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Cozumel Trip Report
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Posted by Pat on 01/09/03

Trip report - Part 1

I started reading this board about 7 months ago and found alot of useful information on it.  I especially liked reading the trip reports written by visitors to the land of Coz.  My wife and I are Canadian and avid divers. We look forward to going to Coz annually.  We recently returned from a trip over Christmas and had a great time!  
Here's a breakdown of our adventures.  I hope others enjoy this and it reminds them of their times in Cozumel.  
We were up at 5 and left Calgary airport at 9:00 a.m. on December 22 - balmy and -25 Celsius.
Got to Cancun around 3:00 p.m.  Were we in for a surprise! Apparently 4 other airliners had just landed as well.  With the construction at the airport, we were led around, in long lines, through, what seemed like the whole airport. 2  hours and 45 minutes later we were out in front of the terminal.  As per information I found on this board, I headed to the "right", down to the end of the terminal.  I saw the Riveria bus immediately and we started hauling our four bags of clothing, piniata supplies and dive gear towards it.  We got there and the driver was nowhere to be found.  A young guy came by to wash the bus windows and informed us that the driver was on his way.  When he arrived we bought tickets from him - 8.00 US each one way.  We could have bought roundtrip tickets but didn't.  (based on our return adventures it may have been wise..or not?).  We arrived at Bus station in Playa Del Carmen at about 6:45.  Got the bags and headed for the ferry. Walking the gammet of people wanting to sell us stuff was something I never miss.  We're hauling four big bags and they expect you to stop and go parasailing or snorkeling.  Oh well....our luck was with us and we bought tickets 8.00 US each and immediately went over to the ferry.  We were given claim checks for each piece of luggage and watched in amazement as our luggage (which seemed to weigh a ton by now) was launched across the bow of the boat in one blur.  
Got to Coz around 7:40 to a balmy 77 F.  When we left the ferry pier we noticed what seemed to be a party happening on the street.  People were lined up on both sides along the waterfront and no taxis to be seen.  Oh well, our only option would be to get across the street and through the square and maybe there would be a taxi on 5th Ave.  We actually had to go to 10 Ave before there was traffic allowed through.
We arrived at Alicias around 8:30 p.m.. Alicia, Tomas, Chuco and of course both Chavita and Benitita greeted us when we arrived.  They made us feel at home before we were even in the door.  We had a drink and Alicia showed us to our room.  We were very pleased with the room upstairs and decided to get ready and go out for supper.  
On our way to Alicias we noticed a place that we hadn't tried before so we jumped in a cab and got out at the main square/plaza. I don't remember the name but it is on the southeast corner - it has an upstairs balcony.  We had a very good meal there and enjoyed watching the action around us.  I believe the meal cost us around 170 pesos with drinks.  Off to bed....it's been a long day.

Dec 23 - What? we're not in the water yet?!

Got up around 8:00 and had said good morning to Chuco as he was hunched over the counter getting breakfast together. I read on Travelnotes about how good the breakfasts were and especially the fresh guacamole that Chuco made every morning. And believe me they were right.  
Diving.....whats taking so long - went to Dive Paradise across from La Brisas and arranged a dive for the afternoon the next day.  The fast boats in the morning were 63.00 USD and the same boats in the afternoon were 53.00.  We opted for the afternoon trip the next day.  We were impressed that they offered lockers to store the gear in and only required a 20.00 US deposit.  Facilities for rinsing gear and having an outdoor shower were available as well.  We proceeded to Chedrauis and loaded up with fruit juice and some steaks.
I really had a craving for cerveza, and before, while and after barbequing I had a few with Chuco and Tomas.  A few to many - I remembered why I don't like hangovers.

Dec 24th
Arrived at Dive Paradise at 12:30 and confirmed our trip.  Met two other ladies on the pier and found out they were coming with us.  One of the ladies was a Master diver and the other was newly certified (8 years earlier) - kind of a late first dive - good for her.  I then was relieved to realize these first dives should be on the easier side.
Dive 1 was to Tormentos.  It was a nice 38 minute dive at about 65 feet.  Saw some big coral heads and some huge Grey angels. Along with all the usual reef fish (I could spend pages descibing and naming each one) we saw a grouper that had to be 4 feet long.  Dive 2 was to Palancar gardens.  This is always a beautiful dive.  We did 50 minutes at 40 feet max.  As we were decending we had 2 large spotted eagle rays glide by.  They are truly the most graceful swimmers in the ocean. Came upon a Splendid Toad fish and at  least 3 spotted eels.  Good opening dives. On the way back to Alicias, Heather noticed her Suunto Spyder dive computer was fading fast.  By the time we arrived, it was dead.  Oh great - just serviced and now dead.  Oh well it wasn't the end of the world we could always rent one (10.00 US a day). The first minor setback of the holiday. We also learned that if you catch a taxi infront of a hotel/mall - it costs more.  If you can, walk inland (east) to the next ave or 2 off of the waterfront, the prices seem to be cheaper.  Oh ya - always ask how much before you get in the taxi otherwise you're paying whatever they ask.   We later met Pascual (Pascual's Dive Shop) at Alicias that night and decided to give him a try.  We arranged a Christmas Dive the next day.

