Today is

*Online Specials*

*Discussion Boards
Cozumel Chatters Central
Cozumel Scuba Central  

Travelers Info
Air Travelers
Mainland Travelers
Cruise Ship Passengers
Crew Members

Cozumel Island
About Cozumel
Holidays & Events
Getting There
Cancun to Cozumel
Weather
Exchange Rates

Accommodations
Choosing a Place
Hotels
Vacation Properties
Vacation Rentals Online
Bed & Breakfast
Diving/Hotel Packages

Water Activities
Scuba Diving
Scuba Dive Shops
Snorkeling
Deep Sea Fishing
Other Water Activities
Reefs
Beaches
Marine Park Rules

Island Guides
Beaches
Nightlife
Restaurants
Shopping
Food

Adventure Tours
All Adventure Tours
Jungle Jeep Tours
Horseback Riding Tours
Snorkel Tours
Scuba Diving Tours
Deep Sea Fishing
Cenote Snorkel Tours
Cenote Diving Tours
Jungle Bike Tours
Jungle Trek Tours

Tours/Sight Seeing
Special Attractions
Tours/Excursions
Island Tours
Day Excursions  

Mayan Ruins
San Gervasio
Chichen Itza
Ek Balam
Tulum
Coba

Ecological Parks
Chankanaab
Crococun Crocodile Park
Tres Rios
Xcaret
Xel-Ha
Cenotes
Xpu-Ha
Sian Ka'an Biosphere
Punta Laguna

More Services
Specialty Services
Car/Vehicle Rentals
Getting Married
Real Estate
Travel Agencies
Tour Operators
Emergency Info
Great Links

100's of Recent Reviews
Trip Reports  
Lodging Reviews
Things to Do Reviews
Dive Shop Reviews
Restaurant Reviews
Mayan Tour Reviews

Travel Essentials
Travel Tips
Packing List
Taxi Fares
Ferry Schedule
Spanish Lessons
Photo Gallery
Consulates

About Travel Notes
Advertise
Affilate Program

Contact Us

Cozumel Trip Report
Posted by Diane Noelle on 08/28/01

(This report covers the July trip of Jim Forté and Diane Noelle (pronounced “Noel” like the Christmas carol).  I sincerely apologize for the delay, but I have been very busy being the proud new aunt of twin boys.  Congratulations, Phil and Lisa!)      

We’re Finally Here!  

We arrive via an evening flight on Continental Airlines, but that doesn’t stop me from looking for miniature lights in the distance, and grabbing Jim’s hand and saying, “Is that it?  Is that Cozumel?”  Poor guy, and he has to put up with this for how many days?  I have been to Cozumel once before, several years ago on a family vacation with my parents and my three brothers, but this is my first “adult” trip here, and most importantly, my first trip as a diver!

A perfect landing, and into the new, brightly colored terminal to begin the wait at customs.  I’m deliriously happy.  What wait?  How can one possibly be bothered at a time like this?  Green light and we’re off!

All the way to Villa Forté I’m smiling and wide-eyed, taking everything in.  I think by now Jim is pondering whether he’s made a grave mistake in bringing me here and is probably wondering if Stephanie has an extra room at HSM!  He points out all the sights, the hotels, the dive shops, and Plaza Las Glorias - where we turn onto the road that leads to the neighborhood where the villa is located.  For those who are familiar with Alicia’s B&B, Villa Forté is in the same neighborhood just a few blocks away.  I’ve seen plenty of pictures, but I’ve never seen it in person before, and I am so excited as we pull up to the white villa, peacefully set behind wrought-iron gates for privacy, and a little green yard.  Wow!  I am home.

We pass through two adjacent arches and onto the patio before we reach the front doors, which Jim had handcrafted by a local Mayan artesian – Romero.  They are made out of a blonde wood and open French-door style into the house.  The first thought I have once inside is “Wow!  Open…airy…I like that!”  I step into the dining room and onto the tile floor, which is strewn here and there with Mexican rugs, and I know that I have arrived in Mexico!  

Jim takes my hand and begins the tour through the dining room, which is completely open to the sunken living room (complete with CD player and TV/VCR that would provide some “interesting” entertainment during the Villa Forté party the following Saturday!).  Without a doubt, the centerpiece of the house is the exquisite huge coffee table in the living room, which was also hand crafted by Romero in the same blonde wood, and is detailed in beautiful Mayan carvings along its sides.  On the top of the table, under a piece of glass, is an incredible nautical map of Cozumel and the surrounding reefs.  We would sit by it each day, and look at where we had been on dives, and where we would go the next day.  Incredible.

