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Cozumel Trip Report
Posted by Bob P on 07/17/01

El Presidente Inter-Continental Cozumel

There seemed to be hundreds of things trying to keep this trip report from happening, and I would like it to be as perfect as the trip was, but frankly, don't have the time.  So here we go....

THE THREE AMIGOS TOUR
2001



Senior Amigo: Dad/Bob
Middle Amigo: Tim, 18
Little Amigo:  Scott, 13

A Little Background:  
 Bob (hereafter to be called I) had 5 previous Coz trips, the boyz had been two previous
times.  All previous trips we were accompanied by Mom/Gale.
Mom had booked a whirlwind trip to Europe with friends and the boyz and I decided to
take a trip of our own.  Cozumel was picked by a 3 to 1 vote (Mom didn’t want us to go
without her).  

Benefits included:   The house would stay clean.
                We would probably have eaten out every meal anyway.
                 The boyz could keep a close eye on Dad. (I think they had orders from  
                             Mom).
                Our pool is too shallow.

Pre-trip chaos: Mom left on Wednesday, we didn’t fly out ‘till Saturday.  That meant she was not around to pack our clothes, arrange the paperwork, etc.  She did have medicines packed, and a checklist prepared.  The boyz and I managed to fill our suitcases Friday
night and were basically prepared to load the car as scheduled at 5:15 AM.  Note: Packing
is easier if you don’t have to worry if your clothes match.  The alarm went off at 4:30 and
I was up like a bullet, woke Tim, and woke Scott.  Showered, made coffee, got dressed
and found Scott was still in bed asleep.  AAhhhhh!  I had coffee for breakfast, the boyz
had........nothing.  “Don’t worry, there will be something on the plane,” I said.  


    Made the airport an hour+ before take-off, skycap dragged our luggage into the
terminal and put us in line.  I was stunned to find 60+ people in line and bodies of
deshelved teens collapsed on the floor everywhere.  Stress level shot up.  On closer
examination, the skycap had put us in the wrong line.  International line...no waiting.
Stress level seeps down.  Checked in all the way through Houston to Coz.  And 45
minutes to kill.  
    Flight leaves on-time.  Breakfast is served...heh-heh.  They served these little
donuts that had a glaze on it that 3M should look into for it’s adhesive qualities.  The
napkins would adhere to your fingers rather take off the stickiness.  Ah, who cares we’re
on vacation!
    For the first time ever we don’t have to change terminals in Houston and we are in
the air for Coz in no time.  We land at 11:50 AM.  Seats up front insure a quick exit off
the plane.          Our first bag was on the first luggage cart....the rest were on the last cart
twenty minutes later.  Oh well, we’re on vacation!  Green light through customs and in no
time we are in the Suburban headed toward the Presidente Hotel.
    We had joined the Six Continents Club ($100 - free room upgrade and one free
night) and as soon as they saw my name there was a flurry of action.  We were ask to
follow the desk clerk.  She took us over to some nice comfortable chairs and we were
served our first Maggies and Coladas of the trip (and the last one for the boyz) as we
checked in.  Room was ready and we were settling in before 1PM.

Stress level was at
zero.  
    Our “Reef Room” was spacious with two double beds and the roll-around for Tim.
Table, chairs, T.V., shower/bath, and a nice semi-private patio that dumped right on to the
beach.  And the A/C was cold and silent!  Yes the beds were Cozumel hard. (Even the
roll-around.)

    We decided to go get the car first then eat. (We did have a “sandwich” on the
flight from Houston, but we hungry now.)  The car was a VW Bug, standard trans,
excellent condition, for $128 for the week.  The boyz want to upgrade to a Tracker
($358), we kept the VW.  
    We parked and walked to La Mission (south of the square).

The food was great (of course we were starving) The boys had Fajitas and I had shrimp and avocada (fresh) w/ a dressing that was very much like French Salad dressing.  I've been known to spend two dollars for a ripe avocado in Memphis, so this was great!