Dec 25th Christmas and the Port is closed - no diving.
Great quesidillas in the morning with homemade guacamole.  Later that day we decided to try the seafood place down the street by San Franciscos. La Chonchita I think it's called.  Heather had the grilled grouper and I had a huge plate of cheviche.  Way more than I could eat for 90 pesos.  I took half home to have with the next barbeque.  We came back to Alicias to find the piniata had made it downstairs and it was time to fill it.  Once filled, Chuco climbed the avocado tree across the street and tied a rope about 10 feet up. I tied the other side across the street to the upper balcony.  Within minutes there were kids sitting on the curb.  One little guy showed up about 15 minutes later in his best clothes and hair nicely combed.  It was absolutley amazing how well behaved and polite these kids were. It was heartwarming seeing the smiles on the kids faces as the candy and toys spilled to the street.  
Later we walked down to the local sandwich place just a 1/4 past the half block by San Franciscos (Chucos directions).  It was actually about where he said on the west side.  We both had a "mixtas" sandwich (tortas I believe) and a drink.  I loved it, however my wife thought there were too many onions.  About 50 pesos for the 2 sandwiches and 2 cokes.
Had a relaxing evening getting to know Alicia and gang.  The hospitality is second to none!

--------[------

Part two to follow - "The Look for the Rings"

(if anyone is interested)

Pat

Trip Report - Part 2 "Look for the Rings"

Well thanks for the encouragement as far as writing my experiences.  A couple things I forgot to mention.  The cruise ships were everywhere.  We counted 11 one day and the sidewalks were packed.  We stuck our heads out onto the street for a fast look and back inland we went.  It must be strange to arrive in ports and the streets are always busy. - it's alittle different when there gone. But don't get me wrong I do understand the importance of them to Cozumel.
Ok enough of that.  We also had a bull living on the corner just down a bit.  Heather pointed it out as we walked by and said "hey look at that cow" I looked up and realized it was a Brahma bull with a full set of horns!  I quickly realized it was also tied up - whew.  Apparently the fellows bull got away from him a few days early and he had a hard time finding someone to help him coral it in.

Dec 26,  Partly cloudy, nice day
Breakfast of Herves Ranchero ala Chuco. Homemade salsa sauce and a fresh pot of coffee.  Looks like we'll be diving.
Our ride was supposed to arrive at 9:00 a.m. but arrived at 9:40 instead (only a Mexican 4 minutes last). Left from the Calletta Marina for Dives  3 and 4
French Palancar (Somepart of Palancat reef)
24 minutes 93 feet.  The current was the kind you put your arms out and fly around the pieces of reef coming by.  Wasn't that great but did see some beautiful coral and many lobster.  Heather didn't like it and used alot of air swimming - too be fair my air wasn't much better. to much current.
Yucab reef.
55 feet for 47 minutes . Much less current than last dive and much more enjoyable.  Our dive master caught a file fish for us and let us pet it. Also came upon a huge crab - the shell had to be 9 inches across (at least underwater it was), loads of grunts, goatfish, Queen angels and the omnipresent grey angels.
After the dive we headed back to Alicias.  Now this is important to potential moped riders. They give you helmets and let you get away with riding them intown without them but if you head south towards the beach clubs and marina.  They will pull you over just before the marina and ticket you for no helmet - not just you but the locals also.  This brings me to another discovery.  The local paper.  No censorship at all as far as car accidents.  What a way to get in the paper.  It seemed the worst the accident the more the pictures.  It's kinda gruesome but you know, if a few more people took the time to look they may not ride without helmets or drive drunk.  They do seem to be cracking down on it - so don't do it.  
Anyways, we got back to Alicias and met a very nice couple (Hal and Heather) from Virginia.  We  went out together to Guidos. They had gone the night before and loved it. I had the Seabass Carpaccio followed by lasagna.  Both were delicious. About 100 pesos for both along with the great garlic bread.  It's a full tortilla baked and smothered with garlic butter - to die for. Heather had the San Miguel pizza and couldn't finish it. Great company in a very good restaurant. I would recomment this one.  Swapped stories back at Alicias with another couple from Wisconsin (Tom and Nancy). Another great couple to round off the guests.  We had a few come and go from places like New York and Wisconsin.  The six of us were the long timers (2 weeks isn't really that long).  Tom had his camera out for the first time so we could look at some of the pictures.  He actually swam up to a barracuda and faced it head on from 3 feet to capture a great shot but man thats extreme photography to me. I bugged him about it off and on.  
Diving tomorrow so it was of to bed.