The kitchen is huge, equipped with all the necessities, and two refrigerators.  One is full sized, and can hold plenty of food for the week, the other holds the complimentary case of Sol cerveza that Jim tells me is always stocked at the Villa.  Now, I’ve never stayed in a villa before, so I find all of this fascinating.  Jim is watching me this whole time, smiling, but he knows better than to laugh at me, and continues with his tour.

There is a sunroom that is open to the sky, and has two lines on which to hang wet dive gear or swimsuits.  I comment that this would be a great spot for sunbathing au naturel and Jim just shakes his head.  (In actuality, it is probably WAY to warm to sunbathe there when the sun is pouring down, but it does serve as a great place to dry gear.)  

The master bedroom has a king sized bed and overlooks the living room, separated by bi-fold louvers like found on a picture window, again handcrafted by Romero, and in the evenings they can be closed for privacy, while during the day they open up to the brightness of the rest of the villa.  Very nice!

The second bedroom, across the hall, is also very large and bright, and has two double beds.  All of the beds are hand crafted, as well, and the personal touch really adds to the house.  

I quickly discover that the villa is also equipped with three air conditioners, which can keep it icy cool, but I am forever turning them down, as Jim likes to keep them blasting!

Although more than ready to tear around the island exploring, we are exhausted from traveling, and decide to call it a night.

Day One – Breakfast at the Museum, the Dive Shop, and the East Side

I awaken not knowing where I am, of course, but marveling at the absolute silence.  I’m shocked to discover it is 9 AM already.  Wow!  I could get used to this!

For as long as I can remember, I have wanted to have breakfast at the Museum.  We get there about 11 AM, and have the entire restaurant to ourselves, except for one other family.  Perfect!  

We sit at a table overlooking the street.  It is a Saturday, and I don’t recall that there are any ships in, although I could be wrong, but the town is so quiet and sleepy.  My thoughts turn to Robin and Christi who will be coming in the following Friday, and I am already so excited about seeing them again!  I’m also eagerly anticipating seeing Ron Lee, Stephanie, and Angela, which will take place much sooner.  I keep staring out over the pristine blue water and thinking “Am I really here?”  I’m still not sure!  

We walk over to Aguila to pick up our tracker, and head down to the dive shop.  Jim has been friends with Mike and Margaret at Papa Hogs for years, and is bringing me to meet them and to arrange the schedule for my open water certification.  I had decided to do the entire course on the island.  Even though many people suggest doing the classroom and pool work at home first, I found it much less stressful to do the entire course there, as opposed to trying to cram the prerequisites into my already overloaded life at home, prior to the vacation.  It did take up almost four days of the vacation, but we were there for ten, and I knew that this was the right decision for me.  Plus, much of that time I was in the water diving, and it’s hard to complain about spending time that way!  Each individual needs to decide the certification process that best fits their life.  (More on the certification later.)

We leave the dive shop and head over to the east side.  I am SO excited, as I’ve read so much about it, but never experienced it.  

We start at Mezcalito’s, and, yes, I agree that they have the best Margarita on the Island!  I would place them in a tie with Pancho’s Backyard, but Mezcalito’s has the edge, because of the wonderful clay cups that they serve theirs in.  Very good!

Taking in all of the sights along the way, we head towards Coconuts, as I am eagerly anticipating reaching the turtle hatchery there!  The area is fenced off and there are dozens of markers in the sand, several surrounded by a protective mesh wire, where the babies are presumably about to hatch.  They are still under the sand, but just being that close makes the Original Turtle Babe very happy!

We go up the hill to Coconuts for a drink, say hello to the coconut lady, and – wow!  Gorgeous!  What can I say?  Those who have been there know, those who have yet to go will find out!

We sit overlooking the cliff sipping a “so-so” Margarita (it’s tough to top perfection).  I think I eventually give mine to Jim, although I can’t exactly remember!  Run over to the turtle nesting area one more time, knowing that I will be back, and we are on our way.

By now it’s getting pretty hot, and I am ready for a swim in the turquoise water that beckons.  We pass Chen Rio and Playa Bonita, which although gorgeous, have a few too many people on them (we’re looking for seclusion, and while neither place is actually crowded, they just aren’t what we’re looking for at this time).  We end up pulling off a ways past Playa Bonita to a lovely deserted stretch we have now designated “Playa Bonita South” and make our way down to the beach, and bolt into the incredible water.  THIS is what I had dreamed the east side would be like!  No one to be seen on either side of us, just long expanses of beach.  Play in the silky water doing back flips and handstands.  Yeah, I’m in heaven now!  (Chas, is this close to Nirvana?)

