ruin this too! (Hear that cruisers/developers?)
Back on terra firma, I sensibly confine myself to more shaded regions of the
beach and force fluids to help speed my sunburn recovery. I took Tut’s
advice and stocked up on Sol. Tip: I find that at the proper dosage, Sol
miraculously manages to aid in sunburn pain relief. Our kids are having
a blast (and actually getting along with each other superbly). They
alternate between pool, ocean and beach and take turns making runs into the
condo for pop and snacks. We had not done a vacation with them before
that mainly involved relaxing and we wondered if they’d be bored or not.
Our other trips have been power vacations (camping, hitting national
parks, Washington DC, lots of “things to do” each day, instead of huge
blocks of just goof-off time). But they seem to be into this big time
and already are talking about wanting to come back again. (Especially
now that their parents actually have a decent wardrobe and are less
embarrassing to be seen with.)
It’s now absolutely clear…about mid-80’s…a perfect “10” of a day
in Cozumel.
We realize that we’ve been here two days and have yet to see a patented Coz
sunset, so we vow to be prepared tonight. We shower up and change and
get ready for the show. (Gee, what should I wear tonight dear? Haven’t
heard that phrase uttered until now.) I’ve anticipated this moment
since our last trip. I’ve burned multiple CD’s with music made just
for Coz sunsets (I recommend Mexican artists like Ana Gabriel, Tania Libertad,
Luis Miguel, Juan Gabriel and others, or you can’t go wrong with Sinatra—“Summer
Wind” was MADE for Cozumel and sunsets—or some Ray Charles or Etta James.)
I even have some small battery powered speakers that plug into my
portable CD player so we can have tunes out on the balcony. Some wine
and tailor-made music in the background and the sun starts to put on its show.
Get this…there’s even a sailboat anchored just off shore in perfect
position to frame the sunset. Does not get any finer!!
We aren’t disappointed as we watch the sun begin to dip into the ocean.
Both of us are enjoying not just the sunset, but also the reactions of
our children as they experience this for the first time. We all slip
into silence as the sun meets the water and remain in an almost reverent state
as it completes its too-quick slide over the horizon. Everyone agrees
that we can’t miss another one of these the rest of the trip. Is there
any possible way to bottle this moment? Probably better that we can’t,
since this is one of the things that makes Cozumel so special.
The vote tonight is for seafood, so we head to El Capi Navigante. My son
negotiates the taxi fare again and now even wants to sit in front and pay the
driver too! This is big, since he’s usually pretty shy. But
he’s starting to feel more confident about speaking in Spanish and we love
to watch the transformation. We hoped this might happen on our trip too.
We’re seated right away, even though we didn’t have reservations (actually
this was the case all trip). After chips and salsa, dad orders seafood
soup (octopus, shrimp and conch) while mom gets their shrimp bisque. We
plan to share with our kids, but they’re a little reluctant about dad’s
choice. They each try a piece of octopus (or was that squid?)tentacle
and the reviews are mixed. But dad polishes it off and mom’s goes
quickly.
Nate orders breaded shrimp and Em has the grilled version of same, both
ordering in Spanish. The waiter is beaming. You can tell they are
so pleased when people make an effort to speak their native language. Mom
has squid (aka, calamari) rings in a beer batter and dad has the Mayan grouper
wrapped in banana leaves. All are very happy with their meals,
especially Nate. After dinner we want to show the kids a little
fireworks so we order Mayan coffee which is flamed several times tableside.
There is a great guitar player in the restaurant with a wonderful voice
and we get a nice rendition of La Bamba. (Wish they’d feel free to
play more ethnic Mexican songs…they apparently think everyone wants to hear
the “standards” that Americans think of as “Mexican music.”)
We cut short our time in town and head straight for a taxi. What a mess
in and around the Plaza. They’re working night and day, tearing out
street areas, jack hammering, pouring cement, etc. It appears they are
recreating this whole area with multiple fountains, fresh sidewalks and
walkways, etc. It is terribly dusty and difficult to get around in right
now, but it looks like it could be really nice when finished.
Back at the condo, we’re beat and everyone starts to nod off. But
it’s been a great day. Our suitcase made it and even though he’s
still a bit medium well-done in spots, dad is on the mend and feels he’s
mastered Intro to Sun Tanning 101 (that first exam was brutal). Everyone
sacks out to prepare for Tuesday when we plan on touring the east side for the
first time.