Dec 27th. Partly cloudy, nice day
Woke up around 8:00 and proceeded downstairs to the smell of fresh coffee. Omeletes were on the menu. Unbelievable!  Chuco makes a green salsa sauce for them that is delicious.
Off to the marina with Pascual around 9:30 and were in the boat by 10:00.  
Dive 5 Yucab Wall 100+ feet visability 35 min at 114 feet.  Great dive! A beautiful wall dive with a mild current. As we came over the wall a huge grouper was waiting for us. It went out towards the deep blue but stopped and followed us for most of the dive.  We saw a very large lobster about 4 feet long.  Again the reef fish were abundent and varied. Upon our ascent we were greeted by a large Spotted Eagle ray - it just fly off into the  fading distance.
Dive 6 Sunken Ship
Water temp 84 F Clear 100+ Vis
24 minutes 75 feet.
This was interesting to do especially if you've never gone inside.  We are both advanced divers and felt comfortable doing it - kinda - right Heather?  Actually it was funny, As we came up to the deck, after circling the ship at the bottom, I was the last one up with Pascual and Heather.  I come over the edge and Pascual was gone and Heather is looking into this hole on the deck shaking her head.  I indicated to her that everything would be fine and coaxed her in. Once inside we swan through one cabin after another and small schools of fish disappeared into holes in the floor or out the porthole.  
Silversides flahed throughout the ship and the bubbles on the ceiling looked like a mirror.  Small corals and the occasional urchin was seen.  We found the bathroom and played around as if to use them.  Ceramic tile is still in on the floor and toilets intact.  This dive was alot of fun.
After the dive we returned to Alicias to go throught the same old routine of rinsing all of our gear.  Oh and by the way Heather got a computer to use from Pascual the first dive - now she can log her own info.  After the chores and a shower we decided it was barbeque night at the casa.  Steak from Chedraui along with corn on the cob again.  It was great!  Of course if you go diving in the morning, by suppertime you're starved.  Getting to know the gang better.  Alicia has a young fellow who stays and keeps an eye on things.  Stayed up with him and helped him with his English homework.  We started to talk fishing and he asked if I wanted to go along.  We tentatively set a day and talked alittle more.  Now I know that as a scuba diver I shouldn't be partipating in fishing off of the reefs.  He said he was allowed and I just shrugged my shoulders and thought - well he does it all the time and as long as he eats the fish I'm ok with it.  Anyways thats a whole other story.

Dec 28th.  Cloudy, rain, windy
Not a great day but the port was open.  We're going diving.
Experienced Chucos French toast and the more I ate the more I realized how much I loved breakfast.  
Pascual had sent Pedro to pick us up and get us to the marina.  
Dive 7
Chakanaab Balones 75 feet 44 minutes.  Water was not as clear but still 75 feet, probably more.  Water temp about 82 f.
Beautiful spherical coral formations.  As we were decending, an Eagle ray swam past and disappeared like a ghost.  Saw a huge puffer fish - man it had to be 3 feet long.  I don't know the excact name. As I swam along I noticed a dive knife sheath and picked it up.  A couple of minutes later I found a plastic fork on the bottom (I thought plastic floated).  Just after I stuffed the fork in my BC I look up and there's a large school of yellow fin tuna.  Sounded like a sushi hint to me.
Dive 8 Paradise reef
Water temp 81 and Vis a little better. 50 minutes at 52 feet.  Replaced the mouthpiece on the boat and left the trimmed end on the top. After the dive my mouth was a little tender - changed that pretty fast.  The Splendid toadfish were around and even had one coaxed out of it's hole inder the coral.  Large spotted eel and as I said before reef fish to numerous to mention.  Watched a hermit crab drag a rather large Conche shell across some seagrass.  Nice Peacock flounder came out and led me to a large green cushion star (I think when they're green it's a juvenile).  Good dive.
We later went downtown and made some phone calls home.  99 cents/min US.  I think it's on tenth ave and south of the square. Where Staff divers is - if that helps.  Checked out the cruiseship people and headed for Cinco Sole.  It was very busy and Panchos backyard had a line up.  We opted to walk diagonally back towards 65th avenue until we came upon a corner ice cream store.  Got a couple of dishes of ice cream and walked back to Alicias - it was a long walk.
Usual visiting and dive story telling.  Hal and Heather are almost certified and Tom and Nancy are capturing great images underwater.
Early night after athe dives and the walking.