After quite a while, I reluctantly agree to leave the water, although it’s a chore for Jim to get me out.  We head back to the tracker, and we’re off to Bob’s Marley.  I’m so excited to be here, that I don’t notice how the cement area surrounding the bar meets the sand.  Be careful!  I slam my toe into it, and go flying toward the bar.  Very graceful, Diane Noelle!  OUCH!  Nothing that a little Malibu won’t fix, right?  Wrong!  Swollen, blue toe for the entire vacation.  Now how am I going to get this unruly thing into a bootie?

We hang at the bar for a while and then go for a wonderful walk on the beach.  The sun is starting to set, and I look toward the blow hole and see that there’s a half dressed couple on the beach (and we’re talking swimwear here, folks) who appear to be getting very friendly, so we decide it’s time to call it a day, and head on back toward Villa Forté in order to get showered and ready for the evening.  We have a big night planned, because we are heading to the Hacienda San Miguel (HSM from hereon out) to see Stephanie, and to drop off gifts for her and her kitties, and to deliver Angela’s Godiva truffles.

It’s later than we’d like when we arrive at HSM, probably about 10 PM or so, but there Stephanie is behind the desk, as we open the door to the office.  This is so neat!  Steph and I have been corresponding for months via email and chat, and I am so excited about finally meeting her, and consider her a close friend already.  “Stephanie?  I’m Diane Noelle, and this is Jim Forté.”  Wow!  Big hugs all around.  What an incredible moment!  Similar moments would be repeated throughout the trip, as we’d meet other friends from Travel Notes.  

We sit and talk with Stephanie for probably close to an hour, and she shows us some of the rooms at HSM.  Most of you are familiar with HSM, but for those who aren’t, it is absolutely lovely, a garden setting with a fountain that greets you, and very, very, charming rooms.  All have a kitchenette, great tiling on the floor, lovely bathrooms, and great beds.  The whole place is covered with Mexican touches here and there, and it is an absolute steal for the money.  Fantastic place to stay.

Stephanie is about to get off work and we make plans to meet her and Felipe later at Prima.  We haven’t eaten yet, and we’re famished, but by the time we get to Prima the doors have been closed, and we realize our gathering with Steph and Felipe will have to wait until the following Saturday at the Villa Forté party.  

We head to the French Quarter, which Jim assures me will still be open for us, and he is right!  We’re greeted by his old friend and owner of the FQ, Mike, and he leads us to an outdoor table in the corner, overlooking the quiet street.  I immediately love this place, not just because Mike has made me feel so welcome, but because the ambiance is incredible!  Candles on the tables, twinkling white lights, a gentle evening breeze.  Very nice!  Oh, and the best part?  We have the whole place to ourselves!  Now, Jim, how do you keep arranging these things?

We have a great dinner, share a bottle of wine, say our goodbyes, and then head sleepily back to the Villa.  An absolutely incredible and full first day!

Day Two – the Diving Begins!  We meet Angela and Ron Lee, and dinner at Prima

We head right over to Papa Hogs, and in no time I’m in the water next to the dock with Mike “Papa Hog”.  He is so patient with me as I am learning, even reaching for my hand when he sees that in all the excitement and newness, I’m a little nervous.  In the afternoon after Jim returns from his boat dives, we each don another tank at the shore, and being as Jim is a certified divemaster, he is able to continue with my training under Mike’s watchful eye.

We finally climb out of the water around 4 PM, and I’m sitting, near exhaustion, next to Jorge’s gear room on the dock, while Jim is rinsing the gear.  This will be the only time I won’t help with this process, because I have insisted all along that if I am going to learn to dive, I am going to carry my own weight.  (Pun somewhat intended :o))  All of a sudden this guy comes out of nowhere and says to Jorge “Where do you sign up for dives?”  I know immediately who it is.  “Ron?”  I’m in his arms instantly, completely forgetting that I am still wearing my wet suit down at my waist and that I am dripping wet, my hair just hanging wet down over my shoulders.  I call this my “drowned rat look” and I’m horrified that this is the first impression he gets of me!  I have since learned that this is actually the “diver’s look” (thanks Original Kim, Angela and Suzbo!) and that I am supposed to be proud when I look this way.  

Ron forgives me for getting him all wet and we have a nice chat and I learn that Angela is over at the Hog Town waiting for a burger.  Cool!  We head on over and find Angela, and collect even more hugs!  This is getting to be fun.    

Later we head into the square for the Sunday night festivities, walk around for a while taking everything in, and then walk over to Prima for dinner.  They’re open this time!  Now I don’t intend to describe what we ate at every meal, but this one is worth mentioning.  The service is world-class, as good as you’ll find at the best restaurants in San Francisco.  We want for absolutely nothing.  The atmosphere is lovely – rooftop, candles on the tables, warm breeze, aroma of garlic – I’m in heaven!  It is very busy, of course, and the manager is so gracious and accommodating, and seats us temporarily at a table in the middle of the restaurant with the promise that he will move us to one of the more private tables on the edge of the patio, overlooking the street, within minutes.  He delivers, and before our drinks even reach us, we have moved.