A little background: I (Bob/Dad) was attached to a division in the US Navy that included divers.  Though not certified at the time I had something like 30 dives throughout Asia in the 70"s...yes, I'm THAT old.  I am not currently certified but will be.  However I felt it a Father's obligation to show his sons Nirvana. Therefore on Monday we took our Resort Course with Scuba Du (Presidente Resident Dive Shop).

We were scheduled for our class and first shore dive at 10AM.  So we awoke at our leisure and had a GREAT breakfast at El Caribeno'.  

We checked in on time and met Ricardo, our DM.  He was a little shy at first, but I found out why later.  He did a great job as we sat in the shade on the beach going over theory.  The boyz paid close attention.  We were then fitted for our stuff and walked easily into the water off the beach for check out.



 The boyz had been practicing at home clearing masks and such, and they were agressively confident as we went through the drills.  Then we simply swam out to sea.



I had forgotten how easy diving was.  It had been 25 years and though I have done a lot of free diving since then, this brought back the euphoria of the silence coupled with the weightlessness combined with the beauty!



Though we had snorkeled and free dove every inch of the Presidente area over the years, I found myself turned around and seeing it all in a new perspective.  The sunken barge was not he same barge, it seemed.  

The boyz took it all in stride.



Our dive ended as we calmly swam into a gigantic school of fish that parted and then rejoined to completely encircle us.  It was surreal, you had to be there!



I took a few pictures and our thirty minutes was over.





We spent the rest of the day eating, shopping some, and marveling at our deeds.  Ricardo (DM) was very pleased with our efforts and confessed later to me over a cold one (he had lemonade) that his last few students struggled so miserably that he was doubting his ability to teach.  He was a real asset to our vacation and we scheduled a two tank dive on Columbia and San Fransico for Tuesday-8AM.

Oh, I might as well spill the beans as I'm sure Diane will eventually.  There is a turtle nest on the beach at The Presidente.  It is enclosed and protected and is the first (known) nest on the west side.  Here's a pic.  Board regulars Bill and Janean are in the background.



It was a great day and there's so much more to do!

THE THREE AMIGOS TOUR (continued)

 After our resort course shore dive off the hotel we drove into town, dropped off film,
checked email from Mom (she is still zooming around Europe), and stopped by the market
(Chedrui) sp.} and bought yogurt, great rolls, and liquids. We laid around the hotel in the
Cold A/C and watched a movie.  We showered (yes Mom we took showers while we were
gone) and decided to eat at Aquario’s.  Gale and I had eaten there previously and enjoyed
the food and the atmosphere.  There are saltwater aquariums throughout the restaurant
and there use to be two large tanks on the patio overlooking the ocean that had large
nurse sharks.  The boyz were disappointed to find that the tanks were gone (as were the
sharks) and I was disappointed that the food, service, and presentation had gone down
while the prices had not.  Unless money is no object, I’m afraid I would scratch Aquario’s
off my list when there are so many great alternatives.
   
Tuesday Morning:  
    We had ordered breakfast at the room as we were scheduled for our two tank dives on
Columbia and San Francisco Reefs.  Scott was not too well and managed a little toast.


I wasn’t sure whether it was nerves or the real thing and he was toughing it out as we
walked down to the Scuba Du pier to board for our trip out.  I spoke with Ricardo and he
thought it best if he didn’t go and Scott looked VERY relieved when I told him he didn’t
have to go.  I hated that he missed out because Tim and I had a GREAT time.
 One of the good things about Scuba Du is large very clean and well maintained boats.
That coupled with the fact that we are already South of town makes for a fairly short trip.
There were five other divers that were diving with Beto (DM) and we were to stay with
Ricardo.  
  The current was perceptible but not anything like I had found when free diving
Columbia.  35 minutes of heaven at about 45’.


 Right after we descended we came on upon the largest Barracuda I’d ever seen.  Ricardo
said it was the largest he’d ever seen on those reefs.  My pictures don’t do his size any
justice, but he was easily seven inches in diameter and six to seven feet long with
impressive battle scars.  We followed Ricardo through some great swim -throughs and
over what most of you have seen before.  Tim was impressive and seemed to master
buoyancy quickly.  