Trip Report Day 4, Tuesday March 12
Our daily morning ritual continues. Mom and dad area up before 8 today
and we move onto the balcony for juice, muffins and bananas and watch the
island wake up. There’s coffee today too as we picked some up
yesterday. The kids are enjoying “Choco Zucaritas” each morning, a
Mexican brand of cereal that’s sort of like chocolate frosted flakes. Nothing
like a good sugar buzz to set the tone for the day. Another beautiful
morning. We watch the dive and snorkel boats depart the nearby marina to
pick up their customers. Cruisers again docked at the pier…another
busy day in town.
Plans are to jump in the mighty Bug and head over to the east side of the
island today. After showers and liberal applications of suntan lotion
(I’ve learned my lesson well), we load up our cameras and jump in. We
head into town and dad starts to feel pretty cocky like he’s got the tricky
clutch and the manual transmission mastered. But it’s a zoo in San
Miguel with people running around, scooters, trucks and crazy taxi drivers and
mom (white knuckles and all) and the kids are still reserving judgment on my
competence for the moment. (Later as we accelerate out of town and I
think I’ve got them convinced I could tackle NASCAR, I blow it when, while
intending to shift out of third and into fourth, I dump us down into second,
causing the kids to nearly kiss the windshield from the back seat.)
We miss our turn and have to jog back north a ways to hit Ave Juarez, but then
we’re out of town and rolling. Top down, sun warm, partly cloudy and we’re
cruising. (At least the way cruising is defined when you’re in a Bug
from Marlin.) Despite their initial concerns about no seatbelts in the
back, Nate and Em are getting into the convertible life. They get a kick
out of the sign announcing the “Pee Pee Station” along the way. It’s
an easy drive on a relatively deserted road through jungle-like terrain and
soon we’re parked near Mezcalito’s and the beach.
Very unique and pretty here with rolling surf and nice sand, although some
areas unfortunately also come with quite a bit of trash. The kids are a
little uncomfortable when they spot the backside of a guy taking advantage of
Naked Beach, and later when I reflexively happen to blurt out some perfectly
innocent passing remark about a rather fetching topless girl I just happened
to accidentally catch a very brief glimpse of on another beach (which earned
me a punch in the arm from my wife…although the black-and-blue mark went
quite nicely with my sunburn…sort of patriotic-looking). I reminded
them “we’re not in Kansas anymore” and they seemed to understand. Or
at least they learned to turn away really fast. We walk the beach for a
while, and then continue our drive south, stopping occasionally to enjoy other
areas and the beauty of the ocean’s colors and surf. It’s totally
different on this side. I can’t believe how few people there are and
the level of development over here is almost nonexistent (OK, so maybe with a
couple of exceptions). We all agree that this is one of the highlights
of our trip so far. (That ocean stuff I mean.)
As the road begins to head to the west again, we turn around and reverse our
course back. It’s past noon now and we decide based on board
recommendations that we just have to eat lunch on this side. So we pick
Coconuts and stop. What a great spot. On a bit of a cliff
overlooking the ocean. Mom grabs a Sol, and dad a Margarita (they pack a
wallop) while the kids sip pop. We have guac/chips, salsa and an
appetizer of some wonderful chicken nachos. Then we split 2 orders of
shrimp quesadillas, which also are superb. Dad takes some videos and mom
snaps plenty of pictures. Let’s see, if I were back at the office
right now, I’d be doing….. Wonder if we could stay two weeks
next time?? (BTW, very nice banos!)
Stuffed, we head back to the Bug and toward our condo. It had clouded up
a bit around us and on the way home we could see where a shower had passed,
but not a drop fell on us during our day. We stop in town briefly.
Dad wants to sniff out some Cuban cigars and heads to Havana Club.
Now don’t get on me…I’m not a cigarette smoker and only
occasionally puff a fine cigar for those special times. This qualified.
Cigar Tip: my humble assessment is that even at the best shops,
you take your chances. I honestly do not believe there is an authentic
Cohiba on the entire island (no matter how “official” the packaging
looks…better examine the band color closely). Montecristo or other
brands perhaps, but don’t get taken! Might as well buy a few good
Dominicans or your other favorites before leaving for Coz and don’t risk
your $$.
Anyway, back at the condo, we grab a short siesta then head down to the beach
to catch some late afternoon rays. The skies have cleared and it’s
gorgeous once again. The ocean is calling however, so after dad slaps in
contacts (my eyes are slowly returning to something resembling normal) we all
jump in and snorkel for an hour or so. It looks like we’re primed for
another super sunset. We watch this one from the beach. By now,
we’re probably into overkill on sunset pics, but it’s only film, right?
