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Cozumel Trip Report
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Posted by Dogood on 05/08/02

El Presidente Inter-Continental Cozumel
 
Click for photos & hotel info & secured reservations online

Trip report Day 1

This may be long, so I'll try to tell you what I can now, but I may have to go back to work before the end of the day.  Uneventful departure and flight. Thankfully!  We arrived at 11:30 and were at the Presidente by noon.  We had several people in the van that were meeting the cruise ships that were in the port.  They were cruisemembers.  I haven't seen that before.  Our room wasn't ready so we changed clothes and made our way to the beach.  There is something so relaxing about listening to the water lap up on the shore.  It took us all of about 2 second to go  Ahhhh!  As quickly as the world can slap you in the face with chaos, Coz can put the breaks on and slow you down. It is a welcomed releif.  We start with Ceviche, Guacomole, Salsa a la Mexicana and of course a cocktail with an umbrella.  All are wonderful.  I have never been to this hotel so I go exploring.  Wow, it is much bigger than I expected.  And there were absolutely no people there.  I'm serious maybe 100 rooms occupied.  Course that isn't a problem for me.  The fewer the better. So we head off to the far left beach area where there is about 50 yards of sand, palapas,lounge chairs and hammocks and 2 people.  I definitely can get used to this.  We hate crowds.  There are ladders in several locations for easy access to the water and you can enter from the sloping shore area.  We relax for an hour or so until my husband volunteers to check on the room and go unpack.  Now you have to appreciate the significance of this.  I am considered the Master of all Packers and have now been proclaimed the Designated Packer for all trips.  I think it is just a way for my husband to avoid the duty, the same as going out to dinner keeps him from washing dishes.  Anyway, he volunteered and there is no way I'm feeling guilty about letting him go unpack while I lounge in the hammock.  The hammock is in a spot where you can watch boats come into the marina next to the hotel.  While I did get some hollers and whistles, I mostly enjoyed seeing all the activity and the boats.  After being bitten by one too many bugs I couldn't see I decide to go clean up and see how my husband handled the unpacking.  He has done a stellar job and I have now decided this is his responsibility from now on.  The room is quite acceptable with a beautiful view of the ocean.  The furniture and linens aren't really any different than any other place in Mexico I have stayed, but the room is large.  Keep in mind, we are paying alot more to stay here than the last place I stayed, Casa Del Mar.  So we are definitely paying for the location and the amenities, not the decor.  We head to the beach bar to watch the sunset and oh what a beautiful one it is.  My husband enjoys and very strong Clamato and I enjoy my first of many Margaritas.  It doesn't get much better than this.  No noise just the ocean sounds and that of the ice hitting the inside of my glass.  I have to go for now.  I'll try more later. :)

Trip Report Day 1 Cont.

I'm back.  Margs and the sunset.  We are taking it all in when we overhear the couple at the table next to us treating the "Camarero"(I'm practicing my Spanish) like he is a Simpleton.  Now there is only one thing that I dislike more than an Ugly American Tourist(and I will share that with you later), these people were embarrassing.  Most of the locals speak more English than I will ever speak Spanish, and they have never been to the US.  Me, I've been to Mexico 50 times.  It's just one of those things for me that gets me going.  I don't like ugly people.  Anyway, we head off to Manati for dinner.  It is at Ave. #10@ Calle #8.  Great recommendation. About 8 tables and a lovely hostess and waitress("Camarera")  Very quite and nice atmosphere.  I had the shrimp with cilantro and annato seed sauce.  It ws very good.  I still don't know what annato seed is though? Barry had the steak with 3 chile sauce that was wonderful.  Yes, of course I had some.  I love food and I always taste his dishes.  Not very good wine, but I think you can bring your own.  No mixed drinks.  After dinner we walked to Cafe Salsa jsut in time for the lesson.  We met Achu outside and then went in.  What a great lesson!  No we didn't take it but watched and learned quite a bit.  It was happy hour so we were content to take in the sites.  As it neared 11:00p.m. the place started to fill up. We were trying to get creative with our drinking and ordered a Mojito.  I am going on record here and saying that it was the absolute worst Mojito I have ever had.  No offense to Cafe Salsa, but I think the mint was some kind dryed grass from the garden or maybe parsley.  I went back to beer.  Ok the band is doing their sound check and there is a group of older patrons next to the stage that looks like they have ants in their pants, they want to dance so much.  We quickly decide on names for this group.  Now don't get me wrong this is all in fun and not to be insulting.  El Toro(the lone male) and his entourage(five females) begin to taketurns on the dance floor.  And while not dancing they are going through all the steps in their set on the bench on the wall.  Now this is a site.  Now these women look like they've been dancing all their lives.  Their bodies move better on the bench than mine would given shock treatment.  El Toro moves around the ring doing little more than short up and back motions while the women are salsaing all around him.  It was quite a spectical and very entertaining.  The owner/manager(I'm not sure which?) sat down and spoke with us.  He is from Marseille, France and was very cordial.  Well we decide to go to Joe's.  They have great music as well.  We have a Kahlua and cream(my favorite at the end of the night) before heading back to the hotel.  When we arrive there is one of those tricycle carts for room service near the elevator and since I've been watching this thing all day, I just have to give it a whirl.  I can't maneuver it at all.  Seems it has a safety mechanism designed for just such hotel guests as myself.  My husband says the drinks must have been stronger than I thought, because I was determined to make that thing move.  Oh well! ;)

