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Posted by CozAl on 03/21/02

Trip report, Pre and Day 1 (long, sorry!)

Cantamar Condominiums
Cantamar Condominium Building, Cozumel Condos (Picture Courtesy of At Home in Cozumel)

Cast of characters:

Alan (aka Dad), Lynette (aka Mom), Nathan (aka Nate, son, age 15), Emily (aka Em, daughter, age 12)

Background:

Previous trip to Coz back in ’95, an eternity ago.  Mom/dad only.  7 days, stayed at El Presidente.  Got lucky with a beachfront room at run-of-house rate.  Best vacation ever.  Vowed to return…way too long in coming.

Prologue:

Spur of the moment trip developed 3 wks prior to departure when I found Northwest Airlines frequent flyer seats available for 4 people wk of 3/9-16.  Next step, would there be a good lodging option?  Had checked out condos on Travelnotes prior.  Inquired and Alex/Jidan got back immediately with ideas.  Cantamar Condo #202 was available and fairly reasonable.  Looked great on web…booked it.  Turned out to be fantastic.  Excitement builds…kids can’t wait.  Both speak Spanish (they’ve both been enrolled in a partial Spanish immersion program since 1st grade).  We have to pull them out of school for the week.  Not a problem as far as they are concerned!!  We book some tanning sessions and hit the electric beach.  Anticipation is half the fun.

Pre-trip, Fri. 3/8:

Planned to get to Mpls airport early Saturday (flight leaves 9:30).  But now they have issued a winter storm warning for tonight/Saturday.  Shift gears and decide to get a motel close to airport for Fri. night and leave the car at an off-site lot so we won’t risk putting in the ditch on Saturday a.m.  We find a reasonable room near the Mall of America.  Now we have to compress our “leisurely” packing plans into a couple of hours.  Mom/dad fly around the house stuffing suitcases.  Boy I hope we don’t forget something major.  We grab the kids after school and head up.  Everyone’s excited, as our vacation actually seems to be starting early.  Grab supper at Mall of Am., get a couple of extra books for beach time at Barnes and Noble, set the alarm for 5 a.m. and try to get to sleep.  Coz here we come!

Saturday, 3/9, Day 1:

Everyone up and showered.  We look outside to see a decent snow/ice storm underway.  Car doors are almost frozen shut, but I’ll break the glass if I have to!  Very windy, snowy and icy, temps in the 20’s and falling.  Drive to the Park ‘n Go, leave the car and jump into a waiting shuttle.  Dumb move…in our rush we forget to jettison our heavy coats in the car.  Now we have to find room for them in our luggage.  Oh well, minor details.

Into the airport in plenty of time.  We get seat assignments and are subject to every possible inspection/search.  They even pull my wife and son out of the boarding line to search their carry-ons (yeah, they really look like terrorists).  Patience!  Up to the gate to wait.  It’s snowing pretty good now, but our flight is still on schedule.  We board at around 9.  By now the snow is coming down and the wind is whipping so bad you can’t see the runway.  Wait in line to de-ice…no air conditioning as we sit.  Hour and 45 mins behind schedule but it’s finally wheels up.  We found out later we just made it out.  The airport cancelled 80 flights that day!!!

Uneventful flight and we’re on the ground in Coz by 3:30.  We step out into mid-80’s, sunshine and that wonderful tropical air I remember so well.  Excitement level off the charts for all.  Into the airport and through customs, no prob.  Then we wait for our luggage.  First 3 pieces arrive quickly.  Then we wait.  And wait.  And wait.  Mom and Dad's suitcase never shows…and we have NO Cozumel-weather clothes packed in our carry-ons.  Dumb.  As we fill out paper work, our excitement level drops considerably.  Nate and Em are concerned.  What happens now?  I pull my wife aside and let her know that we are NOT going to let anything ruin this trip.  We’ll manage and we cannot get stressed out over the situation and upset the kids.  We rally.  

The airport official helping us is great.  We get copies of all the paperwork and he gives us a name and number to call on Monday to check on the situation.  Will we ever see our stuff again?  Of course as we move toward the Red/Green lights I already know what awaits…that’s right, RED.  So we endure another round of inspections.  Actually, since everyone knew by then what had happened, they were almost embarrassed to have to go through our things, so they make quick work of it (even more so than usual) and we’re almost on our way.  

A rep from the condo is holding up our name (Who else would we be? We’re the only ones left!) and he gives us an envelope with directions, condo key, etc.  We catch a shuttle and although still flustered, we start to see our vacation actually beginning in earnest.

Cantamar is just north of town and the airport.  We’re dropped off and make our way to #202.  As we open the door we know we’ve made a great choice.  2 bedrooms/2 baths.  Very clean.  Floor to ceiling windows on the ocean side.  Balconies off the master bedroom and living room overlooking the pool and ocean.   Satellite TV, full kitchen, separate beds for the kids, well appointed (even a video library).  A small beach and a couple of palapas for shade.  Snorkeling right in front.  Life is getting MUCH better.  We’ve rented a VW Bug convertible for the week.  It’s dropped off soon after we arrive (Marlin.  I know others have said they’ve had probs with them.  None we can report.  They treated us fine).  Our Bug’s a bit “rustic” with their trademark red/white striped canvas top.  But it runs and by the end of the trip, the kids think we should buy one.

We jump in and head out to find some clothes for mom/dad.  It’s a 4-speed and it’s been about 5 years since I’d handled one.  Tricky clutch but only killed it once.  I had a general idea of where to head from the discussion board/map, so we attempt to find Chedraui.  Lots of traffic but we make it.  The town has definitely changed in 7 years.  I’ve never seen so many jewelry stores in one place.  Getting a bit more Americanized (YUCK).  Chedraui wasn’t here before either.  But boy are we glad it’s here today!  Mom/dad each find a swimsuit (Yikes!  But they’ll have to do), pair of shorts, and other absolute necessities so we can FINALLY ditch the blue jeans.   But I’ve got a feeling Northwest is going to be picking up the tab.  Also stock up on Sol, Dos Equis, groceries for breakfast, snacks, etc.  Life’s improving exponentially now!  (Although I did find out that men’s sizes run a little small in Mexico…Extra Grande was still a little tight!)

Back to the condo.  Cold ones are opened.  We change and hit the balcony.  The turquoise waters of the Caribbean are unreal.  Our kids are beside themselves.  We can’t believe we’re finally back to this fantastic island.  Luggage?  What luggage?