There are a few “tequila cruises” passing by in front of us. Wonder
if they ever lose anyone overboard on those things?
After showering, the restaurant selection for the evening is Prima. We
leave shortly after 7 with my son again keeping the taxi driver honest by
negotiating fares. To our surprise, most of the cruise ships seem to
have left this evening. It’s still busy, but not bad. We don’t
have reservations and the place is packed, but we still get seated
immediately. We order a 3 cheese white pizza for an appetizer and it’s
fabulous. There are fresh breads with minced garlic and olive oil.
Mom orders broiled fresh Mahi Mahi with pasta (chef’s suggestion,
first of the season), Em has spaghetti and meatballs, Nate has lasagna with
meat and cheese (LOTS of cheese) and dad has the seafood pasta combo (lobster,
shrimp, scallops in a marinara sauce) with some nice fresh veggies on the
side. The guitar entertainer here was one of the best so far and played
twice for our table. The service was a little slow, but it was busy
tonight too and the food was great. Portions are very large. Recommended?
Definitely.
Then it’s back to our condo. Dad spends some quality time out on the
balcony in the soft warm breezes of the evening, checking out the stars and
the lights of Playa across the channel. Can you say relaxation?? Then
it’s off to bed in anticipation of another great beach day ahead of us.
(NOTE RE: PICS…we’re just getting them back now. Don’t have a
digital camera. Will have to try and scan/post a few later. Wish
me luck!)
Trip Report Day 5, Wednesday March 13
Dad’s up a little earlier today, 7 a.m. A little problem with a back
spasm overnight made for less-than-peaceful sleep. But again, when you
only have seven days to spend in Cozumel, you can’t let minor things
distract you from enjoying each moment. Plus, his sunburned eyelids and
feet are starting to mend, so it’s all balancing out. Out on the
balcony again with coffee and breakfast to watch the morning activity on the
ocean. It’s more humid today and quite a few clouds hang over the
brilliant blue water, but there are sunny breaks too and the temps, as usual,
are wonderful. Several cruise ships are passing from north to south
headed for the piers and they maneuver for position and dock. You can
see the people disembarking in hoards. Shopkeepers had better open early
today!
Another beach day is planned. This vacation was intended for maximizing
“relaxercizing” and that’s what we intend to do in the limited days
remaining. Inevitably, time is slipping by way too quickly. I’m
guessing we share this sentiment with everyone else who visits Coz. To
me it always feels like time starts out moving at a reasonable pace. But
all of a sudden you turn around and the vacation is already halfway over.
And (very cruelly) for some reason, at that point the days seem to start
moving even more quickly. What’s up with that? At any rate, we
intend to slow time down as much as possible by not packing our day too full
with “must do” activities.
Originally we planned to go over and see Tulum (mom/dad saw last time) as Nate
and Em wanted to visit the Mayan sites. But we didn’t do any advanced
planning, and the tour that could be booked through our condo rep ran
$104/person, which we thought was a little steep. Plus it would consume
an entire day. We also thought about heading down to Dzul Ha or
Chankinaab (my wife and I also went there on our last trip). But since
the kids are more than happy hanging out by the condo and the snorkeling’s
been great, why leave?
Nate and Em also apparently see that time’s slipping by quickly, so
they’re up by 7:30 and join dad on the balcony. Believe me, this is
not their normal sleep pattern! Em decides to tackle a little homework
before the sun is at the optimal angle for proper tanning (her goal is to
return to school with some nice color and impress her sixth grade
girlfriends). Actually both kids have taken some time to crack the books
which has been a pleasant surprise…it’s almost the end of the quarter and
they don’t want to return to massive amounts of the stuff. Luis the
condo caretaker is busy with his chores. He keeps the outside immaculate
while his wife Mimi does the same on the inside. Salina, the condo cat,
observes it all and oversees the activity from her posh poolside cushion.