We start with incredible salads, Jim has the fresh mozzarella and tomato, and I have the mixed green salad, whose name does not do it justice.  We share, and they are both amazing.  For dinner Jim has the lobster-stuffed ravioli, and I have the angel hair with tomato, basil, feta, and mushrooms.  WOW!  Both are out of this world.  We order a bottle of Mexican white wine, as we want something local (well, kind of local), and it is wonderful – very light and enjoyable – perfect with our entrées.  Sipping a brandy over dessert, I gaze over at the two predominant landmarks across from Prima – Pro Dive on one corner of the street, and Michelle’s Dive Shop on the other.  Both are beautiful, glittering in-town shops, and I once again ask myself if this is reality and if I am really about to join the incredible world of diving.  I wonder if those two shops have ever looked so beautiful before.

Another extraordinary day closes in paradise.

Day Three – More Skills, my First Real Dive, and Dinner at Manati!

We’re up early and at the dive shop before 8 AM for a wonderful French toast breakfast at the Hog Town.  Now I am ready to dive!  Ron Lee is already at the dock and we talk for a few minutes before his boat leaves.  I’m also there to greet him when his boat returns later in the day, and I wonder if he realized that this personalized service was included in the price of diving with Papa Hogs?

This is the day that I meet Felix – a wonderful divemaster who walks up to me on the pier after seeing me with Jim and says, “Are you here diving with your parents?”  Uh….  Now that’s embarrassing!  Jim – who Felix has known for years, but has never seen me with before – comes up behind me and wraps his arms around me rather seductively, and suddenly Felix breaks out into a huge smile, as he realizes I’m not Jim’s daughter!   It is actually a very funny moment, one that we are still laughing about.  Felix would later serenade us through his regulator while we are diving and every time he sees me crossing the road from the Hog Town to the pier, he’s there whistling at me.  He’s a great guy.  We have a lot of fun with him and with the other divemasters at Papa Hogs, often bringing them a cold cerveza following our dives.  

I work on more skills, do some class work with Margaret, and have a wonderful quesadilla lunch.  Jim and I then decide to go out on a shore dive and we head out to Villa Blanca Shallow, and it is here that I experience my first “real dive”.  At first Jim is holding my hand and keeping me close, but after a little while I realize that this constant hand holding, although very loving, is holding me back.  I shake my hand free from his, and I’m off on my own to discover the world that is waiting for me.  Jim says it is at that moment, when I took my hand from his, that he knew I had become a diver.  What a beautiful sentiment, Jim.  Thank you.

What seems like only ten minutes passes and Jim is signaling me that it is time to head back to the dock.  What?  Already?  Can’t be!  Once we surface I say to him “Why did we have to come up so early?”  To which he replies “We were down there for forty-one minutes, Diane!”  OH!  What’s that saying about time flying when you’re having fun?  He’s created a monster and he knows he’s in trouble now!

Tonight we head to Manati.  This is another place I have read so much about and have been eagerly anticipating.  Many of you know how special Manati is, and we’re greeted by Leo the owner, with whom I’ve exchanged posts on the Travel Notes board and have been looking forward to meeting for some time.  Jim has evidently, once again, called ahead and reserved the entire restaurant for us.  Now, Manati is small, with just about 8 or so tables down stairs (both inside and on the patio) and a few more located upstairs in the new addition that Leo recently added.  There is a table with patrons upstairs, so we opt for the wonderful patio in the back.  Intimate and romantic – perfect.  The selection of music is wonderful, and by great coincidence, by unusual artists that both Jim and I enjoy.  

For dinner I have the spinach lasagna, which is legendary on the message board and throughout Cozumel, and Jim has the Mahi Mahi.  We both start with the warm oriental salad, which is also amazing.  Coconut ice cream covered in Kahlua, and key lime pie for desert.  Once again, WOW!

We chat with Leo on and off throughout the evening, and as many of you are also aware, the restaurant is not always open due to a tragic circumstance within his family, which as Thorsten pointed out in his earlier report, is not appropriate for discussion in a trip report, but is, nonetheless, very real and very serious.  If Manati is not open on a day that you go by, please, try back another day.  It is well worth the wait, and your business is much appreciated.  We leave a huge tip with Leo as he walks us out to the car, because we feel that the service, food and companionship, have made the evening extraordinary.