That evening we decide on La Choza, where we'd eaten last trip.  Nate negotiates the cab fare in Spanish (decide on taxis at night).  The margaritas are amazing (one would have been plenty…oh well, after the day we’ve had  ;)  Guacamole to die for.  Their chili/cheese dip is great.  We dig into the chips and dips.  Nate has beef fajitas (as the waiter sets them down he announces “Iguana Fajita” which earns a chuckle), Mom/Em split chicken fajitas and dad has the grilled garlic shrimp.  Food is inhaled.  We vow to return.

We stroll back through the plaza.  Dad grabs a cigar and we head back to the condo.  We sit on the balcony enjoying the sound of the waves, looking at the southern stars as a gentle tropical breeze melts away the last of the winter we left behind.  A great vacation is in front of us and we all look forward to enjoying and sharing the experience together.

Trip Report Day 2, Sunday, March 10:

Sleep in?  Not on your life.  Mom and dad are up before 7:30.  Last trip we arrived late at night and we always recall how excited we were the first time we opened up the drapes to see the otherworldly colors of the ocean.  So we enjoy throwing back the curtains to the same magnificent view today.  Soon we’re on the balcony with juice and pastries watching the morning boat traffic go by.  It’s a partly cloudy and wonderfully warm a.m. with a nice breeze from time to time.   The kids also arise early (now THAT’S unusual) as they don’t want to sleep all day and waste any Coz time.

Dad’s the first to hit the beach.  We all eventually stake out our spots.  We’ve agreed this will be a beach day (first of many).  Nate and Em spot Salina, the Condo cat, and give her some TLC.  As best we can determine, her only task in life is to spend her days power lounging at various locations around the condo including poolside on some cushions, sprawled out in the warm sand, under the shade of the palapas, etc.  Where do I get that job?

We brought snorkel gear for everyone with us.  Managed to borrow some pretty good equipment from relatives and friends.   Only had to buy fins for Em, so it’s a small investment for the fun we receive in return.  Dad hits the water first and then for the first time, so do the kids.  There’s a little more wave action today and so it’s tricky to get in close to the coral near the shore, but the sea life is more than adequate here to keep everyone in awe.  Equal to the area in front of Presidente we enjoyed last trip.

Mom and dad lack much of our belongings due to the lost suitcase.  One important item missing for dad is the sunglasses he uses when wearing contacts.  Memo: if you plan to beach it without sunglasses, be SURE to put sun block on your eyelids.  Memo 2: the sun finds every unprotected spot…tops of feet especially.  Dad pays a price later!

Dad’s emergency-purchased Chedraui swimsuit seems to have a lining made of a Mylar-like material, the kind of stuff they use to make weather balloons.  The unavoidable size discrepancy in the wearer-to-suit ratio makes the strength this material offers the wearer highly useful.  But it also prevents any true “relaxation” while wearing them.  Plus in the warm weather they stick to me like glue.  It’s just lucky the beach and condo complex is not very crowded for everyone’s sake!  But considering I could be in a down jacket shoveling snow, it’s a minor discomfort and one that I’ll gladly endure. (Just hope those around me can!)

We alternate between sunning, reading and snorkeling for most of the day.  My wife adopts a “rotisserie” method for tanning, using her Mickey Mouse watch to monitor the intervals between rotations and bastings.  She used to be a lifeguard and has this technique polished to perfection.  Her suit actually isn’t all that bad.  Considering how tough it was for her to choose one before we left (many modeling sessions and FedEx packages later…), perhaps forced swimsuit shopping is the way to go.  The kids brought some homework along and yes, they even crack a book on the beach in between dips in the pool.  Not a discouraging word to be heard.

Late in the afternoon, we all shower and change.  Mom and dad don’t have to spend much time deciding on what to wear into town tonight, so that’s one benefit of not having your luggage!  (Although the kids claim to already be sick of our clothes.)

We decide on Poncho’s Backyard for dinner.  We’re close enough to town to walk, and it’s such a great night so we do.  Lots of locals near the beach area just to the north of town.  Must be their day to play.  We find the restaurant but need to grab more Pesos, so we hit an ATM machine near the plaza and head back to Pancho’s.

We’re early and the only ones in the place.  It’s a beautiful open-air dining area and we’re seated next to the garden.  Mom and dad order Margaritas and the kids get some very good lemonade.  We order an appetizer of guac/chips and they bring us more chips and salsa.  Best guac we tasted all trip!  Em orders a spaghetti dish with chicken and a tequila-laced white sauce.  Mom has spinach-almond stuffed chicken with a poblano chili sauce.  Nate has chicken enchiladas with a mole sauce and dad has Carne Asada (beef strips marinated and grilled w/rice, 2 enchiladas, beans and guac).  All food was excellent although a little pricey.  The only negative occurs halfway through our meal when a large rat puts in an appearance, running along a wall at the back of the garden.  Another couple gets up and leaves after this, but we’re already too far into our meal so we try and pretend we didn’t see what we just saw.  He looked pretty well fed too!  I guess that’s something to be expected around town, especially given the many open-air restaurants and vendors that exist.

After supper we walk toward the plaza, browse some of the shops and wait for fiesta to begin.  Dad locates some Solarcaine at the Farmecia to treat the souvenirs from this afternoon’s beach time.  We watch some of the activities on the plaza.  Lots of kids games, locals, etc.  We’re home by 9.  A little tired (from what?) so the kids wind down by selecting “Young Frankenstein” from the video collection while mom and dad enjoy the evening out on the balcony.  We’re all in bed by 10:30.  Dad offers a prayer for deliverance from his swimsuit and drifts off to sleep.

Trip Report Day 3, Monday March 11

We sleep in a bit longer today, 8:30 or so.  Dad’s excuse for not being up any earlier is that he didn’t actually realize it was daylight yet.  His eyes are so puffy from sunburned eyelids that he could pack his meager belongings in the bags underneath his eyes and no one would notice (well, maybe).  He’s seeing through slits right now…a poster boy for using sun block and sunglasses.  Tops of his feet are mighty tender too.  My wife is giving me grief.  She, the ex-lifeguard and tanning expert. (“Tops of the feet are the worst.  Don’t you know enough to put sun block on them?  That’s gonna hurt!”)  Go ahead, make my day.  The kids roll on the floor when they get a look at my impression of a red-faced raccoon.  I switch to my remaining prescription sunglasses to help limit the criticism/sarcasm and sulk off to the balcony for juice and comfort food (donuts, etc.).

