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Cozumel Trip Report
Posted by twelvevoltman on 05/01/01

Trip Report part 1 - Arrival and the National Car Disaster

Left DFW on Friday 4/20 at around 9:15 on Champion Air for one Glorious but all too short week in Coz. OK flight, tho’ of all the charters I’ve flown, I swear their seats are closer than any others. I have short legs, and I was about to develop major cramps by the time we landed. Arrived in Coz around 11:30, tho’ it was 10:30 there. Coz does not participate in that stupid concept known as DST. Got to the Playa Azul around 11:00. Room not ready, so we changed and hit the beach. Wow, what a view. Not even noon, and I am on the beach, cold one in hand, listening to the waves…….ahhhhhhhh. Had lunch at the Playa Azul Beach club next door. Good food, a little pricey…nachos, guac, couple of cokes for around $12. Room was ready around 3. Wow. Ground floor room, could step from our patio to the pool deck, and what a view. Later I discovered the view from the upper floors (3 and 4) was even MORE awesome. I know several of you out there were interested in pics of the Playa Azul. Email me……I took tons………I cannot say enough about this hotel. Mrs. twelvevolt and I will stay NO WHERE else now. More about hotel in later installments…….. Got cleaned up and took cab to town to get our car from National “Screw-You-Around” Rental Car. OK, it you wish to skip the part where I flame the hell out of National Car Rental, please skip the rest of this first installment. This is the only negative thing that happened to us all week. So, now that you have been forewarned, here goes……….

Made on-line reservations with National about 2 months before our trip. Got a compact car with a/c, insurance and all, for $221.00 for the whole week. Beat the hell out of anyone else’s price. I printed out the confirmation page from their website, and I got an email from them the next day confirming my reservation and the rate. Printed it out also. Two weeks before we leave, I called National to double check. Everything was in order. Soooooooooooo  we take a cab to town, find the National Office right off the plaza, show them my printouts of the confirmation page AND my email from National. Well, they punch in my conf. #, and GUESS WHAT?!?!?!? Next to my name is the word “cancalada”!!!!!! My reservation had been CANCELLED, and not by ME!!!!! Well, I tell the guy that I did not CARE what the computer said, I had TWO forms of confirmation in hand, and that I wanted my car. He then tells me that they do not even HAVE a compact car with a/c, one of many bad lies I would be hearing that evening……He THEN proceeds to tell me that he would be happy to rent me a JEEP for $497 for the week……….Well, I am beginning to get just a little ticked and so I ask for the manager. He goes and gets some other guy, I repeat my WHOLE story, and he tells me that the computer says my reservation is cancelled, and besides, he could not rent me a car for the rate quoted anyway. “Is much too low rate” he says. Besides, he says, I could have just “made up” those printouts I am showing him. Yeah, right. I am really steamed by now. He tells me he would be glad to call the “main office” the next day, and in the mean time he would be “happy” to put me in that jeep. Well, that just does it. By now, Mrs. twelvevolt has me by the arm, dragging me out the door. “C’mon honey, we will go somewhere else…..Just calm down……..etc. etc. etc.

Well, to make a long story short, we went around the corner to Budget, whom we dealt with last year, got a nearly new Nissan with cloth seats and A/C for $317 for the week, all insurance, taxes, etc. I will be dealing with Budget from now on. Very nice, courteous, good service, clean car, etc. My advice would be to NEVER EVER deal with National. Now I know some of you have had OK experiences with them. I am just warning anyone who might me making on-line reservations with them.

Anyway, got the car, drove to Chedraui to stock up, went back to hotel, cleaned up and headed out for El Moro for dinner. I had the shrimp on a wire, mrs twelvevolt had the breaded shrimp, and we shared a bowl of “sopa de lima”. We had lime soup all over the island this time, and nowhere, but NOWHERE does it compare to that served at El Moro. Way yummy. Tummies too full, we drove over to the east side and gazed at the incredible stars for awhile, then back to the hotel for a late night beach stroll and then on to bed. Note: We had a king-sized bed at Playa Azul, and though while still hard (as all beds in Mexico seem to be) this was about the most comfortable we have come across in my 7 years of traveling there. But SHHHHHHHHH!!!!!! Let's just keep the Playa Azul our little secret, OK?!?!?    grin

Trip Report Part II - Dzul Ha and the Wild, Wild ride...........