Day Four – My Open Water Dives, we Meet Kiki, & LaCocay w/Mike & Margaret

We’re up early for breakfast at the Hog Town.  I have the Mexican eggs, which are awesome!  Not for the faint of heart, because they are quite spicy, but if you like hot food, then you should not miss them!

I do my skills check out dive with Mike in the morning and spend some more class time with Margaret.  Ron Lee and Angela drop by the Hog Town for lunch and while we’re all sitting around talking and laughing, the girl at the next table turns to us suddenly and says, “Are you Jim and Diane?  I’m Kiki from the Travel Notes board!”  Cool!  We were supposed to meet at the Chatters’ meeting at Mini-golf on Thursday, and then again at the Villa Forté party the following Saturday, but this is much better!  I’m really beginning to love these moments.  We all hang out for a while and then it is time for my first boat dive!  

It’s just Mike, Jim and myself on the boat, and the dive at Paradise goes flawlessly.  I stay by Mike’s side, mirroring him, as he points out a few huge barracuda and grouper.  Now I do find all of this fascinating, but I’m also thinking “How am I doing?  I don’t have time to be gawking at the fish right now, Mike!  Save that for later!”  We surface, and I have done it, and I am thrilled!

Back at the dive shop he returns me to Margaret and says to her “She has excellent buoyancy.”  I am ecstatic, but the highest compliment is yet to come from him later that night.

That evening the four of us head to LaCocay for dinner.  LaCocay is located in the Corpus Christi neighborhood and is lovely.  While it is not cheap, the atmosphere is sophisticated – intimate lighting, candles, soft jazz playing - which is nice being as we have all decided to dress a little.  (Richard, if you’re out there, Jim wore long pants!)  Margaret is leaving for a trip to Canada the next day, and we want this dinner to be special.  Following the meal, we move out to the patio for a brandy.  Not just any brandy, but we open the bottle of Metaxa brandy imported from Greece, that Jim has brought Mike from the United States.  It’s Mike’s favorite, and he is very pleased with the gift his old friend has brought him.  I just sip on mine and watch as the other three enjoy cigars.  Under some pretty intense peer pressure, I try a puff off of one, but that is it.  This is one of those things that I just don’t “get”.  Maybe it’s an age thing, who knows, and I stick to my brandy.  

The conversation turns to my check out dives earlier that day, and Mike describes them for Margaret saying, “I was 6 inches off the sand, she was 6 inches off the sand.  I was 6 inches off the reef, she was 6 inches off the reef.”  And then he says what makes me so proud – “She’s a great diver.”  

Pinch me someone, please.

Day Five – Certified Diver!  Chankanaab Bolones, Villa Blanca Wall,  & Night Dive!

(Plus, Jim and I get married and don’t even know it!)

The alarm goes off at 6:45, once again, and I greet the day with so much excitement, for all I can think about are the dives we are going on!  

Morning sun is pouring into the villa as it does for 10 days straight (I forgot to mention that we had absolutely perfect weather for the entire trip, except for showers one evening and the following morning.), and I stand in the kitchen hunting down food, counting my unbelievable blessings in life.  It feels so peaceful here, in this wonderful casa tucked away in a little neighborhood in Mexico.  I can’t quite explain what I’m feeling, maybe it is just happiness, maybe serenity, maybe a combination of both, but whatever it is, I will not forget it.

To the Hog Town for breakfast, and we’re off to Chankanaab Bolones for our first dive.  It is absolutely beautiful, and I am amazed.  The coral heads are out of this world and we see several barracuda and grouper.  One of the barracudas is munching on his morning breakfast of a smaller fish, and Jim keeps getting closer and closer to him until they are only a few feet apart, staring each other in the face.  Crazy man, I think!  I do my first swim through, and I’m thrilled.  Toward the end of the dive I am struck by the breathtaking colors on the reef.  There are reds, and purples, and golds everywhere, and that isn’t even taking into account the fish!  As I’m staring in amazement all I can think of is that I am seeing the equivalent of a natural underwater treasure.  I was not prepared for all of the riches I would find amongst the reefs.

Next, we’re off to Villa Blanca Wall.  Wow, this is cool!  The current is ripping and it really feels like we are flying.  We see an eagle ray and several huge stoplight parrotfish.  I love the portion of the dive when we cross over the power lines that supply the island.  

I am watching Felix, the divemaster, and at one point he comes up on a “hill” (sorry, I know that’s probably not the technical term), and at the top of it, he spreads his arms wide, and the current picks him up and carries him down over the other side.  Always one to pay attention, I follow suit, and, wow!  It feels just like being on a roller coaster!  COOL!!