A bottle of eye drops and half a can of Solarcaine later, and dad’s able to check out the day at hand.  A few more clouds this morning, but it’s showing signs of breaking up.  It’s still gorgeous though with perfect a.m. temps and a mild breeze.  We can see two cruise ships have docked on the north piers overnight, so downtown’s going to be busy today.

Our condo continues to work out great.  We almost have the small man-made beach area to ourselves.  After dipping himself in suntan lotion, dad and family hit the beach once again.  Books are broken out, as are headphones and CD’s.  

Around 10 a.m., Luis the condo’s caretaker appears at the top of the stairs to the beach and motions at dad to follow him (he speaks little English).  My heart is pounding as we walk up the stairs to our condo (NO not from being out of shape, from the anticipation of what might await my puffy eyes).  AND YES!!! THERE IT IS IN FRONT OF OUR DOOR!! THE MISSING SUITCASE!!  I almost bend down and kiss Luis’ feet (except my Chedraui suit probably would have exploded if I’d attempted that maneuver) and tears well up in what used to be my eyes.  Thank you God!

I don’t even bother to tell my wife…my first move is into the bedroom, out of my Mylar-reinforced suit and into—AHHHHH—my blue print baggy Speedos.  Remember that old Alka Seltzer commercial?  “Plop, plop, fizz, fizz, oh what a relief it is?”  That was me getting into my suit.  Anyway, at that point our trip hit Nirvana.  Nothing from then on was going to stand in our way of a fantastic vacation.  And it didn’t.

Back at the beach, my wife casually glances up at me and notices somehow I’ve been transformed from a squinty-eyed overstuffed burrito to a suave, buff (well, maybe not quite that transformed) beach god.  Actually, she doesn’t recognize me.  As I reintroduce myself, she realizes that our suitcase and her complete beach wardrobe (that suitcase was heavy) somehow miraculously must have reappeared.  We embrace (severely embarrassing the kids) and utter a few joyful sobs.  Then it’s back to work and we begin our rotisserie tanning session once again.

After awhile when I can manage to slip contacts between my cheeks and forehead I do some more snorkeling.  I’m seeing eels, skates, a ray, some puffers, barracuda, angels, crabs, just all kinds of great stuff (lots of fish that I know others could ID, but let me just say them’s some mighty purty fish down there!). I’m certainly a novice compared to most and I’m not nearly the swimmer my wife is, but I spend more time in the ocean paddling up and down our condo beach area than anyone in our family and just couldn’t get enough of it.  The water temp was superb and clarity outstanding.  I love the sensation you get of hovering in “midair” over everything below you…the water is so clear it’s like there’s nothing between you and the bottom.  What a wonderful creation Cozumel is.  I hope we aren’t stupid and ruin this too!  (Hear that cruisers/developers?)

Back on terra firma, I sensibly confine myself to more shaded regions of the beach and force fluids to help speed my sunburn recovery.  I took Tut’s advice and stocked up on Sol.  Tip: I find that at the proper dosage, Sol miraculously manages to aid in sunburn pain relief.  Our kids are having a blast (and actually getting along with each other superbly).  They alternate between pool, ocean and beach and take turns making runs into the condo for pop and snacks.  We had not done a vacation with them before that mainly involved relaxing and we wondered if they’d be bored or not.  Our other trips have been power vacations (camping, hitting national parks, Washington DC, lots of “things to do” each day, instead of huge blocks of just goof-off time).  But they seem to be into this big time and already are talking about wanting to come back again.  (Especially now that their parents actually have a decent wardrobe and are less embarrassing to be seen with.)

It’s now absolutely clear…about mid-80’s…a perfect “10” of a day in Cozumel.

We realize that we’ve been here two days and have yet to see a patented Coz sunset, so we vow to be prepared tonight.  We shower up and change and get ready for the show. (Gee, what should I wear tonight dear?  Haven’t heard that phrase uttered until now.)  I’ve anticipated this moment since our last trip.  I’ve burned multiple CD’s with music made just for Coz sunsets (I recommend Mexican artists like Ana Gabriel, Tania Libertad, Luis Miguel, Juan Gabriel and others, or you can’t go wrong with Sinatra—“Summer Wind” was MADE for Cozumel and sunsets—or some Ray Charles or Etta James.)  I even have some small battery powered speakers that plug into my portable CD player so we can have tunes out on the balcony.  Some wine and tailor-made music in the background and the sun starts to put on its show.  Get this…there’s even a sailboat anchored just off shore in perfect position to frame the sunset.  Does not get any finer!!

We aren’t disappointed as we watch the sun begin to dip into the ocean.  Both of us are enjoying not just the sunset, but also the reactions of our children as they experience this for the first time.  We all slip into silence as the sun meets the water and remain in an almost reverent state as it completes its too-quick slide over the horizon.  Everyone agrees that we can’t miss another one of these the rest of the trip.  Is there any possible way to bottle this moment?  Probably better that we can’t, since this is one of the things that makes Cozumel so special.

The vote tonight is for seafood, so we head to El Capi Navigante.  My son negotiates the taxi fare again and now even wants to sit in front and pay the driver too!  This is big, since he’s usually pretty shy.  But he’s starting to feel more confident about speaking in Spanish and we love to watch the transformation.  We hoped this might happen on our trip too.

We’re seated right away, even though we didn’t have reservations (actually this was the case all trip).  After chips and salsa, dad orders seafood soup (octopus, shrimp and conch) while mom gets their shrimp bisque.  We plan to share with our kids, but they’re a little reluctant about dad’s choice.  They each try a piece of octopus (or was that squid?)tentacle and the reviews are mixed.  But dad polishes it off and mom’s goes quickly.

Nate orders breaded shrimp and Em has the grilled version of same, both ordering in Spanish.  The waiter is beaming.  You can tell they are so pleased when people make an effort to speak their native language.  Mom has squid (aka, calamari) rings in a beer batter and dad has the Mayan grouper wrapped in banana leaves.  All are very happy with their meals, especially Nate.  After dinner we want to show the kids a little fireworks so we order Mayan coffee which is flamed several times tableside.  There is a great guitar player in the restaurant with a wonderful voice and we get a nice rendition of La Bamba.  (Wish they’d feel free to play more ethnic Mexican songs…they apparently think everyone wants to hear the “standards” that Americans think of as “Mexican music.”)