Dec 29th  Partly Cloudy, nice day.  Chucos omelete again upon request.
This day turned out to be the longest day of the trip.
Pedro picked us up at the B & B around 9:15.  We made it about 1/4 mile down 65th Ave and all of a sudden the right rear tire blows.  The only thing between me and that tire is a piece of plywood and a rusted out wheel well.  He pulled over once all the rubber was gone and we grabbed a seat on the curb while he ran back and found a jack.  It would have been ok if we didn't have all of our dive gear - then we could have browsed San Fran.  20 minutes later a young guy showed up carrying a jack that was bungeed to his handlebars.  The jack was to short to lift the VW van and the hunt was on for pieces of wood.  I didn't venture into the empty lots to far - I'm sure you could get lost in one.  Alas the tire is fixed and we're on our way.  We arrive at the marina to find out our captain didn't show up - I guess he forgot to tell Pascual that it was his day off.  Another captain was recruited and the dive was on. Time 11:00.  
Dive 9 Punta Tunich Wall Sunny and clear.  Water temp was 81 F . Vis was 100+. 75 foot dive 45 minutes.
It was a nice dive but nothing spectacular to talk about.  The usual reef stuff like small schools of grunt and the odd eel and a flurry of color from the other fish.  I've been using a color correction mask for this trip with the pink lenses.  What a difference!  Nice to see reds at 80 feet.
Dive 10 - Chakanaab shallows
Wasn't impressed with coming up with 1100 Psi in both our tanks as the majority of the last dive was above 50 feet. Asked the dive master if we could dive until 500. Actually I told him. Sometimes it's nice to have a non-timed dive, I trust my computer.  
53 minutes 50 feet.
Another interesting dive and up to par with the day so far.  towards the end of the dive I feel a frantic tap on my shoulder. I swing around and Heathers pounding on her octupus while it was free flowing.  As I reached for my octupus, hers stopped free flowing but she continued to "freak out" as she pulled my wetsuit towards her.  She led me to a couple of large octupus doing the nasty.  They were rapidly changing color as they floated over the coral.  I followed them for about 10 feet and touched them lightly.  As soon as I made contact - they changed the color of the sand and emitted a big burst of ink.  Ok i got the hint and left them to finish.  The story with the free flow was that it must have picked up a piece of sand just as Heather caught up to me and had nothing to do with her excitedness.  Cool dive - as in good. It was certainly shaping up to be a unusual day.  
Upon arriving at Alicias there was my young friend ready to go fishing.  I borrowed Alicias bike and headed off on a seven mile tour through the backroads of cozumel.  As we passed an open road chicken pen, the boys ahead of me swerved as a young turkey ran infront of them (they were doubling of course).  The turkey ran straight for me and decided that a front tire across then neck was in order.  Well to the sqwauk of the turkey and the laughter of all the aged chicken ranchers I rode off trying to stuff my heart back into my throat.  After stopping for some sodas and crackers at the local store, (it's amazing what they can buy with 20 pesos), we continued to the Playa Azul and parked our bikes beside a biulding - out of the way.  I retrieved my jacket which I had rolled up and stuffed into the front pouch on the bike.  I carried it around the corner, infront of the bar and past the rental sea-doos.  At that point I had unrolled my jacket and thrown it over my arm.  I noticed  that I had forgotten the passports were in the inside pocket.  When we put them in there we also threw in our wedding rings and acouple of other things.  I retrieved the passports and stuck them in my fanny pack, thinking that Heather must have taken out the other stuff.  Off to the pier I went.  We sat at the end of the pier at the next large hotel going north.  We fished and the boys caught some "eaters".  As night descended we were politely asked to leave to pier.  Off we went to the next one on the way back.  The next pier they hooked a large creature and it pulled them from the pier, along the beach and back, until it decided  under the pier was the best place to hide.  At this point I should explain that the fishing equipment was composed of a plastic reel of line similar to the spools line is sold on.  When they hooked this fish they had the procedure down pat. One would hold the reel at an angle that the line would come off with the right tension and the other one would pull on the nylon line. Ouch.  By the time they had finished htey had a nice couple of scars to show.  I had a nice one from voluteering to help.  It got away and it was time to leave.  The trip home was uneventful until we arrived.  Walked in the door and Heather was waiting.  I asked her or more correctly said "you took the jewelery out today right?".  Well after the near death experience I almost had when I realized I had lost them I tried to pacify Heather and without being asked - Alicia and Tomas had the flashlights out and the car running.  We looked until midnight and I actually found my Birthday Star Sapphire ring. Nice to find but man I wished it was Heathers wedding ring.  I arrived home to a much calmer Heather and promised I would be on the beach by 6:30 the next morning (on the bike).
Good night Irene.