On the beach by 9:30, the skies have cleared considerably and it’s showing
signs that this could be our hottest day yet, with upper 80’s possible and
less of a breeze. YESSS! Dad hears from a nearby snorkeler that he
was stung by a jellyfish, but he heads into the water anyway. He spots a
lone J-fish but steers clear. The ocean is again perfect, but the
sunlight will be better for sightseeing later, so it’s only a half-hour
excursion. There are frequent “re-beveraging” trips into the condo
by the kids. My wife and I are relieved and extremely excited to see how
much they are enjoying Cozumel and this type of more passive vacation. We
are blessed to have two adolescent kids that actually like each other’s
company and it’s fun to observe them goofing around in the pool together,
working on some small sand sculptures, torturing ants, etc. and not have to
worry about intervening to break up conflicts. Amazingly to us, Nate
likes to sit on the end of the dock for huge chunks of time, just looking at
the ocean and soaking up the scene. They are definitely becoming Cozumel
addicts.
Dad spends some time reading (finishing his first book of the trip), and also
catches up on journaling. (No this isn’t all from memory! I have
kept journals through most of our vacations and I highly recommend the
practice. It’s amazing how much detail you forget unless you take time
to write things down. If you think my trip report postings have been
long, you should see the unedited version that I’ve got recorded in my
actual trip journal!!)
Mom moves out onto the small cement dock to catch some better breezes and the
rest of us cool down in shadier areas. When she and I first began to
date, I was always embarrassed by how pale I looked compared to her nice tan
(life guarding will do that to you). She’s definitely “professional
status” when it comes to her techniques for maximizing rays. Em’s
getting a little pink so we watch that closely. Around 3, dad’s back
in the ocean for more snorkeling and yes, the sun angle makes this a much
better time for observing.
After enough sun time, we move into the condo for a junk food feeding frenzy.
We happen to find the Weather Channel and they’re talking about a
major winter storm that’s aimed at our area of MN. We all look at each
other and grin…don’t you just love it when that happens and you’re down
here??? Then it’s out onto the balcony for the nightly sunset show.
The skies are perfectly clear, so once again the moment is stunning and
the kids are suitably impressed. Verbal descriptions and even the best
of pictures just can’t do it justice. It’s definitely one of those
things about which you can say, “you have to be there” and mean it.
We decide to grab dinner at El Moro based on board recommendations. It’s
certainly off the beaten path and a bit “rustic.” But the service is
prompt and very friendly and the food’s super. The bright orange
Formica tables and vinyl-covered chairs add to the ambience and it appears
they even have a small dance floor, complete with disco ball. We start
with an appetizer of nachos and black beans and cheese (recommended). Mom
has a ‘Grita while dad orders a Negra Modelo and the kids get the only pop
flavor they have, orange Fanta. Dad orders lime soup (with chicken and
tortillas—very good). Mom and Em each have the chicken enchilada
plate. Nate orders chicken fajitas and dad the beef version. The
prices are extremely reasonable and the food was great!
While we’re eating we notice a small woeful-looking dog begging for scraps.
He appears to be blind in one eye and living a tough life. After
dinner, dad saves some beef from his fajitas and rolls up a tortilla and the
kids feed the grateful pup. There appear to be quite a few strays
around. I kick myself for not remembering to bring some supplies down to
the Humane Society. We adopted a shelter animal ourselves and you could
not find a sweeter dog than our Chloe. So we have a definite soft spot
for neglected animals. Next time I vow not to forget.
As we walk out to the street there are a couple taxis parked nearby, so we
jump in and head straight for Cantamar. We gather again on the balcony
to soak up the starlight. Nate and Em decide to head down to the beach
and do some viewing from there so they can be closer to the ocean and the
sound of the waves. The weather so far could not have been any more
perfect and tonight continues that pattern. Even though we haven’t
exactly exerted ourselves today, we still feel tired, so it’s off to bed at
a reasonable hour. Tomorrow’s plans include a trip to San Gervasio,
the island’s main ruin site. If we can’t do Tulum at least we can
give the kids a small taste here, plus it’s another excuse to get over to
the east side again. Maybe lunch at…..?
Trip Report Day 6, Thursday March 14
Can you say redundant? When something’s working, you stick with it.
Up by 7 and onto the balcony. Either we had the A/C cranked way up
last night or it’s more humid out today because my sunglasses fog over the
instant I step outside (at least this time I know the reason I can’t see is
NOT due to sunburned eyelids). This morning, I select coffee, juice and
that Breakfast of Champions, Thin Mint Girl Scout Cookies (we’re a little
low on groceries). The ocean is very calm today and that makes the
colors of the water even more vibrant. A cruiser is headed into port
again. Next door, our neighbors are preparing to leave for home. They’ve
done a fair amount of diving and their dive boat conveniently dropped them off
right at the condo dock several times while we were sunning on the beach.
With their departure, it appears we’ll have the condo complex almost
to ourselves.