We cut short our time in town and head straight for a taxi.  What a mess in and around the Plaza.  They’re working night and day, tearing out street areas, jack hammering, pouring cement, etc.  It appears they are recreating this whole area with multiple fountains, fresh sidewalks and walkways, etc.  It is terribly dusty and difficult to get around in right now, but it looks like it could be really nice when finished.

Back at the condo, we’re beat and everyone starts to nod off.  But it’s been a great day.  Our suitcase made it and even though he’s still a bit medium well-done in spots, dad is on the mend and feels he’s mastered Intro to Sun Tanning 101 (that first exam was brutal).  Everyone sacks out to prepare for Tuesday when we plan on touring the east side for the first time.

Trip Report Day 4, Tuesday March 12

Our daily morning ritual continues.  Mom and dad area up before 8 today and we move onto the balcony for juice, muffins and bananas and watch the island wake up.  There’s coffee today too as we picked some up yesterday.  The kids are enjoying “Choco Zucaritas” each morning, a Mexican brand of cereal that’s sort of like chocolate frosted flakes.  Nothing like a good sugar buzz to set the tone for the day.  Another beautiful morning.  We watch the dive and snorkel boats depart the nearby marina to pick up their customers.  Cruisers again docked at the pier…another busy day in town.

Plans are to jump in the mighty Bug and head over to the east side of the island today.  After showers and liberal applications of suntan lotion (I’ve learned my lesson well), we load up our cameras and jump in.  We head into town and dad starts to feel pretty cocky like he’s got the tricky clutch and the manual transmission mastered.  But it’s a zoo in San Miguel with people running around, scooters, trucks and crazy taxi drivers and mom (white knuckles and all) and the kids are still reserving judgment on my competence for the moment.  (Later as we accelerate out of town and I think I’ve got them convinced I could tackle NASCAR, I blow it when, while intending to shift out of third and into fourth, I dump us down into second, causing the kids to nearly kiss the windshield from the back seat.)  

We miss our turn and have to jog back north a ways to hit Ave Juarez, but then we’re out of town and rolling. Top down, sun warm, partly cloudy and we’re cruising.  (At least the way cruising is defined when you’re in a Bug from Marlin.)  Despite their initial concerns about no seatbelts in the back, Nate and Em are getting into the convertible life.  They get a kick out of the sign announcing the “Pee Pee Station” along the way.  It’s an easy drive on a relatively deserted road through jungle-like terrain and soon we’re parked near Mezcalito’s and the beach.

Very unique and pretty here with rolling surf and nice sand, although some areas unfortunately also come with quite a bit of trash.  The kids are a little uncomfortable when they spot the backside of a guy taking advantage of Naked Beach, and later when I reflexively happen to blurt out some perfectly innocent passing remark about a rather fetching topless girl I just happened to accidentally catch a very brief glimpse of on another beach (which earned me a punch in the arm from my wife…although the black-and-blue mark went quite nicely with my sunburn…sort of patriotic-looking).  I reminded them “we’re not in Kansas anymore” and they seemed to understand.  Or at least they learned to turn away really fast.  We walk the beach for a while, and then continue our drive south, stopping occasionally to enjoy other areas and the beauty of the ocean’s colors and surf.  It’s totally different on this side.  I can’t believe how few people there are and the level of development over here is almost nonexistent (OK, so maybe with a couple of exceptions).  We all agree that this is one of the highlights of our trip so far.  (That ocean stuff I mean.)

As the road begins to head to the west again, we turn around and reverse our course back.  It’s past noon now and we decide based on board recommendations that we just have to eat lunch on this side.  So we pick Coconuts and stop.  What a great spot.  On a bit of a cliff overlooking the ocean.  Mom grabs a Sol, and dad a Margarita (they pack a wallop) while the kids sip pop.  We have guac/chips, salsa and an appetizer of some wonderful chicken nachos.  Then we split 2 orders of shrimp quesadillas, which also are superb.  Dad takes some videos and mom snaps plenty of pictures.  Let’s see, if I were back at the office right now, I’d be doing…..   Wonder if we could stay two weeks next time??  (BTW, very nice banos!)

Stuffed, we head back to the Bug and toward our condo.  It had clouded up a bit around us and on the way home we could see where a shower had passed, but not a drop fell on us during our day.  We stop in town briefly.  Dad wants to sniff out some Cuban cigars and heads to Havana Club.  Now don’t get on me…I’m not a cigarette smoker and only occasionally puff a fine cigar for those special times.  This qualified.  Cigar Tip:  my humble assessment is that even at the best shops, you take your chances.  I honestly do not believe there is an authentic Cohiba on the entire island (no matter how “official” the packaging looks…better examine the band color closely).  Montecristo or other brands perhaps, but don’t get taken!  Might as well buy a few good Dominicans or your other favorites before leaving for Coz and don’t risk your $$.

Anyway, back at the condo, we grab a short siesta then head down to the beach to catch some late afternoon rays.  The skies have cleared and it’s gorgeous once again.  The ocean is calling however, so after dad slaps in contacts (my eyes are slowly returning to something resembling normal) we all jump in and snorkel for an hour or so.  It looks like we’re primed for another super sunset.  We watch this one from the beach.  By now, we’re probably into overkill on sunset pics, but it’s only film, right?  There are a few “tequila cruises” passing by in front of us.  Wonder if they ever lose anyone overboard on those things?

After showering, the restaurant selection for the evening is Prima.  We leave shortly after 7 with my son again keeping the taxi driver honest by negotiating fares.  To our surprise, most of the cruise ships seem to have left this evening.  It’s still busy, but not bad.  We don’t have reservations and the place is packed, but we still get seated immediately.  We order a 3 cheese white pizza for an appetizer and it’s fabulous.  There are fresh breads with minced garlic and olive oil.  Mom orders broiled fresh Mahi Mahi with pasta (chef’s suggestion, first of the season), Em has spaghetti and meatballs, Nate has lasagna with meat and cheese (LOTS of cheese) and dad has the seafood pasta combo (lobster, shrimp, scallops in a marinara sauce) with some nice fresh veggies on the side.  The guitar entertainer here was one of the best so far and played twice for our table.  The service was a little slow, but it was busy tonight too and the food was great.  Portions are very large.  Recommended?  Definitely.