Part Three to follow soon - gotta give my fingers a rest and besides the Oilers are playing tonight on the tube                    

Trip Report - Part 3  "Caca Pasa"

Dec 30th. Time 6:00 a.m. Weather is kinda dark. And my legs feel like I just rode 15 miles and crawled on the sand another 15.  I knew I had to get to the beach before people started staking their territory.  I thought that maybe the rest of the jewelery may be in the sand close to where I found my ring. It was kinda hard to tell in the darkness armed only with a flashlight, but maybe......  I came downstairs and Orlando was waiting for me.  It was almost like he felt it was his fault for taking me fishing (which of course it wasn't).  We both rode north into the Cozumel dawn.  We arrived at the place we left our bikes earlier and I anxiously went towards the beach where I found my ring the night before.  We searched the beach for another 2 1/2 hours - nothing.  We walked back around the corner past the beach bar and towards the bikes. Searched around the bikes and having given up - took a seat on the stone wall.  I noticed something sparkling in the light over by the tree - a penny, and Canadian.  Then a dime - and the search was on.  Another 1 hour and we left.  So far only the one ring.  
We arrived back at Alicias exhausted.  Alicia and Tomas had the metal detector out and Heather had found some batteries from our dive lights.  Alicia (and the gang) were ready to return fully armed.  I was ready to sleeeeeeep.  Tomas and Chuco, Olando, Heather and I found ourselves on the beach again.  Chuco went and got the ok from the local businesses regarding the metal detector.  Apparently they are illegal to use on the beach.  Searched the area until the metal detector crapped out.  We did find a handfull of can tabs though.  Stopped at the spot I found the Cdn currency.  We all donated our flesh to the sand flies for an hour until Heather yells "I found one" - it was an anniversary ring she wore under her wedding band. Searched for another 30 minutes and called the search off.  Official lost status: 1 mens diamond wedding ring, 1 womans diamond and sapphire engagement ring, 1 ladies diamond wedding ring, 1 silver necklace.  I can't thank everyone from Alicias enough for the help - we were touched.  I remember a saying that may help if you run into some bad luck "CACA PASA" - shit happens. Went home to bed at around 2:00 p.m.  resolving to wake up to a better holiday that evening.  
The last 16 hours was not enough to ruin our holiday and that evening we found ourselves at Manatis Restaurant.  Very nice place with private seating areas.  I think we caught them on a bad day and their menu was limited.  I had the spinach soup as did everyone else - we all liked it.  The chicken dish we ordered also had the spinach soup as a sauce. I can't remember much more, however we all enjoyed it and looked forward to trying the full menu.  
Back to bed.
December 31 - Beautiful day!
Had the famous guac and chips for breakfast and was off to the Marina.
Dive 11 Palancar Wall
Air temp 88 Water temp 82.
79 feet for 47 minutes
Visability was 100 feet +
Rough surface.
Great wall dive with beautiful coral and reef fish.  Spotted a large green moray and 2 spotted eels.  Also came across turtles three times. Lots of lobster again and a couple of crabs.  We were diving with a group from one of the cruise ships.  I'm a fairly new diver and don't normally say anything but this one fellow had all his stuff dragging across the coral and leaving devastation everywhere.  Bit my tongue and shouldn't have.  Oh well. What did make this dive fun was the numerous swim throughs that we did. It's alot of fun but please be careful going through - don't want to cause any damage.  
Floated on the water for our surface interval, which was the normal way to spend the hour between dives.
Dive 12 Cedral
Rough surface, air temp 88
Boat entry - rollback (this is the only way to go off the side of the fast boats)
59 minutes 61 feet
As soon as I hit the water I make a habit to look down below me.  This time it was worth it.  30 feet down were 2 gray rays about 3 feet across meandering by.  That was incentive to descend quickly.  Once down to 40 feet we decended slowly to a depth of 60 feet.  Saw a Drum Fish and waved Heather over to show her. Again did a number of swim throughs and had time to play with an arrow crab.  At the end of this dive an amazing thing happened.  A very large Spotted Eagle Ray came right past us carrying a large Conch shell in it's mouth - Cool!  The end of the dive came too soon as usual.
Went to Guidos with our new friends Hal and Heather.  Had the Lasagna which was excellent. Heather had a pizza that she only finished half of - it was very tasty.  This restaurant is a must do in my opinion.  The service was great. You'll only get one menu at each table but it's made of wood and stands about 3 1/2 feet high. The dessert menus are also wood but sit infront of you at the table.  Garlic bread to die for and "Carpaccio" - both beef and seabass - were excellent.  Reasonably priced for a nice night out.  Thanks H & H
Home alone and made it until 11:45 - Happy New Year!
I must tell you that the one thing struck me funny about the celebrations that are customary in the land of Coz.  One of which is, when they build a rag man life size and sit him a chair at the front of the house.  I didn't realize that the old rag guy was loaded with firecrackers (and or fireworks) and was to be blown up at midnight!  I guess The Old Man of the Year goes out with a bang.  Lots of fireworks erupting leading up until midnight.  Time seems to get ahead of itself with a little tequila flowing.