Back on the boat I explain to Jim that I think I might be overweighted, because although I don’t put any air in my BC on the dives, and control my buoyancy entirely by lung capacity, I feel that I am needing to retain more air in my lungs than I think should be necessary in order to remain neutral, and that I might be wasting it as a result.  He looks at me and I can tell he’s impressed, but at the time I don’t understand why, of course.  He just breaks into a huge grin, and says, “Yes, we need to adjust your weight.”    

What a morning, and it gets better!  As the boat is pulling up the Papa Hog’s dock, Mike is standing there and greets us with “Want to do a night dive tonight?  She’s ready.”  Heck, yes!

That afternoon I take the written final exam, jump off the pier into the water to swim a heck of a long way for Mike, tread water, and emerge a certified diver!  YAY!!!

We’re not quite sure about whether to have dinner before or after the dive, and we decide to remedy the situation by hitting Chedraui and making something for ourselves at home.
 
We make a wonderful homemade pizza in the oven at the villa, and while I am chopping up the ingredients, I start really noticing the tiles on the wall in the kitchen.  Now this may sound silly and you may just think “Well, yeah, you’re in Mexico, what did you expect?”, but I am really struck by how authentic it makes the room feel.  They are a light tan with tiny brown specks, shiny, and have pictures of colorful Mexican vegetables on them.  I can picture kneading dough and rolling out tortillas here with no problem, and I am overcome with the feeling that it has most certainly been done in that manner here at an earlier time.  Making the meal is a very enjoyable experience, and the next time we are down, I definitely want to cook more meals at home.  I love being able to just walk around in my robe after a shower, putting dinner together at our own pace.  Oh!  The pizza’s incredible, by the way!

We head back to the dive shop for the night dive at Paradise.  What an awesome dive!  Multiple lobsters, crabs, two octopi, two snowflake eels, and best of all – a seahorse!  I am so excited and I keep trying to yell to Jim through my regulator “It’s a seahorse!  It’s a seahorse!”  Not that Jim isn’t perfectly capable of seeing that for himself, but it just seems more exciting when I am telling him!  :o)

As we are ascending to the boat I realize I have forgotten to check out the bioluminescence of the plankton, so I get busy swishing my arms through the water.  Unbelievable!  Glittering little lights everywhere!  Next time I won’t wait until the end of the dive!

I am cold on the boat ride back to the pier and Jim wraps his arms around me and I lean my head back against him and look up at the beautiful stars in the sky.  I feel so secure and so happy.  I don’t want to get off the boat.

Off to an internet café to check email and to see what is going on with all of our friends back home at Travel Notes, and we are very surprised to discover a post announcing that we have gotten married!  Those who follow the board on a regular basis now know what happened, but let’s just say that it was an erroneous posting.  We have great fun with it for the rest of the week, though, joking about being able to get married in Cozumel without even having to be there, and about being on our honeymoon now.      

Once back at the Villa we try to decide how to spend our “wedding night”, and settle on sitting outside on the patio, having a Sol or two, and some of the Godiva truffles we have brought down as a treat for ourselves, in addition to the box we brought for Angela, and just enjoy the evening air.

Day Six – Just when I thought we couldn’t possibly pack more into a day:

San Francisco Wall, Yucab, Pearl’s Wedding Reception at Mezcalito’s, Chatters’ Meeting at Mini-golf, Pancho’s Backyard.

We brought our gear back with us after the night dive, as opposed to leaving it at the dive shop in a locker, because we want it to be dry for our dive the following morning.  Now a word of warning – even the best laid out sunroom and gear racks cannot be successful in drying your gear if it rains!  And did it ever!  So much for a dry wetsuit!  

Breakfast at the Hog Town (seeing a pattern yet?), and we’re off to the Reef Club to pick up another couple who will be diving with us.  They’re about my age, and very sweet, and we have a wonderful time getting to know them on the way out to the dive site, San Francisco Wall.  They are both brand new divers, as well, and are very relieved to find out that I have also just been certified and admit that they feel a little nervous.  Jim talks with them, and helps them to feel more comfortable, and we were all backrolling off in no time.

It is a great dive, the current isn’t too strong, and we go to a depth of 95 feet.  Now for a couple that was nervous going into the dive, I’d say they certainly are holding their own!

The surface interval is back at the Reef Club, which is great because they go and bring us all back a nice plate of fruit and croissants.  Just what we need, and very convenient!  

The second dive is at Yucab.  This dive is extraordinary!  The series of coral heads one right after the next are amazing, and exquisitely beautiful!  There are tons and tons of little tiny blue and purple fish everywhere (sorry, I don't know the ID's yet), and the coral formations are spectacular.  Absolutely fantastic color, and a true feast for the senses.  The current is perfect that day, very gentle – just enough.  What an incredible dive.  Words cannot possibly do it justice.  Jim loves this dive too.