Slowly the rest of the family materializes in varying stages of consciousness.
After showers and some Choco Zucaritas (con maluauiscos—with
marshmallows), they’re alert and bouncing off the walls (that cereal’s
better than a double espresso). Today’s plan is to take our luxury
convertible (i.e., the Marlin Bug) over to the east side again, with a stop at
the San Gervasio ruin site. It’s our best option for showing the kids
a Mayan site since we opted out of a trip to Tulum this time. We’ve
got the route down now and soon we’re at the turnoff for the park. It’s
a few miles to the visitor center where a “security guard” shows us where
to park (looks like they’ve found yet another opportunity for tips). After
collecting several admissions taxes and fees (including one for bringing in
our video camera) we begin our tour. The grounds around the visitor
center are well maintained and landscaped. We could have opted for a
paid guide service, but decide to go it alone.
We head off on a marked tour path and view a number of ruin sites. Compared
to Tulum, it is not nearly as extensive, and the organization of ruin
buildings and walkways aren’t as clear to see. It certainly can’t
compare to the scenic location of Tulum either. However, I’d have to
say there were more ruins here than I was led to believe from literature, and
it served as a good introduction for the kids. A highlight was observing
all the iguanas in the trees, on the footpaths and up on the rocks. A
particularly exciting moment came when I actually defied gravity by hovering
several feet in midair after nearly stepping on a rather large and extremely
fast-moving specimen. Even today my wife and kids continue to remark how
thrilling my performance was and express regret they did not have the camera
running (something about America’s Funniest Home Videos). I’m always
pleased when I can help provide my children with lasting memories.
Around 12:30 or so we complete our tour of the sites, pile back in the
VunderBug and continue on to the east side and Mezcalito’s. We find a
nice sunny spot on the beach near the volleyball court. The Naked Beach
sign nearby causes a little distress for our kids, but we don’t observe
anyone taking advantage of the option. (NOTE: Not to beat an already
battered horse to death, but I’ve seen the postings lately on the board
regarding beach nudity. My editorial comment on the subject—and since
it’s my trip report I get to make one—echoes a couple of others I’ve
seen. If it were just my wife and I, I could care less what people want
to do on their vacation. But people need to consider who else is around.
Example: my kids are still at ages where they’re having a tough enough
time just getting comfortable with their own bodies, let alone with someone
else flaunting theirs. So if you’re gonna go a-buffo, do everyone else
a favor and at least be discreet about it and separate yourselves from your
clothes away from areas where kids and others who might not care to see your
tan lines might be.)
We order appetizers of Mayan Quesadillas (which are really basically just
cheese quesadillas but still good) and some beef nachos (really good) along
with Sol for mom, pop for the kids and a ‘grita for dad. For lunch,
Nate, mom and Em decide to split an order of chicken fajitas and I opt for the
“Tacombo,” chicken and seafood tacos. All items arrive with a swarm
of flies. This is not a reflection on the taste or quality of the food,
which was excellent. Sometimes on a picnic you get some uninvited guests
and this was one of those times. Otherwise, it was great. After
lunch our kids head down to the surf to get their tootsies cooled off and mom
and I just relax and enjoy the sun, the tunes and another beer and ‘grita.
I take some videos and mom snaps a few pics. I spot an available
magic marker on a table nearby and add our names to one of the autograph post
near our table. After paying the check, I spot a Mezcalito’s t-shirt
and this becomes souvenir #1. As we get back to the Bug, I ask a kid
nearby to take our picture and we get a nice shot of the four of us in the Bug
with the ocean in the background (a possible pic post?).
With limited tanning time remaining, we zip directly back to the condo, do a
quick change, lather up with suntan lotion and beach it once again. We
also do a marathon snorkeling session with everyone except mom getting into
the action. We spot some great specimens including angels, rays and a
yellow-spotted eel. I wish I knew more of my fish species. Help me
out on one if you can, I know this is probably impossible without a picture
but…it was turquoise blue, with brighter blue and pink highlights, about
10” long, with some white/dark markings around its mouth as I recall. One
of my favorites. Plus, what are the small dark fish with the neon blue
spots that hang around the coral? Ditto a favorite.
Anyway, back in for showers to get the saltwater off and then our evening
sunset session begins. There are some heavier clouds stretching across
the western shore line (clear over Coz though) and we assume that means
we’ll fail to see a show tonight. But just at the horizon, the sun
breaks through as a soft orange-red orb and it’s another great, truly unique
event.