Jan 01, 2003 Another beautiful day!
What a great way to start the year. Chucos breakfast again with a guac chaser.
 
At marina by 9:00 a.m. and at the dive site by 9:30 - whew! quick morning...
Heather not feeling well
Dive 13 Santa Rosa Wall
Sunny and hot, Very warm current but fast. The water temp was an average of 86 F on my computer this dive.
27 minutes 102 ft
Hectic dive along a beautiful wall dropping off to 6000 ft.  Fast current kept us on our toes while trying to take in the walls of coral and sea creatures. Escaped the current by doing swim throughs.  After our first escape Heather indicated that she was tired.  We called the dive and took a nice long surface interval.

Dive 14 Punta Tunich
Air temp 90+ Great vis and current.  Water temp 86 F - I don't know what was happening with the warmer current?

This dive was much more relaxing and the ocean life was amazing.  Lots to see - Saw a couple of large Barracuda and a large grouper.  We also saw a pair of Pompano (or something like that) they were very large - people size -  and kinda have a gangster look to them.  Apparently they are very good eating and not seen very often.  A longer relaxing dive.  The fellow I was diving with was a vet (animal doc) and expressed an interest in doing a night dive.  We arranged to be at the pier by 6:00.  Heather had enough diving that day.
5:30 and the ride is here.  A DM that Pascual had hired, was raring to go.  A very hyper fellow and I think he may have graciously left a party to do this dive.  On the way he was yelling out the window at people he knew (I think).  Very helpful though - thought I might want to know where all the hookers hung out - took great pride in the fact he knew most of them.  Decided he wanted his tip in cervaza's - I obliged. Got to the marina and New Years was still going strong. Got in the boat as soon a Dennis (vet) arrived. The DM confirmed we had dove at night before, he replied "good then I can sleep".
Dive 15 Paradise Reef
On a boat with no running or inside lights.  Dark and almost eerie.  Lots of stars.
41 minutes  42 feet
Dive light "poofed" under water leaving me in absolute darkeness.  I could see my buddy but the DM was AWOL.  I had another light in my BC and proceeded on with the dive.  I think the DM was collecting the surf part of the Surf and Turf New Years spread.  I did see him try to warm one up in his BC.  The cool thing about turning off your light is that you can see pretty good.  The coolest part is when you wave your hands through the water causing a bioluminesence (at least that's how you say it) the plankton gives of light when it's waved through the water.
Dive is over - down a flashlite - seems minor at this point.  Dive Master was already dried and dressed when we hit the boat.
Happy to be back at Alicias.  Went out to supper asap - long day, not enough food.
Chose to go to La Mission.  I will tell you as a steak expert that the Filet Mignon that Heather and I had, were outstanding.   Our meal started with the usual chips and salsa. Then the basket of garlic bread pieces - excellent.  Next came some Sopa de Lima, which I love, it was as good as usual.  When the steak arrived, it was very large - 3" across and the depth of a strip of bacon, which also happened to be wrapped around.  We both looked at each other and declared "meat first" - veggies later.  Neither of us finished our steaks and I only briefly ventured towards the potatoe and sour cream.  170 pesos each - good deal for a nice night. Had a live Marachi band going throughout dinner.
Went back and talked diving for the rest of the night. Tom (Wis) had perfected the underwater photography in one week and was dazzeling us with pictures.  Hal and Heather almost certified (dive tomorrow?)