After the dive, we head over to Mezcalito’s for Pearl’s wedding reception, and stop first at the Diamond Café for lunch on our way through town.  Located right across from the Mini-golf, this place is awesome!  They are open for breakfast, lunch and dinner, and the menu is huge!  They have every kind of specialty coffee you could ever ask for (I have iced cappuccino), many, many, sandwiches, salads, soups, full entrées, desserts, you name it.  I HIGHLY recommend this place.  Jim says the gazpacho is some of the best he’s ever had, and both of us are blown away by how delicious and fresh everything is.  The décor is also wonderful, with a delicate tile floor with little flowers painted on the tiles, bright yellow walls, green bistro-style tables and chairs, and great air conditioning.  We would come back repeatedly if I didn’t have so many “must try” restaurants on my list.  Next time, for sure.

Off to hunt down Pearl and her new husband Jim, we find them happy as can be at Mezcalito’s.  What a great couple!  We have drinks with them and exchange stories of the joys and difficulties of owning a home on the island; all the while watching the waves crash in over the beach.  It is a great afternoon.      

Already knowing we are running late, in order to make the Chatters’ meeting we fly home, in and out of the shower, and arrive just a mere 60 minutes late at Mini-golf.  Fortunately everyone is still there, and we drop off our treats for Sunshine, Sally and Scott (the Milanos are for both of you!) and join the others.  We have a great time sharing sangria and talking with our Travel Notes friends.  

The crowd begins to thin after some great conversation and sharing, and we make plans to dive with Kiki on Saturday before the party, and head off to Pancho’s Backyard for dinner.  It is late, so Los Cinco Soles is closed, which is a big disappointment.  During the entire time we are on the island, we do not set foot in one store other than Chedraui!  Cinco Soles was going to be our one chance to look around a little.  Nevertheless, dinner at Pancho’s is incredible, and once again, after a few minutes we have the entire place to ourselves.  Pancho’s is beautiful, and the food and service are fantastic.  Definitely order a margarita!  

I go off to sleep that night dreaming about the day to follow.  We are diving Santa Rosa Wall in the morning, which I had been eagerly anticipating all week, and are picking up Texrobin and Christi, and Jim’s son, Jason, at the airport in the afternoon.  I can’t wait to see them all!

Day 7 – Santa Rosa Wall and Cedral; Robin, Christi, and Jason Arrive; Guido’s.

I awaken with the same euphoric feeling that I am becoming accustomed to, and bounce out of bed and into my bikini.  We are off to Santa Rosa, and I know I will not be disappointed!  

The current is quite strong and the coral formations are amazing.  It is an absolutely beautiful dive.  We have arranged ahead of time with Mike and the divemaster that Jim and I will split from the group, and we head into the abyss to 130 feet, while the others stay at about 90.  It is as if the two of us, alone, are floating into another universe.  I am full of awe, and acutely aware of how extraordinary what we are doing is.  

We rejoin the group at 90 feet and do a series of spectacular multi-level swim throughs.  To my absolute delight, we spot a nurse shark, which, unfortunately, is sleeping, but it is still a shark, nonetheless!

We had begun taking weight out of my belt on the dives the day before and I am down to six pounds now.  I am much more comfortable, and buoyancy seems almost effortless, and I emerge from the dive with 1300 psi still remaining in my tank.  Yup, I had been over weighted in the past!            

The surface interval is on a deserted beach, and then we are off to Cedral.  Cedral is loaded with creatures and I feel like I have dropped into a giant aquarium because the fish are so huge and so near.  At times I am face to face with grouper and jack, and huge stoplight parrotfish, and they are everywhere swimming around the divers, not just below us.  We count 7 barracuda, and guess what?  They ARE afraid of us!  One is facing us head on, in all of his toothy glory, and as we get closer to him, he takes off!  So it is true!

Esteban, our fantastic divemaster, coaxes an octopus out for us, and he is clinging to a conch shell, which appears to serve as his door.  Esteban manages to gently wrestle it away from him, and in an adorable show, the octopus sticks one tentacle out trying to get it back, and then another, over and over.  He appears to be very playful and funny.  What the octopus actually thinks of all of this, I’m not sure, but in the end, he gets his door back.

Next we come across a nurse shark that is swimming along the reef.  He is just a few feet below us, but I am still a little worried about touching him.  Jim, on the other hand, isn’t about to make this mistake, and reaches his hand down and touches the shark’s body as it swims by him.  I think he really enjoys it!

Another incredible experience, and I ascend from the dive a very happy woman.

After lunch at the Hog Town, we are off to the airport to pick up Robin and Christi.  This is to a reunion for all of us, as we have previously met, and we are so much looking forward to spending time with them on the island.  Little do we know at the time that Christi’s three-night stay will turn into a permanent one!  