After a short trip to San Francisco we enjoyed another great dive. Beto found a seahorse
as soon as we hit bottom and it got better from there.  The turtles were small but majestic
and the eels seemed brave.



It was a great time and I tipped Ricardo well for being part of a memory Tim and I will
always treasure.



 We got back to the hotel to find Scott in bed watching TV but feeling better.  He did not
have an appetite for another 24 hours however.  Tim and I went to town for fajitas at
Ernesto’s and pickup our photos.  We sat at Viva Mexico drinking cold liquids and
watching the cruise people walk (or stagger) by.

Tomorrow (Wednesday) we have scheduled a Jungle Jeep tour!

 

THE THREE AMIGOS TOUR (continued)

 On Wednesday morning we have scheduled a Jungle Jeep Tour.  (We had made
reservations using the link on the Board ad banner).  By this point in the trip the boyz
were having a little trouble keeping up with the “old man” and wanted to sleep in “at least
one day when” we don’t have something planned, so it was a good thing that the tour
didn’t start ‘till 10AM.
 On a side note:  The island though small by comparison is still in the neighborhood of
250 sq. miles and the city, hotels, and the east side beaches make up very little of this.  I
have wanted to learn more about the island ecologically and historically.  Gale and I had
taken the tour of the Punta Sur lighthouse last year and it was worth both the time and
small charge, but I was curious about the North end of the island and particularly the
North lighthouse.  (I think partly because the brochures all warn about trying to get there
and the fact the military has an encampment there).  

The Tour:  We were picked up at our hotel lobby (Presidente) at 10 sharp in a four-wheel
drive rental Jeep, our guide introduced herself, we loaded our snorkeling gear, and we
were off.  Our guide (and almost assuredly yours should you take the trip) was Heather.
A very energetic (and talkative) twenty-something young lady that the boys took an
immediate liking to.  Tim rode shot gun as we made a quick stop in town to pick-up our
prepackaged lunch and we shot across to the East side.  Heather pointed out things
throughout town and on the highway and answered all our questions.  
We turned North on the dirt road next to Mezcalitos and were instantly in dense
vegetation.  The road was barely wide enough for the Jeep and required that you lean
toward the center a bit as the overhanging trees and shrubs slapped the passing Jeep.
Heather ask us how fast we wanted to go (the road was rocky, bumpy, sandy and dusty)
and of course the boyz wanted to fly and Heather can drive that Jeep!

We stopped several
times to see points of interest.  We followed Heather into the jungle (not jungle like
rainforest or Tarzan, but extremely dense shrubs, palms and vines) and found a fresh water
Aquaduct that was man-made hundreds of years ago.




 The winding road  did not allow visibility around the next turn but Heather seem to
anticipate the turns and we made good time between stops.  We came upon a large
caravan of Cruise ship tourist riding on four-wheelers.  They looked hot and Very
dusty....I’ll take the Jeep thank you very much.



We stopped and a couple of ruins that were fascinating and the fact that we were alone
there gave them an eerie atmosphere when you tried to imagine the time and conditions
when they were built.  Just the effort needed to get to the East side of the island on foot a
thousand years ago must have been monumental.








After our stop at the largest of the ruins I ask Heather about the North lighthouse (not
listed as stop on the tour) and she quickly said, “sure let’s go”!  We continued North past
a large coconut grove and then the jungle opened up there was the lighthouse.  Old,
sun-washed with a red top.  It was deserted.  The military had a camp there but it too was
deserted.  The hand made huts that the soldiers had built were their sole protection from
the elements.  We got great video of the area but Heather was rushing up the lighthouse
and I missed taking stills of the camp.
   The view from the top was breathtaking.  (Plus the horseflies don’t fly that high, oh I
didn’t mention the horseflies).





The Army had scratched out a soccer field into the rock and sand.  If you love Cozumel,
you must find a way to stand on the spot where we stood at the top of the lighthouse and
look 360 degrees into the gulf, jungle, and beaches.