Jan 2 - Cloudy, Light showers,
Requested Chucos French Toast and took my time eating.  All six of us are going diving this morning together. Tom & Nancy, Hal and Heather, Me and my Heather.  Left Calletta Marina at 9:30 a.m.
Dive 16 Palancar Caves
Air temp 82 Water temp 82
101 feet 37 minutes
Vis was 100+ feet
This wasn't a fish ID dive.  Not many fish but the huge coral walls were magnificant! Huge pinnacles with natural swim throughs.  Very large barracuda and grouper.  Deep blackness behind you as you face the wall. Turning around from the wall leaves your mind confused, thinking it's in outer space - over a mile down to the bottom.  The large elephant ear coral and barrel sponges make it seem like you just walked in on a Flintstones set.  A recommended dive.
Dive 17 Palancar Horseshoe and Garden
Partly Cloudy Air temp 81 Water temp 82
76 feet  54 minutes
Another dive like the first.  Huge coral pinnacles rising like ski slopes towards the surface. Weaving swim throughs leading to discoveries of lobster, brown moray, schools of yellowfin tuna and very large Grey angels which are almost curious.  We started in the horshoes and ended coasting the Garden.  It was almost a perfect dive.  We all loved it.  Lots to talk about later.  By the way - There is a film place on 65th across from San Franciscos that had a 1 hour (mexican) i.e. 2 1/2 hour, film developing that was very reasonably priced.  Yellow Kodak sign on top of shop.

We were home early so the 2 Heathers and Hal and I decided to find the chicken place down 35th.  Don't know extactly where it is.  Chuco knows.  2 whole chicken taken off a spit in front of a wood burning oven. 3 bags of Spagetti, 2 bags of rice, 3 coleslaws, and some hot sauce. 60 pesos. A meal for 4 easily.
Relaxed that afternoon
Supper at Tex Mex on Calle 11 about 8:00 p.m. Everyone seems to know about it but never ate there.  We met Sandy (the owner) and found her very hospitable.  See introduced us to our waiter and went to get a fan.  She had only been open a week or so.  New staff and she just had the biggest group yet - 50 people.  They just left before we arrived.
We ordered 1 appetizer of quesidillas to split - got one each.  Sandy apologized and explained that her new waiter was in training. He was a very nice fellow and as Sandy said "hired for his integrity".
The other appetizer was put in a "to go" bag and put on the corner of the table. It was explained that we would need it later.
I ordered the aztec lasagna and couldn't believe the portion size.  This, just after having tortllia soup, was overwhelming.  We stumbled out with our rather larger doggie bag.  Our assessment was that the place was very comfortable and the food was good.  The price was around 200 pesos - not bad.  Huge portions - Texan Size I guess.
Slept good..........

January 3rd - Port Closed, No Diving
Very Windy and Raining.  El Norte is here. Still better than home.
Casual morning and ate light (no kidding)
Went to Chedrauis to get money from the atm to pay off our bills and take us home in 2 days.
Went Vanilla shopping for our parents. Couldn't get into Panchos Backyard because there was a line up.  Or should say we didn't wait.  Hung around Cinco Soles for awhile.
Didn't really have supper other than some things we found to nibble on from Chedrauis.

Jan 4th  - Our last day...Out with a bang!
Woke up to a windy, Partly cloudy, warm day.
The port was still closed.  We had one more dive paid for and had to do it today.  H & H and my Heather and I didn't wait around for Pascual to let us know what was happening.  We headed for the beach at Papa Hogs and told Pascual that we'd phone at 1:00 and if the port was still closed , we'd come and get our refund. He assured us the Port would open by 1:30.  Now comes a series of mistakes I won't make again.  It had been cloudy and cool and we all felt like "warming the bones".  It was still very breezy and the sun onyl felt hot at times.  Around 12:30 I decided that we probably wouldn't dive and I couldn't handle the thirst. - grabbed a cervaza. 1:00 phoned Pacual and were informed to be at the pier in 1/2 an hour.  We chugged our remaining drink and off we went.  Grabbed our gear from Alicias and were only a mexican minute late.