Trip Report Day 2

Well, we sleep in. My husband says it's the first time in a year he hasn't had 2 Chihuahua's challenging him for sleeping space.  I try to tell him they only way 8 pounds, but they are quite dominate when it comes to siesta time.  We head to Papa Hogs to have some breakfast and watch the divers come in.  Several cruise ships are in and there seem to be alot of them using this dive shop.  Activity on the street is truly one of my facinations with Mexico in general.  I have learned about efficiency, friendliness and work ethic from watching the streets of Mexico.  I find it very interesting.  There was a man that had a portable car washing operation all on the back of his moped, he even did light car repair as well.  What do they say "with necessity brings enginuity."  I definitely agree.  Now, I've decide that to have one meal without "Totopos and Salsa a la Mexicana" would be unacceptable so we of course order that and Huevos a la Mexicana.  You might be getting the picture by now that I love to eat and onions, tomatos and peppers are all high on my list.  When you eat that kind of stuff, water is always essential.  So I have to tell you I drink water everywhere.  I know that maybe one day I may have a problem, but I rarely ask for bottled water and have yet to have trouble.  Maybe my high intake of tequila and peppers kill any chance bacteria may have.  Who knows, maybe I've built up an immunity.  We walk off our breakfast by heading toward Chedruai Market.  Oh my god!  I have never been here and it is awesome.  I swear my husband almost ate another meal when he saw the sandwiches.  And the refrigerated chocolate pastries, I had to pull him away.  I love this place.  You can buy liquor, pastries and cheap fun t-shirts.  After we but lots of things we will never consume, we head back for some snorkling.  Off to our secluded spot at the hotel we go and set up camp. I am in the water in no time and already enjoying the wonderful colors and fish.  I just love how everything is so brillant and yet so camouflaged.  I try to show my husband a spotted morey for what seems to be a few minutes before he finally sees it.  You know what I mean.  "If it had been a snake it would have bit him."  So I won't name all of them  but we saw alot and just as we are coming to the ladder we spot a barracuda.  Why is it they like to hang around ladders and safety stops?  I guess they really are curious about those swimming creatures with no tails.  While I am not too frighten of barracudas, they do have a menacing look about themselves.  So after some more sun, I head to the bar for some, say it with me now, "chips and salsa".  They are closing down this bar area, so I stay and watch the Kentucky Derby on the t.v.  How strange is that on a beach in Coz?  Well, it was a good race, but I'm much more interested in those Hats!  Well, we clean up and head in to town.  It's Panchos for us tonught as this is a special occasion.  Our Eleventh Anniversary!  Now I'm a bit more detail oriented than most and I certainly plan ahead.  So, it is no suprise that I have a card and gift for my husband.  What does he have?  Nada!  Now I'm not too materialistic, but would it have killed him to buy a card in the gas station like the guy does in the beer commercial.  He is feeling really guilty at this point and gives all kind of excuses for his procrastination.  He knows that I'm not buying any of it and decides to shut up.  Now my husband is a very caring person and I have no real complaints about that, I mean we are in Coz on our anniversary, but his next move is quite possibly the dumbest thing he has ever done.  Which he will be quite embarrassed about when he finds out I shared this info.  In the middle of enjoying our wonderful Margarita's he says he'll be right back.  Now you men know what he did and you women are saying nooo he didn't,  after almost 30 minutes he returns with a bag from Cinco Soles.  I didn't know whether to feel sorry for him or be mad.  I decided not to be either and accept the gift and move on.  They of course bring us chips and salsa and I'm in heaven again. See I'm really easy to please, he should know that by now.  He orders the steak with ancho chile sauce and I had grilled Mahi Mahi.  Both were excellent and mine was served on a neat habachi food warmer deal.  Very cool.  I really like this restaurant.  The service was very good as well.  The couple next to us was on their honeymoon and very friendly, as they left we said congratulations and the gentleman said, "Don't do anything we wouldn't do twice."  And I'm thinking given the card/gift situation earlier, "it ain't gonna happen."  We are pooped so we call it a night.  More later.