We plan to play a round of mini-golf tonight, so we hail a taxi and soon
we’re at the course. I say hello to Sally and introduce myself as a
Travelnotes addict. Unfortunately, I forgot to bring a biscuit for
Sunshine (another item that will go on our list to bring for next trip).
We get our clubs and some pop for everyone and hit the course. Tip:
you MUST make time to do this on your trip! This course layout is the
best I’ve seen (not that I’m an expert, but with younger kids you do tend
to seek these courses out from time to time). But probably the best part
about the place is the amazing landscaping and variety of plants and flowers
everywhere, waterfalls, streams, bridges and fountains. Truly unique.
Combine that with some parrots on one hole and some nifty tunes (Eagles,
Beach Boys, Jimmy Buffet, Bob Marley etc.) playing throughout the round and
you can’t miss having a great time. Em had two holes in one, including
a pressure shot on the last hole with a gallery watching! Still don’t
know how that one managed to find the cup. We agree this was another
highlight of our trip.
We cap off the day with a quick walk over to La Choza for a late (9 p.m.)
supper. After our visit here on the first night our kids asked that we
come back again as they enjoyed their meals so much, and they didn’t get any
arguments from mom and I. Again, mom and Em split an order of chicken
fajitas, Nate orders the beef, and I have chicken in mole sauce. All
meals came w/pasta soup as well.
We take a quick walk toward the waterfront and catch a taxi balk to the condo.
Again, the nightly “wind-down” ritual continues with some time out
on the balcony watching stars, the lights of the town and of Playa while we
listen to the waves slap against the shoreline rocks. Nate heads down by
himself to sit on the dock alone. We know how he feels. Time’s
growing short to enjoy these moments. It’s a mixture of emotions…the
tranquility and beauty one senses and the melancholy awareness that soon
we’ll be returning to our “other life.” One more day to milk all
we can out of the island and create a few more memories to tide us over until
what is SURE to be our next trip.
Trip Report Day 7/Day 8, March 15-16
“Last full day.”
I don’t like the sound of that AT ALL! We’ve already decided to make
it a beach marathon, but there are a few details to take care of. First,
there’s the mandatory and now-familiar balcony “wake up time” to check
out the day and relax (Relax? I just woke up. THAT’S when you
KNOW you’re really on a vacation!). Then, we get organized for a last
spin in our VW. We need a few more things to get through today and
tomorrow (like one last 6-pack of Sol). So we run down to Chedraui and
grab what we need, then head to the Pemex nearby to top off the tank. The
fill comes to just over 100 Pesos, so we’ve used the Bug all week and gas
has cost us a little over $10. I’ll take that.
Returning to the condo, we take a few shots of our now-beloved (rust, dings,
tricky clutch and all) rental car before contacting Marlin to pick it up.
As luck would have it, they are in our parking lot picking up another
party’s car, so they agree to return in 10 minutes for ours. That’ll
save us some beach time! They’re back on schedule and the return goes
smoothly. No complaints here with Marlin, although ours was a bare-bones
car and I’m guessing you could do better quality-wise. Sure worked for
us though, and part of the fun of riding around in it was the sort of
“campy” atmosphere it created (or was that the blue exhaust fumes?).
On the beach, we all “assume the position.” Mom and I grab our beach
chairs and Nate and Em alternate between the chairs, the pool and the dock.
It’s breezy today but again gorgeous weather, with puffy clouds
shading us at times from a fairly intense sun and temps in the mid-80’s.
We’ve gone a perfect 7 for 7 in the weather department! We heard
from the condo rep, Fulvio, that last week the weather on Coz was a little
rough for a couple of days (extremely windy and quite chilly—the Norte
apparently put in an appearance). He claimed that one day temps were
around 61 degrees and some parents kept their kids home from school because it
was “too cold”!! When you’re from Minnesota and used to winters
where it can regularly get to 20+ below zero, this news elicits big groans all
around. We also learn that back in MN, our area was hit by a sizeable
ice and snow storm Thursday night (discovered on our return that our house was
without power for some time due to lines down), so looks like we lucked out
and picked the right week to be here on both counts.
There are several more snorkeling excursions, including the last one of the
day when I spot a large (close to 6’) barracuda giving me a lazy glance.
It’s REALLY hard to climb out of the ocean for the final time. We
try to take that “last look around” about 50 times before ultimately
giving in to the inevitable. As we reach the beach, there’s one more
surprise when the kids spot a small hermit crab trying to navigate the sand
“dunes” on the beach. They get a kick out of the little guy and the
pattern of tracks it leaves as it tries to steer clear of the roadblocks they
place in his way.