Then it’s back to our condo.  Dad spends some quality time out on the balcony in the soft warm breezes of the evening, checking out the stars and the lights of Playa across the channel.  Can you say relaxation??  Then it’s off to bed in anticipation of another great beach day ahead of us.

(NOTE RE: PICS…we’re just getting them back now.  Don’t have a digital camera.  Will have to try and scan/post a few later.  Wish me luck!)

Trip Report Day 5, Wednesday March 13

Dad’s up a little earlier today, 7 a.m.  A little problem with a back spasm overnight made for less-than-peaceful sleep.  But again, when you only have seven days to spend in Cozumel, you can’t let minor things distract you from enjoying each moment.  Plus, his sunburned eyelids and feet are starting to mend, so it’s all balancing out.  Out on the balcony again with coffee and breakfast to watch the morning activity on the ocean.  It’s more humid today and quite a few clouds hang over the brilliant blue water, but there are sunny breaks too and the temps, as usual, are wonderful.  Several cruise ships are passing from north to south headed for the piers and they maneuver for position and dock.  You can see the people disembarking in hoards.  Shopkeepers had better open early today!

Another beach day is planned.  This vacation was intended for maximizing “relaxercizing” and that’s what we intend to do in the limited days remaining.  Inevitably, time is slipping by way too quickly.  I’m guessing we share this sentiment with everyone else who visits Coz.  To me it always feels like time starts out moving at a reasonable pace.  But all of a sudden you turn around and the vacation is already halfway over.  And (very cruelly) for some reason, at that point the days seem to start moving even more quickly.  What’s up with that?  At any rate, we intend to slow time down as much as possible by not packing our day too full with “must do” activities.  

Originally we planned to go over and see Tulum (mom/dad saw last time) as Nate and Em wanted to visit the Mayan sites.  But we didn’t do any advanced planning, and the tour that could be booked through our condo rep ran $104/person, which we thought was a little steep.  Plus it would consume an entire day.  We also thought about heading down to Dzul Ha or Chankinaab (my wife and I also went there on our last trip).  But since the kids are more than happy hanging out by the condo and the snorkeling’s been great, why leave?

Nate and Em also apparently see that time’s slipping by quickly, so they’re up by 7:30 and join dad on the balcony.  Believe me, this is not their normal sleep pattern!  Em decides to tackle a little homework before the sun is at the optimal angle for proper tanning (her goal is to return to school with some nice color and impress her sixth grade girlfriends).  Actually both kids have taken some time to crack the books which has been a pleasant surprise…it’s almost the end of the quarter and they don’t want to return to massive amounts of the stuff.  Luis the condo caretaker is busy with his chores.  He keeps the outside immaculate while his wife Mimi does the same on the inside.  Salina, the condo cat, observes it all and oversees the activity from her posh poolside cushion.

On the beach by 9:30, the skies have cleared considerably and it’s showing signs that this could be our hottest day yet, with upper 80’s possible and less of a breeze.  YESSS!  Dad hears from a nearby snorkeler that he was stung by a jellyfish, but he heads into the water anyway.  He spots a lone J-fish but steers clear.  The ocean is again perfect, but the sunlight will be better for sightseeing later, so it’s only a half-hour excursion.  There are frequent “re-beveraging” trips into the condo by the kids.  My wife and I are relieved and extremely excited to see how much they are enjoying Cozumel and this type of more passive vacation.  We are blessed to have two adolescent kids that actually like each other’s company and it’s fun to observe them goofing around in the pool together, working on some small sand sculptures, torturing ants, etc. and not have to worry about intervening to break up conflicts.  Amazingly to us, Nate likes to sit on the end of the dock for huge chunks of time, just looking at the ocean and soaking up the scene.  They are definitely becoming Cozumel addicts.

Dad spends some time reading (finishing his first book of the trip), and also catches up on journaling.  (No this isn’t all from memory!  I have kept journals through most of our vacations and I highly recommend the practice.  It’s amazing how much detail you forget unless you take time to write things down.  If you think my trip report postings have been long, you should see the unedited version that I’ve got recorded in my actual trip journal!!)

Mom moves out onto the small cement dock to catch some better breezes and the rest of us cool down in shadier areas.  When she and I first began to date, I was always embarrassed by how pale I looked compared to her nice tan (life guarding will do that to you).  She’s definitely “professional status” when it comes to her techniques for maximizing rays.  Em’s getting a little pink so we watch that closely.  Around 3, dad’s back in the ocean for more snorkeling and yes, the sun angle makes this a much better time for observing.

After enough sun time, we move into the condo for a junk food feeding frenzy.  We happen to find the Weather Channel and they’re talking about a major winter storm that’s aimed at our area of MN.  We all look at each other and grin…don’t you just love it when that happens and you’re down here???  Then it’s out onto the balcony for the nightly sunset show.  The skies are perfectly clear, so once again the moment is stunning and the kids are suitably impressed.  Verbal descriptions and even the best of pictures just can’t do it justice.  It’s definitely one of those things about which you can say, “you have to be there” and mean it.

We decide to grab dinner at El Moro based on board recommendations.  It’s certainly off the beaten path and a bit “rustic.”  But the service is prompt and very friendly and the food’s super.  The bright orange Formica tables and vinyl-covered chairs add to the ambience and it appears they even have a small dance floor, complete with disco ball.  We start with an appetizer of nachos and black beans and cheese (recommended).  Mom has a ‘Grita while dad orders a Negra Modelo and the kids get the only pop flavor they have, orange Fanta.  Dad orders lime soup (with chicken and tortillas—very good).  Mom and Em each have the chicken enchilada plate.  Nate orders chicken fajitas and dad the beef version.  The prices are extremely reasonable and the food was great!

While we’re eating we notice a small woeful-looking dog begging for scraps.  He appears to be blind in one eye and living a tough life.  After dinner, dad saves some beef from his fajitas and rolls up a tortilla and the kids feed the grateful pup.  There appear to be quite a few strays around.  I kick myself for not remembering to bring some supplies down to the Humane Society.  We adopted a shelter animal ourselves and you could not find a sweeter dog than our Chloe.  So we have a definite soft spot for neglected animals.  Next time I vow not to forget.