Trip Report Day 3

Started with pastries from Chedruai and coffee on the balcony.  It was an early morning since we are going fishing.  Except for the very obnoxious black bird that seemed to zero in on our room at 5a.m., it is so peaceful in the mornings in Coz.  There is no wave action and it is so still.  All you can hear are the boat engines at the dock.  We meet "Rita" at the Presidente dock and she tells us a bit about how she ended up in Coz.  We are taking Albatros Charters on this fishing trip and she and her husband "Brock" own the charter.  They are from Connecticut and have been coming to Coz for years.  At some point, I gather her husband felt they could make a go at it in Coz.  So they take turns six weeks Coz, six weeks CT.  They are trying to sell their home to move down full time but not quite there yet.  We talked for some time as the boat was late.  I've read some notes about lone Mantas adn Hammerheads, so I thought this might interest some.  She has actually seen a Hammerhead in Coz and a Whale Shark, but no Mantas.  Well we climb aboard a very nice boat with several outriggers.  It is very clean and has a head and a fighting chair.  We start trolling immediately and since I'm sitting in the chair, guess who catches the first fish of the day. Well, it is a very large very beautiful Dorado.  It weighs about 40 pounds and that is all muscle.  They are the most spectacular creatures.  They do aerials that are beautiful to watch.  Now, I'm a very big fisherperson.  I've been fishing all my life. This is my first Dorado, and they put up some kind of fight.  I caught a 100lb Sail that wasn't anything like this.  We caught many fish throughout the day including a 4ft. Barracuda that also jump about 3ft. in the air.  I've never seen that before.  He had nice 1/2 inch teeth hanging out of his mouth.  Vey menacing.  We luck out and see a wonderful sea turtle just cruising by.  They are the most relaxed looking things.  We head back, take our obligatory pictures and then they fillet a smaller fish for us to take for dinner.  The rest of course they will sell.  I have been very concern about conservation efforts in Mexico with regard to their fishing habits.  We did catch a few that if we hadn't said throw them back, I'm afraid they would have kept them.  But they assured me they abide by the laws.  They have so overfished the billfish population that they are now forced to catch and release most Sails because it has hurt their industry so much.  Ok, enough preaching.  We have lunch under another palapa.  I had a great Cuban sandwiche and Barry has a taco salad.  I would not recommend that at the hotel.  He said it wasn't that great.  Oh and of course chips and salsa.  He heads to the nearest lounge chair and I head off to snorkle.  I definitely doidn't follow the one hour rule.  Who made that up anyway?  Actually it feels good to work off my lunch.  I saw a very large Trunk Fish hanging around the shore. I think those are some of my favorite fish.  They have the oddest shape.  How do they get around.  Have you ever watched them?  They kind of wobble back and forth when they swim.  Headed to Ernestos for sunset.  I had not been to this ocation across the street on the beach it was nice.  We couldn't decide whether to have the fish prepared there or Guido's in town since Rita had recommended either.  So we opted to go to town.  Well this is where we start to have problem.  Guido's is closed.  Now what do we do.  Go Ernesto's.  We can't do that, they saw us with the fish before.  So the taxi driver says, "I'll take you to Prima's, they'll cook it for you."  Ok, I've heard of the place and it came highly recommended.  So we get out and the hostess with the earpiece, calls up and says sure we have a table and they will be happy to prepare your fish.  Great!  Now this is where it goes South.  The place is packed.  They must have great food.  It is full of Americans and they are having a great time.  A guy with a headphone meets us and rushes us to a very nice table.  And this is what transpires in the next minute.  While seperating the two tables, he says "we have this, this and this tonight."  My husband says "well we have some fish here."  Headphone man says "Have you made arrangements with the chef."  "No, but the young lady downstairs said you could prepare it."  He says, "Do you know how much Mahi Mahi I have coming in, 6,000 lbs this week.  We have all the fish we need.  He grabs the bag and says, "how do you want it?  We have blacken and baked, you have to get the sides of pasta red sauce or alfredo."  My husband answers and I kid you not, we haven't sat down yet.  Now I told you earlier there was one thing that I disliked more than an Ugly American Tourist--An Ugly American Living in Coz.  I'm sure this is going to bring on some grief, but this guy was and _ Hole.  We both sat down and just looked at each other.  We couldn't leave now because they had our fish.  But his greeting ruined the entire experience for us.  We order wine to try to relax after the whirlwind of activity upon arrival.  I think that Headphone Man may have realized he was out of line because he kept coming back to talk to us to explain his "Views."  Let see he tells us he started this place because, "Hell, I've been down here for 25 years and you can get any decent food anywhere.  That's why I started this so I would have a place to eat.  This isn't my real job.  I'm only here once a week."  I'm thinking, oh... how lucky were are that we came today, or we could have missed this."  He adds, "Can you believe they serve totillas everyday and don't make them fresh.  I had to import the flour in order to make my pasta fresh.  You won't find this anywhere else down here."  Now he is right, his pasta is very good.  But by now I have had enough of this guy.  They bring out some fried fish as an appetizer.  It was very good, in fact better than the blacken and baked fish we get later.  But this is where it reaches an all time low.  Here he comes again, Headphone Man.  He askes how the fish is, tells us how he gets it to be so light and then...he says, "That looks so good, I think I'll have some and reaches down and picks up some of the fish on our plate and eats it."  Now, I'm all for being friendly, but this guy was obnoxious.  I'm not believing this jerk just ate food off my plate.  I could not wait to leave this place.  It was the worst dining experience I have had anywhere.  He was rude , ugly and arrogant.  I will never go there again or recommend it to anyone.  We leave trying to remember we are relaxed and on vacation, but I keep seeing Headphone Man eating my food. :( We walk to La Parilla(restaurant) and have a nice quiet moment with a cocktail to calm our nerves.  I would come back there to try dinner.  It is a nice environment.  Day 4 later it is much better.