After our stop there we headed back South for about 15 minutes and stopped at a desolate
beach for lunch and snorkeling.



The reefs reached the surface about 100 meters off shore,
so there was a bit of swim to get there but well worth it.  The reef blocked the incoming
waves and currents and made for some of the best snorkeling on the East side I’ve seen.
The animals (and fish) seemed shy (I’m told because of the local spear fisherman) but the
swim throughs and twists and turns of the reef were a lot of fun.











Lunch was an incredible Bar-b-Qued chicken with fresh tortillas and salsa and boy it tasted
great there on the beach.  Heather had brought all the sodas, beer and food.  We lounged
for a short while and then headed back  I moved to the front seat thinking it would be
easier to hold on...it wasn’t.  

It was a great time and a totally different Coz experience that I will do again.

I kept thinking that the lighthouse looked familiar and it wasn’t until we returned home
that I realized a feather painting hanging in our living room that Gale and I had bought
two years before was of the North lighthouse.  It was a Twilight Zone experience.

THE THREE AMIGOS TOUR  (part six)  the final chapter......


(unless we decide to do one of those prequel things and start posting reports of trips from
the past)!

For those of you who have followed all the reports you have undoubtedly noticed that I
have lots of photos of The Boyz and I make no apologizes for this, as this trip was about
them, for them, and will always be remembered by them.  You might also notice that there
were lots of photos (first rule of good photography: TAKE LOTS OF PICTURES)!


They did manage to have fun without me.  They spent more time at the pool, weight
room, and ping pong tables than I did.  One of the GREAT things about Coz is that you
don’t worry about your kids. The boys did have there own cameras (disposable) and some
of the shots were theirs.  Here is an example of one roll of film after they had met a certain
young blonde thing that happened to appear in the background of almost every shot.


On Wednesday night after the Jungle Tour (see Trip Report below) We went for a night
snorkel off the Presidente beach.  The Presidente North beach is about 200 meters from
Paradise Shallows (a favorite night dive because of the short boat ride) and the
atmosphere at night is the BEST.



Lots of animals....





And afterwards a few races on the beach and a dip in the pool.



Thursday .......The East side!   Of course we stopped at Marley’s (we went South first). A
little Reggae music, something cold to drink and a visit to the “Blow-Holes”!


And then played at El Mirador.  For the folks that haven’t been, it is a large limestone
outcropping that the waves have carved into a natural bridge that allows you to walk
(carefully, because the rocks are sharp) out into the pounding waves.




We were on our last day and I’m afraid we took few pictures.  We just enjoyed our
freedom and good fortune that we were who we were, where we were, when we were!
Then we stopped at Mezcalitos!  The breeze was the best on the island.....The boyz had
Cheeseburgers and I had more limes...with something to wash them down.  Scott (13)
kept a close eye on the NUDE BEACH sign without reward.  I can’t wait to bring Gale
back here....and with any luck the breeze will be the same.  




We drove back to the hotel...swam some, then went into town for a final farewell and
minor shopping.  We ended up having dinner and watching the tourist from Viva Mexico.
That was a lot of fun for the boys.




We watched our last sunset at the hotel and slept like babies!  


This was my first trip to Cozumel that I wasn’t trying to work out an extra day or two.  I
missed my Cozumel honey!  Of course about that time she was standing in the Alps
somewhere!


This trip was fun!  The anticipation of the trip was VERY magnified by visits to this
board, and the effort put into the Trip Reports was therapeutic to ease the withdrawals!
I haven’t booked yet, but late September is my target!

PS Thank you Dermadiver (for your help with image links) and thanks to R&R for your
encouragement (I really regret missing you).  The rest of you...thanks for all the constant
entertainment.....There isn’t a one of you that I wouldn’t call “Friend” (though Ron Lee
might have to provide references)!

PSS.  Here is the picture of the 6 ft+ Cuda that I said didn't do it justice but I had many request for.


THE END!      

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