Dive 18 Yucab Wall - Can you say "Narced"
Sunny and hot. Air temp around 90.  Water temp 81. Great vis.
Learned a valuable lesson on this dive. DO NOT have a beer in the hot sun (or anywhere) just prior to doing a deep dive.  Knowing we were going home the next day - I should have been thinking!
114 ft   36 minutes
Descended along the wall enjoying a mild current and amazing sea life. Hal was right behind me as we glided past the wall slowly dropping.  At 114 feet I experienced such a feeling of euphoria that I wondered what I was doing.  My brain was saying "this is cool but you better go up a little".  Almost subconsciously I slowly ascended to 90 feet.  Feeling immediately revived I turned to see the newly certified Hal making a hasty ascent.  At about 85 feet he "became normal again" and leveled out.  I knew what had just happened and hoped Hal was ok. I waited for him and he indicated he was ok.
Aside from that, on the way back we happened to find another Splendid Toad fish along with a couple of eels.
Exciting surface interval with Hal and I (sheepishly) reliving our experience. He also got narced. I Felt ok but knew I had learned a lesson the hard way.  Thank God, no injuries.

Dive 19 - Yucab reef
90 F and sunny. Water a little rough.
Vis at over 100 feet
This reef was probably one of the most interesting and varied dives I did in Cozumel.  That might explain why I made another error along with inexperience.  The dive was the most rewarding with lots to see.  Pascual coaxed a very large turtle out from a semi circle coral formation at about 65 feet.  It was the largest one I've ever seen.  It came at me slowly and I figured I'd get ready to pet him as he came by.  By coincidence or as a warning the turtle saw me lift my hand and decided to show me how big his mouth was from 2 feet away.  I'm sure that he could have bit my hand off easily. I retracted, and settled for just a lean on his shell as he cooly swam past.  Well here we are, 40 minutes into the dive and having a wonderful time - last one of the trip.  Heather indicates that it's time to go up.  I look at my computer to see that I had a deco time.  My air was down, my wife was having a hard time stopping consistently at 15 feet and I was helping her.  Finally I gave up and surfaced with her.  I knew I had to stay down longer but didn't have the air to safely go down to do my needed Deco stop.  I indicated to Pascual I needed to go back down and showed him my computer.  Threw my stuff on board, got a new tank and reattached my weight belt. Went back down for 20 minutes at about 20 to 15 feet.  Swimming lots to expel what I could.  The whole time thinking man I sure F***ed up today.  Here I am deco'd and needing to fly tomorrow afternoon.  I was ok after doing my second (third) dive.

Went out for supper for the last time.  Again we ate at Guidos. Good as ever.  Highly recommend the cannelloni with mushrooms and white sauce. Delicious!.
Said good-byes to everyone as it was unlikely anyone would be seeing us out at 8:15.
We of course were to be up at 5:30 to pack.

Jan 5th, 2003  I don't want to go home.
Finished packing by 6:00 and had coffee finished before Chuco arrived.  Chuco made me eat an omelete and I'm glad he did.  It was going to be a long day.
Quiet day around the table. Alicia came out with a coffee.  I knew this was special when she had coffee instead of the usual Coke light.  We said our good-bye and bartered with my last taxi driver.  Got 2 tickets to Playa Del Carmen and jumped on the 9:00 a.m. ferry.  Here's a valuable tip when buying tickets for the Riveria bus to Cancun airport.  If you by them for 65 pesos off someone on the ferry, that will entitle you to a stand-by ticket on the bus.  I was informed of this after I diligently was the first to get my luggage on the bus.  I made it very clear I was going to empty the luggage compartment of the bus first before he left without me.  There were 2 seats left after what seemed like hundreds had gotten on.  We were on the bus.
Got to Cancun in lots of time for our flight.
Landed in Calgary at 9:20 p.m. Sunday night.

Not quite home, but close - Edmonton the next day

In closing I would again like to sincerely thank the gang at Alicias.

Lets see:  1 Dive Computer $500 US
          1 Set of jewelry $5000 US
          1 Dive light $50 US
1 Trip to Cozumel to meet new friends and have some interesting experiences - PRICELESS

The fishing, running over turkeys, finding out where the hookers hang, and countless hours wishing I knew Spanish all cumulated into the best and most memorable holiday we've ever had.

Pat and Heather

I hope the story interested everyone who took the time to read all three parts.  As I said to
Alicia - "this was a trip I had to get on paper"

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