Trip Report Day 4. And you thought the others were long

Ok this is a real long one.  Sorry, it’s my way of reliving.  Called Smart Car @ 8:30 and they come to pick us up.  Now today is our official  “Splor’n Day” or for those who couldn’t possibly understand this “Exploring Day.”  We usually have one of these days on every trip. It gives us a chance to see things we’ve never seen before.  Well, after much negotiation and not very good at that, we end up with yet another HEAP of a topless VW.  The pickup guy made it look so easy, so I’m thinking she’s got to better than “Bessie”, the beast of a VW from my last trip.  But Noooooo!  She has a better paint job, RED!  Bessie was red but not from paint—RUST!  So we climb back into “Lucy”, red, Lucy get it. Ok, I start her up.  Great she starts! So, I look at the gearshift knob and think to myself, I’ll follow the diagram.  Well, I try and I try but the darn thing won’t go in reverse.  Now I’ve driven a stick shift all my life what is wrong here.   So I get out while of course all the moped people laugh their heads of at me and I go back to the desk.  The guy gets in the car and boom it’s in reverse.  My husband points to the knob, oh no that is not the real knob, do it like this.  Ok , what else is not real on the car?  So off  we go, my husband thinking we’ve made a very big mistake.  You see my husband is a bit more conservative than I am and pretty cautious.  Me, heck it’s only our lives.  Just joking.  So we go get gas and we are on our way.  She’s a bit jerky at first(could be the operator) but I start to smooth things out.  We decide to have breakfast at the place next to Dzul Ha.  I don’t know if it is associated with it, but we sit at a nice covered deck over the water.  We order breakfast burritos.  They are very large and very good filled with eggs and onions and peppers.  You know all that good stuff and topped with cheese.  We enjoy our breakfast as we watch the panicked snorklers every time something gets close to them.  It really is a nice place.  I’m not sure if it is too sanitary, but hey, I didn’t get sick.
     My husband is now the navigator with the Can-do Map and I’m the driver.  We decide that we are going to stop at every beach club to at least take a look.  First stop, Playa San Francisco.  This is a nice place but we stayed too long.  I also felt that he charged us too much since we ordered beers, but oh well.  I did walk down the beach past a beautiful new villa called “Dos something or other” it truly was nice with an infinity pool and lots of space.  The ladies staying there said it was $4,000 for the week but it had 3 kitchens and 7-8 bedrooms.  Very Nice!  Next stop. Mr. Sanchos.  Now one thing I like about this place is the palapas. The other playa has the vinyl umbrellas that get pretty hot.  I even remembered that from my last trip once I sat down.  What a nice place this is.  We ordered a bucket-o-beer and guacamole and what else, chips and salsa.  I think I could live off the stuff.  I’m sure by now you think I’m two tons of fun, but not really.  My husband says I have the fastest metabolism known to man.  They have very good Guac. here and we eat it all.  They have everything you can imagine here: bar, food, water trampoline, windsurfers, snorkel gear, dive shop, hot tub, changing rooms, at least a few shower heads to rinse off under, nice bathrooms and if I remember correctly, even a hyper baric chamber.  It’s a top-notch place.  After a nice swim we head to Nachi Cocom.  We are there late so they just let us look around.  Here is the rundown on the charges.  $30/person/day open bar and use of facilities, $12/person/couple of hours open bar and use of facilities,  $3/person use of facilities.  So if I came back early, you know what I’d be doing.  I can definitely drink $30 worth of alcohol in a day in Coz.  