We bring some Sol’s for all of us to enjoy on the ride over to the Hacienda San Miguel where Robin and Christi are staying, but, of course, I am too busy running my mouth off in excitement to remember to hand them out, and before we know it, we are parked in front of their home for the weekend.  We compensate by kidnapping Stephanie from the office, and going to Robin and Christi’s room where we then pour the Sol’s all around.

Eager to see friends of theirs, we drop Robin and Christi at Sol Cabanas del Caribe, and make plans to hook up later that evening at Guido’s.  Back to the airport to pick up Jason, and discover his plane is delayed, so we head over to Guido’s for a wonderful dinner.  It’s very busy, and understandably so!  Great atmosphere in an open-air courtyard, excellent food, and a very romantic spot.  Robin and Christi arrive and Jim leaves to pick up Jason, and the three girls somehow end up with a pitcher of Sangria sitting in front of us that we haven’t ordered.  Oh well…what else is there to do?  We each have a few glasses of Sangria!

We head over to Cactus to meet up with Jim and Jason for a drink, and then I head home with the two Forté men as chaperones, and Robin and Christi head out to meet friends.

Day 8 – Turtle Mission.  Palancar Gardens, Columbia Shallow, Villa Forté Party!

(This is the day I finally meet Turt L.  Tom, are you reading this?)
       
We meet up with Kiki at the Papa Hogs pier, and she, Jim, Jason and I head out in search of turtles.  This is the one creature that I have not yet seen, and I know I can’t leave Cozumel without accomplishing it!  

First dive is Palancar Gardens.  Majestic coral formations and overhangs that make me feel very tiny, and awesome swim throughs.  Still no turtles though!

Off to Columbia Shallow and we are not into the dive more than five minutes when Jim spots one and is pointing frantically at it.  Well, that is all the encouragement I need, and I take off at full speed.  I manage to get close enough to run my hand over its shell, and I am completely spellbound.  Wow!

Later in the dive we spot another turtle breathing on the surface, and it is absolutely beautiful watching him from below.  We also see three lobsters, grouper, and three eagle rays.  It is an amazing last dive and we have a great time talking with Kiki and Jason during the surface interval and riding to and from the pier.

We head back to Villa Forté to make up a batch of Jim’s incredible green salsa and some queso.  It is a late crowd for sure, with people showing up about 9 PM or so, and we have a wonderful evening with Sol’s, Margarita’s and rum punches (just for Christi!) flowing, while enjoying the company of friends, both old and new.  We are very excited to meet Glassman (Greg) from the board, and his beautiful lady, Liliana, as well as his business partner Jim and his wife Susan.  (Try to remember to stop by their gallery, Galleria Azul, on your next visit!)  We close the evening with a wonderful extended conversation with Stephanie and Felipe, who are the last to leave at about 2:30 AM.  Thank you, everyone, for coming.  We enjoyed having you!

Day 9 – San Gervasio, the East Side, Plaza Leza

We sleep until about 11 AM, and following a visit with Robin and Christi, we head out to San Gervasio.  

We have a great time making our way through the ruins, and this is definitely a place that I want to come back when it is earlier in the day and we have more time.  It is full of history and is so peaceful.  Just walking through the woods between the ruins is nothing short of magical.  

Our next stop is Mezcalito’s for lunch (can you call it lunch at 5:30 PM?), and we are delighted to find Pearl and her husband there again, as well as Robin and a friend, swinging in a hammock on the beach.  Wonderful!  I say to Robin “Did you meet Pearl?” and she says “No!”  They were about fifteen feet away from each other the whole time and never would have known it.  Mike “Papa Hog” shows up with Blanca, and he and Jim drink cervezas, while I catch up with Robin and her friend by their hammock on the beach.  What a great impromptu gathering it is!  

Back to the Villa to shower for dinner and we head to Plaza Leza.  It is Sunday evening, once again, and the festivities in the square are in full swing.  We have a wonderful dinner overlooking the square and listening to the band.  Plaza Leza is a great Sunday evening spot!  Kiki walks by and spots us, so we chat with her for a few minutes, say our goodbyes and then head over to the French Quarter for a nightcap.  The indoor bar at the FQ has great décor and is a wonderful place in which to end yet another incredible day.

Day 10 – Our last, but we’ll be back in a few months!

We take care of the usual last day activities, settle up with the dive shop, return the tracker and head out to the airport.  We board our Continental flight on time, already discussing our plans to return in November and December.  

Gazing out the window as we ascend, I look down onto the reefs and am acutely aware of the profound experiences I have encountered, and the world that I now have the honor and thrill of being a part of, and I know that my life will never again be the same.

back to top