We linger as long as we can to soak up the max sun possible. Who knows
how long it will be before some of these body parts will see the light of day
like this again?!? (And that might be a GOOD thing, depending on your
viewpoint!) We shower up and prepare for one last sunset. Before
we hit the balcony, mom checks in with Fulvio. Our flight leaves at 3
tomorrow afternoon, but condo checkout time is 10 a.m. We wonder if it
is possible to arrange to keep our luggage somewhere so we can spend a few
more hours in town tomorrow. He informs us that not only is it no
problem to leave our bags in our condo, but that we could have the place FOR
THE NEXT WEEK AT HALF PRICE if we want, since it’s not booked. I
can’t begin to tell you how tempted we all were by that prospect. But
although the idea was enticing, there was a frustrating realization it just
wouldn’t work. Life’s still just a little too complicated to be able
to do something so spur-of-the-moment. But it was fun to contemplate the
idea for a while!
Tonight’s sunset was special once again. This one featured a very
large cloud, which positioned itself perfectly in front of the sun to create a
halo of rays poking out all around. At one point, Sol shone through a
notch in the cloud, complete with a burst of sunbeams, which made for a great
video shot. Then it headed over the horizon, and our last true Coz Kodak
Moment passed.
As the sunlight faded and the sky turned shades of orange, pink, blue and
gray, we organized for our last evening out. It’s designed for some
souvenir shopping and then to cap off the week, dinner at Pepe’s. Mom
and I ate there on our previous trip and we know we’ll be dropping some
bucks, but we also know the food and service will be great. We
originally planned to grab a taxi, but we decide to make it last a bit by
walking to town. It’s too nice of an evening to ride! Near town
we watch two cruise ships depart and glance up to see a silver
“smiley-faced” new moon over the ocean.
Reaching town, we begin to browse. Em wants to have her hair braided.
(“All the girls who go to Mexico get that done.”) So we find someone and
she opts for the “half-head” version for $15. It’s supposed to
take 15 minutes. 45 minutes later, she’s done. She likes her new look
and is excited to show it off to friends (which is the whole idea of
submitting to the tugging and twisting in the first place). For a
12-year-old girl, it apparently doesn’t get any better than a nice tan and
Mexican Braids. She could care less about other souvenirs after that.
We don’t really buy much else. Nate gets the local newspaper to show
his Spanish class. Mom grabs a t-shirt and we buy some vanilla for the
friends who loaned us their snorkel gear and for her mom and dad who have been
taking care of our dog. Even though we made reservations for later, we
decide to head to Pepe’s early, since we aren’t really interested in more
shopping. It’s not crowded so we’re seated immediately at a nice
table overlooking the waterfront.
At the waiter’s recommendation, I try a tequila martini (OK, but not a top
10) and mom has a great ‘grita while the kids each get Pinatas
(non-alcoholic Pina Coladas), which they absolutely love. We order a
shrimp-over-avocado appetizer (wonderful sauce) and mom and I opt for a non-Mex
entrée, their Ribeye, which is fork-tender. Em had the kid-size breaded
shrimp and Nate ordered the Mexican Sampler Platter (at my
recommendation…had on the last trip) and both are very pleased with their
choices. After dinner, mom and I order Mayan coffee and the presentation
they make of this drink is worth the price of the coffee. OK, so we
dropped a bundle tonight. But it was a great way to wrap up our last
evening in Cozumel and everyone agreed the splurge was worth it…at least
until the credit card bill arrives.
On our taxi ride home we pass the airport and see a jet on the runway ready to
take off. In another 15 hours or so, that’ll be us.
Wait a minute. There IS that half-off deal for the next week at the
condo….
Nate and I spend a few minutes outside again, soaking up the tropical night.
It’s going to be awhile before we hear crickets back in Minnesota, so
better savor the sounds and smells while we can! The thought occurs to
pull an all-nighter on the balcony, but wisdom prevails and we hit the sack.
Off for home tomorrow :(
Saturday March 16, Getaway Day
It’s hard to believe the week is over. Last Saturday we were excitedly
struggling through a blizzard, looking forward to warmer weather. Now
we’re on the flip side, waking up to warm humid air and a bright blue ocean
with cold, snow and ice awaiting our return. Again, the thought of that
extra week intrudes. It couldn’t be any more tempting on this
beautiful morning, but duty calls. I make coffee and journal for a
while on the balcony, then mom and I start the process of stuffing suitcases.