They have a nice pool and lots of shaded areas and palapas.  We might have to come back here.  Stopped next at Punta Francesca.  It was closed/shut down.  But the private home next to it is very pretty.  We went on to Playa Palancar.  This is not as nice of a place as the others appeared to be.  But the water and beach are nice.  Next stop El Mirador.  This rock bridge shaped peninsula is very pretty.  We went to the top and looked out over the ocean.  If you look between the crevices you can see the ocean going in underneath you.  It is very cool.  Passed Playa Bonita and thought we must stop next time and an relax on this beach.  Not much is there but it was very quite.  We then made our last stop on this side at Coconuts.  I just love this place.  The view is absolutely beautiful.  We go to a table near the edge of the cliff and just hang for a while.  We have a very good Margarita and very hot salsa.  As we are resting one of the resident dogs comes over and plops right down on my husband’s foot and went to sleep.  She didn’t beg or hang around for a while; she came directly to him as if she knew him.  Now we do have pets, but my husband isn’t exactly a pet lover.  We do have one dog that thinks he hung the moon and stars and adores him.  Now when we ask what the dog’s name is the waiter said. “Margarita”.  Too weird, our adoring Chihuahua’s name is,  “Margarita”  Coincidence, I think not.  At 6:30 we head across the island and I barely miss several reptiles on the road.  Iguana that is.  I want to take a look at the Coral Princess because I’ve heard much about it.  So we go in.  It is a very nice hotel.  There small beach seems adequate and the snorkeling looked great.  I don’t know about the current here though.  Everyone was moving out to the pool/bar area to watch the sunset, which was very beautiful that day.  I get them to show me a room and I was impressed.  It had nice balconies of the bedroom and living area.  IT had a full kitchen and a nice bath.  It was also very clean.  The rooms they showed me connected to other rooms, so you could have quite a large group if you wanted to.  I would definitely stay at this place.  They were very friendly.  Now the last thing we have to do before heading back to the hotel is to check out the golf course.  No, not minigolf.  I know, I know, you hate the golf course.  But my husband plays golf.  And if we could come back to Coz just one more time because he would have something to do, then it is worth it to me.  The course is very nice.  Looks pretty treacherous wind wise.  But definitely would be an attraction for my husband.  As we leave I almost hit one of those funny running lizards.  You know the ones that stick their heads up like they are running through the tape at the end of a race. What are those things called?  Since I don’t like to drive at night in Mexico, we take a cab back to town for dinner.  We go to La Choza.  Now take my advice, do not under any circumstances order the regular margarita.  It is the absolute, worst, rotgut, cleaning-fluid tasting drink, I’ve ever had.  Terrible!  But, my husband being the gentleman that he is, gives me his Orange flavored Margarita, which they recommended.  It was very good.  Word to the wise.  If they recommend it, get it.  I order Grilled chicken and my husband the fish fajitas.  Both were very good and came with a soup that was yummy.  The waiter was the cutest young man with a smile as big and beautiful as Texas.  I must have a thing for Latin men, because every time I go to Mexico, I see a young man that I think, Wow, one day you are going to knock them dead.  Anyway, we go to Viva Mexico for a farewell drink.  People watched there for a while and then headed to the hotel.  Sorry this is so long, but I only have one more day.  I’ll send it later.  Have a good weekend all!  :o)

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