As we walk out to the street there are a couple taxis parked nearby, so we jump in and head straight for Cantamar.  We gather again on the balcony to soak up the starlight.  Nate and Em decide to head down to the beach and do some viewing from there so they can be closer to the ocean and the sound of the waves.  The weather so far could not have been any more perfect and tonight continues that pattern.  Even though we haven’t exactly exerted ourselves today, we still feel tired, so it’s off to bed at a reasonable hour.  Tomorrow’s plans include a trip to San Gervasio, the island’s main ruin site.  If we can’t do Tulum at least we can give the kids a small taste here, plus it’s another excuse to get over to the east side again.  Maybe lunch at…..?

Trip Report Day 6, Thursday March 14

Can you say redundant?  When something’s working, you stick with it.  Up by 7 and onto the balcony.  Either we had the A/C cranked way up last night or it’s more humid out today because my sunglasses fog over the instant I step outside (at least this time I know the reason I can’t see is NOT due to sunburned eyelids).  This morning, I select coffee, juice and that Breakfast of Champions, Thin Mint Girl Scout Cookies (we’re a little low on groceries).  The ocean is very calm today and that makes the colors of the water even more vibrant.  A cruiser is headed into port again.  Next door, our neighbors are preparing to leave for home.  They’ve done a fair amount of diving and their dive boat conveniently dropped them off right at the condo dock several times while we were sunning on the beach.  With their departure, it appears we’ll have the condo complex almost to ourselves.

Slowly the rest of the family materializes in varying stages of consciousness.  After showers and some Choco Zucaritas (con maluauiscos—with marshmallows), they’re alert and bouncing off the walls (that cereal’s better than a double espresso).  Today’s plan is to take our luxury convertible (i.e., the Marlin Bug) over to the east side again, with a stop at the San Gervasio ruin site.  It’s our best option for showing the kids a Mayan site since we opted out of a trip to Tulum this time.  We’ve got the route down now and soon we’re at the turnoff for the park.  It’s a few miles to the visitor center where a “security guard” shows us where to park (looks like they’ve found yet another opportunity for tips).  After collecting several admissions taxes and fees (including one for bringing in our video camera) we begin our tour.  The grounds around the visitor center are well maintained and landscaped.  We could have opted for a paid guide service, but decide to go it alone.

We head off on a marked tour path and view a number of ruin sites.  Compared to Tulum, it is not nearly as extensive, and the organization of ruin buildings and walkways aren’t as clear to see.  It certainly can’t compare to the scenic location of Tulum either.  However, I’d have to say there were more ruins here than I was led to believe from literature, and it served as a good introduction for the kids.  A highlight was observing all the iguanas in the trees, on the footpaths and up on the rocks.  A particularly exciting moment came when I actually defied gravity by hovering several feet in midair after nearly stepping on a rather large and extremely fast-moving specimen.  Even today my wife and kids continue to remark how thrilling my performance was and express regret they did not have the camera running (something about America’s Funniest Home Videos).  I’m always pleased when I can help provide my children with lasting memories.

Around 12:30 or so we complete our tour of the sites, pile back in the VunderBug and continue on to the east side and Mezcalito’s.  We find a nice sunny spot on the beach near the volleyball court.  The Naked Beach sign nearby causes a little distress for our kids, but we don’t observe anyone taking advantage of the option.  (NOTE: Not to beat an already battered horse to death, but I’ve seen the postings lately on the board regarding beach nudity.  My editorial comment on the subject—and since it’s my trip report I get to make one—echoes a couple of others I’ve seen.  If it were just my wife and I, I could care less what people want to do on their vacation.  But people need to consider who else is around.  Example: my kids are still at ages where they’re having a tough enough time just getting comfortable with their own bodies, let alone with someone else flaunting theirs.  So if you’re gonna go a-buffo, do everyone else a favor and at least be discreet about it and separate yourselves from your clothes away from areas where kids and others who might not care to see your tan lines might be.)

We order appetizers of Mayan Quesadillas (which are really basically just cheese quesadillas but still good) and some beef nachos (really good) along with Sol for mom, pop for the kids and a ‘grita for dad.  For lunch, Nate, mom and Em decide to split an order of chicken fajitas and I opt for the “Tacombo,” chicken and seafood tacos.  All items arrive with a swarm of flies.  This is not a reflection on the taste or quality of the food, which was excellent.  Sometimes on a picnic you get some uninvited guests and this was one of those times.  Otherwise, it was great.  After lunch our kids head down to the surf to get their tootsies cooled off and mom and I just relax and enjoy the sun, the tunes and another beer and ‘grita.  I take some videos and mom snaps a few pics.  I spot an available magic marker on a table nearby and add our names to one of the autograph post near our table.  After paying the check, I spot a Mezcalito’s t-shirt and this becomes souvenir #1.  As we get back to the Bug, I ask a kid nearby to take our picture and we get a nice shot of the four of us in the Bug with the ocean in the background (a possible pic post?).

With limited tanning time remaining, we zip directly back to the condo, do a quick change, lather up with suntan lotion and beach it once again.  We also do a marathon snorkeling session with everyone except mom getting into the action.  We spot some great specimens including angels, rays and a yellow-spotted eel.  I wish I knew more of my fish species.  Help me out on one if you can, I know this is probably impossible without a picture but…it was turquoise blue, with brighter blue and pink highlights, about 10” long, with some white/dark markings around its mouth as I recall.  One of my favorites.  Plus, what are the small dark fish with the neon blue spots that hang around the coral?  Ditto a favorite.  

Anyway, back in for showers to get the saltwater off and then our evening sunset session begins.  There are some heavier clouds stretching across the western shore line (clear over Coz though) and we assume that means we’ll fail to see a show tonight.  But just at the horizon, the sun breaks through as a soft orange-red orb and it’s another great, truly unique event.

We plan to play a round of mini-golf tonight, so we hail a taxi and soon we’re at the course.  I say hello to Sally and introduce myself as a Travelnotes addict.  Unfortunately, I forgot to bring a biscuit for Sunshine  (another item that will go on our list to bring for next trip).  We get our clubs and some pop for everyone and hit the course.  Tip: you MUST make time to do this on your trip!  This course layout is the best I’ve seen (not that I’m an expert, but with younger kids you do tend to seek these courses out from time to time).  But probably the best part about the place is the amazing landscaping and variety of plants and flowers everywhere, waterfalls, streams, bridges and fountains.  Truly unique.  Combine that with some parrots on one hole and some nifty tunes (Eagles, Beach Boys, Jimmy Buffet, Bob Marley etc.) playing throughout the round and you can’t miss having a great time.  Em had two holes in one, including a pressure shot on the last hole with a gallery watching!  Still don’t know how that one managed to find the cup.  We agree this was another highlight of our trip.