At least now we have them all to stuff!
Nate and Em head down to the dock to feed the fish a few remaining “Bimbo
Buns” (brand name/hotdog buns, the name still makes us chuckle) and soak up
a little more sun while we finish condo clean up chores. As we get ready
to head into town for a bit more shopping, Luis and Mimi (the caretakers) stop
by to check on why we haven’t left yet. Since they speak very little
English, Nate steps in to explain in Spanish that Fulvio has allowed us to
keep our bags here until we leave. We’re impressed by how easily he
handles the explanation and how readily they seem to understand what he’s
telling them. Those Spanish classes must be working! We leave each
of them a nice tip and also a bottle of wine.
We grab a taxi (fortunately you never have to wait long for one of those on
Coz), and we’re dropped off at the Plaza where soon we’re in the middle of
a Saturday a.m. Mexican marketplace. We’re “encouraged”
("Hey, Amigos...") to come in and check out most everyone’s
selections. I buy some gifts (habanero hot sauce, Mezcal—complete with
worm—and vanilla) for some of the co-workers who have picked up the slack
for me while I’ve been gone. Mom finds a pseudo-Mayan “sun” wall
hanging at another shop and Em a moon version of the same. But we tire
of the shopping scene and with an hour or so remaining before our trip to the
airport, we decide to wrap everything up at—where else—La Choza (our
favorite of the trip) for light lunch.
Mom and kids simply order the quesadilla appetizers as their meal. Dad
opts for a cheese chili relleno, which comes with some delicious bean soup.
We munch on fresh chips and their spicy chili-cheese sauce. During
our meal a nice 3-piece instrumental group serenades us one last time and we
ask them for a “happy song” to cheer us up prior to departure. Time
is flying now, so we quickly pay our check (our waiter gets lucky with a nice
tip as I lighten up the wallet and get rid of some extra Pesos), then it’s
into a cab and back to the condo to grab our suitcases and head to the
airport.
We barely get the bags out the door and a taxi spots another fare and waits
while we load them up. It almost happens too fast. We planned to
“say goodbye” to the beach, the ocean, the condo, etc., but before we can
turn around, we’re flying off to fly away. Probably better than a long
goodbye though.
After enduring every possible inspection and baggage search humanly possible,
we’re on board and ready to roll. (Except for one last delay when the
fuel truck comes up empty and we have to wait for them to fill up the truck
before they can fill up our plane…I guess it’s an important enough detail
that we’ll accept the wait.) Wheels up a little late, around 3:30 vs.
3 p.m. scheduled time. An uneventful flight and we land in Mpls at 7:20
to 36 degree weather. It’s great to be home…right.
We breeze through customs…the only time we haven’t been searched the whole
trip. Guess I could have smuggled in that box of Habana Montecristos
after all. At the baggage claim, ALL the luggage makes it this time.
Hallelujah! We catch the shuttle to our car and one last surprise
awaits us. OUR BATTERY IS DEAD! Perfect bookends for the trip:
luggage lost on arrival, dead battery on return!! But the shuttle driver
comes back and jumps it (after the four of us push the Explorer out of the
parking stall for better access) and we’re soon on our way. Vacation
is officially over, if somewhat unceremoniously.
Epilogue:
After 7 YEARS of wishing, literally hours of reading the discussion board, and
frequent dreams about visiting the island that my wife and I enjoyed so much,
we FINALLY made it back to Cozumel. I’ve envied all of you who have
been such frequent visitors and have avidly read your trip reports, studied
your suggestions and lived vicariously through your comments and experiences
since I’ve found Travelnotes. (And thank God for Travelnotes!) The
story of why we’ve been prevented from visiting until now is too long a tale
to write and the details aren’t all that interesting. But I can
honestly tell you that this trip was a victory of sorts for me personally.
It was the culmination of overcoming some serious obstacles that faced
my small business, and while many still remain, the ability to return to
something I’ve had my sights on for so long was vindication of sorts. To
be able to experience it again and especially to share it with my children has
been a great joy. And for me to FINALLY be able to share my own
experiences with the rest of you who find a special delight in visiting this
very special place has been a privilege. I hope I’ve not been too
long-winded and that you’ve been able to feel some of the same enjoyment
I’ve received from your reports in mine. Thanks for your kind comments
and for sticking with me!
Next, I may just get brave and try some picture posts!