We cap off the day with a quick walk over to La Choza for a late (9 p.m.) supper.  After our visit here on the first night our kids asked that we come back again as they enjoyed their meals so much, and they didn’t get any arguments from mom and I.  Again, mom and Em split an order of chicken fajitas, Nate orders the beef, and I have chicken in mole sauce.  All meals came w/pasta soup as well.  

We take a quick walk toward the waterfront and catch a taxi balk to the condo.  Again, the nightly “wind-down” ritual continues with some time out on the balcony watching stars, the lights of the town and of Playa while we listen to the waves slap against the shoreline rocks.  Nate heads down by himself to sit on the dock alone.  We know how he feels.  Time’s growing short to enjoy these moments.  It’s a mixture of emotions…the tranquility and beauty one senses and the melancholy awareness that soon we’ll be returning to our “other life.”  One more day to milk all we can out of the island and create a few more memories to tide us over until what is SURE to be our next trip.

Trip Report Day 7/Day 8, March 15-16

“Last full day.”

I don’t like the sound of that AT ALL!  We’ve already decided to make it a beach marathon, but there are a few details to take care of.  First, there’s the mandatory and now-familiar balcony “wake up time” to check out the day and relax (Relax?  I just woke up.  THAT’S when you KNOW you’re really on a vacation!).  Then, we get organized for a last spin in our VW.  We need a few more things to get through today and tomorrow (like one last 6-pack of Sol).  So we run down to Chedraui and grab what we need, then head to the Pemex nearby to top off the tank.  The fill comes to just over 100 Pesos, so we’ve used the Bug all week and gas has cost us a little over $10.  I’ll take that.

Returning to the condo, we take a few shots of our now-beloved (rust, dings, tricky clutch and all) rental car before contacting Marlin to pick it up.  As luck would have it, they are in our parking lot picking up another party’s car, so they agree to return in 10 minutes for ours.  That’ll save us some beach time!  They’re back on schedule and the return goes smoothly.  No complaints here with Marlin, although ours was a bare-bones car and I’m guessing you could do better quality-wise.  Sure worked for us though, and part of the fun of riding around in it was the sort of “campy” atmosphere it created (or was that the blue exhaust fumes?).

On the beach, we all “assume the position.”  Mom and I grab our beach chairs and Nate and Em alternate between the chairs, the pool and the dock.  It’s breezy today but again gorgeous weather, with puffy clouds shading us at times from a fairly intense sun and temps in the mid-80’s.  We’ve gone a perfect 7 for 7 in the weather department!  We heard from the condo rep, Fulvio, that last week the weather on Coz was a little rough for a couple of days (extremely windy and quite chilly—the Norte apparently put in an appearance).  He claimed that one day temps were around 61 degrees and some parents kept their kids home from school because it was “too cold”!!  When you’re from Minnesota and used to winters where it can regularly get to 20+ below zero, this news elicits big groans all around.  We also learn that back in MN, our area was hit by a sizeable ice and snow storm Thursday night (discovered on our return that our house was without power for some time due to lines down), so looks like we lucked out and picked the right week to be here on both counts.

There are several more snorkeling excursions, including the last one of the day when I spot a large (close to 6’) barracuda giving me a lazy glance.  It’s REALLY hard to climb out of the ocean for the final time.  We try to take that “last look around” about 50 times before ultimately giving in to the inevitable.  As we reach the beach, there’s one more surprise when the kids spot a small hermit crab trying to navigate the sand “dunes” on the beach.  They get a kick out of the little guy and the pattern of tracks it leaves as it tries to steer clear of the roadblocks they place in his way.

We linger as long as we can to soak up the max sun possible.  Who knows how long it will be before some of these body parts will see the light of day like this again?!?  (And that might be a GOOD thing, depending on your viewpoint!)  We shower up and prepare for one last sunset.  Before we hit the balcony, mom checks in with Fulvio.  Our flight leaves at 3 tomorrow afternoon, but condo checkout time is 10 a.m.  We wonder if it is possible to arrange to keep our luggage somewhere so we can spend a few more hours in town tomorrow.  He informs us that not only is it no problem to leave our bags in our condo, but that we could have the place FOR THE NEXT WEEK AT HALF PRICE if we want, since it’s not booked.  I can’t begin to tell you how tempted we all were by that prospect.  But although the idea was enticing, there was a frustrating realization it just wouldn’t work.  Life’s still just a little too complicated to be able to do something so spur-of-the-moment.  But it was fun to contemplate the idea for a while!

Tonight’s sunset was special once again.  This one featured a very large cloud, which positioned itself perfectly in front of the sun to create a halo of rays poking out all around.  At one point, Sol shone through a notch in the cloud, complete with a burst of sunbeams, which made for a great video shot.  Then it headed over the horizon, and our last true Coz Kodak Moment passed.  

As the sunlight faded and the sky turned shades of orange, pink, blue and gray, we organized for our last evening out.  It’s designed for some souvenir shopping and then to cap off the week, dinner at Pepe’s.  Mom and I ate there on our previous trip and we know we’ll be dropping some bucks, but we also know the food and service will be great.  We originally planned to grab a taxi, but we decide to make it last a bit by walking to town.  It’s too nice of an evening to ride!  Near town we watch two cruise ships depart and glance up to see a silver “smiley-faced” new moon over the ocean.

Reaching town, we begin to browse.  Em wants to have her hair braided. (“All the girls who go to Mexico get that done.”) So we find someone and she opts for the “half-head” version for $15.  It’s supposed to take 15 minutes.  45 minutes later, she’s done. She likes her new look and is excited to show it off to friends (which is the whole idea of submitting to the tugging and twisting in the first place).  For a 12-year-old girl, it apparently doesn’t get any better than a nice tan and Mexican Braids.  She could care less about other souvenirs after that.  

We don’t really buy much else.  Nate gets the local newspaper to show his Spanish class.  Mom grabs a t-shirt and we buy some vanilla for the friends who loaned us their snorkel gear and for her mom and dad who have been taking care of our dog.  Even though we made reservations for later, we decide to head to Pepe’s early, since we aren’t really interested in more shopping.  It’s not crowded so we’re seated immediately at a nice table overlooking the waterfront.

At the waiter’s recommendation, I try a tequila martini (OK, but not a top 10) and mom has a great ‘grita while the kids each get Pinatas (non-alcoholic Pina Coladas), which they absolutely love.  We order a shrimp-over-avocado appetizer (wonderful sauce) and mom and I opt for a non-Mex entrée, their Ribeye, which is fork-tender.  Em had the kid-size breaded shrimp and Nate ordered the Mexican Sampler Platter (at my recommendation…had on the last trip) and both are very pleased with their choices.  After dinner, mom and I order Mayan coffee and the presentation they make of this drink is worth the price of the coffee.  OK, so we dropped a bundle tonight.  But it was a great way to wrap up our last evening in Cozumel and everyone agreed the splurge was worth it…at least until the credit card bill arrives.

On our taxi ride home we pass the airport and see a jet on the runway ready to take off.  In another 15 hours or so, that’ll be us.

Wait a minute.  There IS that half-off deal for the next week at the condo….

Nate and I spend a few minutes outside again, soaking up the tropical night.  It’s going to be awhile before we hear crickets back in Minnesota, so better savor the sounds and smells while we can!  The thought occurs to pull an all-nighter on the balcony, but wisdom prevails and we hit the sack.  Off for home tomorrow  :(

Saturday March 16, Getaway Day

It’s hard to believe the week is over.  Last Saturday we were excitedly struggling through a blizzard, looking forward to warmer weather.  Now we’re on the flip side, waking up to warm humid air and a bright blue ocean with cold, snow and ice awaiting our return.  Again, the thought of that extra week intrudes.  It couldn’t be any more tempting on this beautiful morning, but duty calls.   I make coffee and journal for a while on the balcony, then mom and I start the process of stuffing suitcases.  At least now we have them all to stuff!

Nate and Em head down to the dock to feed the fish a few remaining “Bimbo Buns” (brand name/hotdog buns, the name still makes us chuckle) and soak up a little more sun while we finish condo clean up chores.  As we get ready to head into town for a bit more shopping, Luis and Mimi (the caretakers) stop by to check on why we haven’t left yet.  Since they speak very little English, Nate steps in to explain in Spanish that Fulvio has allowed us to keep our bags here until we leave.  We’re impressed by how easily he handles the explanation and how readily they seem to understand what he’s telling them.  Those Spanish classes must be working!  We leave each of them a nice tip and also a bottle of wine.

We grab a taxi (fortunately you never have to wait long for one of those on Coz), and we’re dropped off at the Plaza where soon we’re in the middle of a Saturday a.m. Mexican marketplace.  We’re “encouraged” ("Hey, Amigos...") to come in and check out most everyone’s selections.  I buy some gifts (habanero hot sauce, Mezcal—complete with worm—and vanilla) for some of the co-workers who have picked up the slack for me while I’ve been gone.  Mom finds a pseudo-Mayan “sun” wall hanging at another shop and Em a moon version of the same.  But we tire of the shopping scene and with an hour or so remaining before our trip to the airport, we decide to wrap everything up at—where else—La Choza (our favorite of the trip) for light lunch.

Mom and kids simply order the quesadilla appetizers as their meal.  Dad opts for a cheese chili relleno, which comes with some delicious bean soup.  We munch on fresh chips and their spicy chili-cheese sauce.  During our meal a nice 3-piece instrumental group serenades us one last time and we ask them for a “happy song” to cheer us up prior to departure.  Time is flying now, so we quickly pay our check (our waiter gets lucky with a nice tip as I lighten up the wallet and get rid of some extra Pesos), then it’s into a cab and back to the condo to grab our suitcases and head to the airport.

We barely get the bags out the door and a taxi spots another fare and waits while we load them up.  It almost happens too fast.  We planned to “say goodbye” to the beach, the ocean, the condo, etc., but before we can turn around, we’re flying off to fly away.  Probably better than a long goodbye though.

After enduring every possible inspection and baggage search humanly possible, we’re on board and ready to roll.  (Except for one last delay when the fuel truck comes up empty and we have to wait for them to fill up the truck before they can fill up our plane…I guess it’s an important enough detail that we’ll accept the wait.)  Wheels up a little late, around 3:30 vs. 3 p.m. scheduled time.  An uneventful flight and we land in Mpls at 7:20 to 36 degree weather.  It’s great to be home…right.

We breeze through customs…the only time we haven’t been searched the whole trip.  Guess I could have smuggled in that box of Habana Montecristos after all.  At the baggage claim, ALL the luggage makes it this time.  Hallelujah!  We catch the shuttle to our car and one last surprise awaits us.  OUR BATTERY IS DEAD!  Perfect bookends for the trip: luggage lost on arrival, dead battery on return!!  But the shuttle driver comes back and jumps it (after the four of us push the Explorer out of the parking stall for better access) and we’re soon on our way.  Vacation is officially over, if somewhat unceremoniously.

Epilogue:

After 7 YEARS of wishing, literally hours of reading the discussion board, and frequent dreams about visiting the island that my wife and I enjoyed so much, we FINALLY made it back to Cozumel.  I’ve envied all of you who have been such frequent visitors and have avidly read your trip reports, studied your suggestions and lived vicariously through your comments and experiences since I’ve found Travelnotes.  (And thank God for Travelnotes!)  The story of why we’ve been prevented from visiting until now is too long a tale to write and the details aren’t all that interesting.  But I can honestly tell you that this trip was a victory of sorts for me personally.  It was the culmination of overcoming some serious obstacles that faced my small business, and while many still remain, the ability to return to something I’ve had my sights on for so long was vindication of sorts.  To be able to experience it again and especially to share it with my children has been a great joy.  And for me to FINALLY be able to share my own experiences with the rest of you who find a special delight in visiting this very special place has been a privilege.  I hope I’ve not been too long-winded and that you’ve been able to feel some of the same enjoyment I’ve received from your reports in mine.  Thanks for your kind comments and for sticking with me!  

Next, I may just get brave and try some picture posts!

Here’s to everyone’s NEXT TRIP!!

CozAl


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