Saturday: Up around 8 am, having breakfast on our patio……juice and pastries from Chedruai….trying to decide which is the most brilliant blue I have ever seen…..the sky or the ocean…….I was totally thrilled by the view from our patio…till I went up to the third and fourth floors….WOW!!!!!! My one piece of advice about the Playa Azul is to get a room on one of the upper floors, that is if you are really into the view thing. After eating, we grabbed all our snorkle stuff, and headed out for Dzul Ha. Wore our dive skins that morning….mostly because of all the reports of the thimble jellies we had read about. Mrs. twelvevolt liked the skin because it kept her warm…..I just got hot in the thing. Anyway, saw no jellies, but TONS of fish. There was one big, coral covered rock formation that I started counting different types of fish that I say, and I lost count after I got to twenty…….really a great snorkle experience. The current was fairly stiff, north to south. Speaking of currents……can anyone tell me how the current can be north to south there at Dzul Ha, and south to north at our hotel??? Mystery to me…..anyway, we spent a couple of hours there, snorkeled twice, and got in the car to drive over to the east side. Stopped and checked out the new beach club, Mr. Sanchos. It was ok, but was too "noisy" for us. Looked like a beach club for cruisers for sure. But then, I guess we are getting kind of "old and crotchity".......grin. We still like the Nachi Cocom better. Started to stop at Bob’s Marley bar for a margarita, but was too crowded. Drove on to Mezcalitos. Stopped for lunch. We split a cheeseburger and some guac. Both were awesome. So, of course, were the margaritas. They are some of the best, if not THE best on the Island. And they definitely get my vote for the strongest!!! So, we just vegged out for awhile, then back to hotel and camped out on the beach for awhile. Went to town for the evening, lots of activity on the plaza on Saturday night too. Nothing to compare to what we saw Sunday, but still lots of locals. Love to watch those guys spray paint those pictures. Really cool to watch. Had dinner at Casa Denis. Always good. Mrs. 12Volt had the lime soup, pretty good but once again pales in comparison to that served at El Moro. I had some kind of pork Yucatan style, was very tender and great. Couple of cokes, got out for about $11. Walked around the plaza, I had to have my “churros fix”, then back to hotel and zonked.

Sunday: We had met the couple staying in the room next to ours on Saturday. Dana and Cheryl. Very nice people, even if they were from the great white north. (minn/st. paul minn.) We all decided to go snorkeling in front of the hotel(s) there. We went down to the property just south of the playa azul, and got into the water. The waves were coming in pretty good that morning. We thought we would swim south, and then drift back north. First thing we saw was a LOT of the thimble jellies to the south. So, we headed north. By the time we got back in front of the Playa Azul, the women had had enough. So Dana and I decided to go on, at least till we got to the El Coz. Saw lots of fish in front of the Sol Cabanas, around the restaurant. Saw more of the jellies too. Got into some of them, but then swam out of them unscathed. The current going north was there, but not unmanageable. THEN, we got around the point where the restaurant sits, and headed for the El Coz, and WHAM! It was like we had swam into the jet stream!!!! We were whizzing along really fast. I decided to turn around and see if I could swim into the current. Now, I had on fins, and I am a REALLY strong swimmer. I swam as hard as I could into the current, and got NOWHERE. I mean, I was literally swimming in place! Whew! Turned around and let the current push me along some more. Got up near the El Coz, and saw TONS of the jellies. We decided we could not get through or around them, so we decided to get out at the beach at El Coz. I made the mistake of turning and going through/over the sandbags they have out. Like I said, the waves were really strong that morning. They were pushing me in, pulling me back. I saw the bottom coming up pretty fast, and it was solid, rough looking rock. I kept looking for the sand, and the rock bottom kept getting closer. I could just see myself getting out of the water all scraped up and bloody. Finally, I got into some sand and just let the waves wash me up on the beach. Must have been a pretty funny sight from shore. Finally got my fins off and stood up. Must have had about 10 pounds of sand in each pocket!!! I had sand all over me and in………weelllllllll, you get the picture. But what a wild ride that was. Very thrilling. Would not recommend it to anyone who is not a very strong swimmer though.

Walked back to the Playa Azul, and told the wives all about our manly adventure. We decided to celebrate by all of us going over to Mezcalitos for lunch. Had the seafood platter – super shrimp, fish, and conch. The shrimp and conch were great, fish was over cooked. Couple more margaritas, then we drove them around the island. We all went into town that night, and I do believe every single person on Coz was there. Wow, was it crowded. Dana and Cheryl wanted to go to La Choza for dinner. Boy, I was totally under-whelmed. Not impressed at all. Food was not that great (I had the grilled whole red snapper) and it was way pricey for what we got. And the lime soup really sucked. Oh well……..back to the hotel………..Did I mention what an INCREDIBLE hotel the Playa Azul is??? Well, don’t tell anyone, ok??? Two really nice features……they had ice machines that really worked, and the A/C will freeze you out. This coming from a Texan who runs his A/C 10 months a year…………….

Off on the Arrecifes, and my FIRST Shark!!!!!!

Monday:  Slept in a little on Monday – woke up at 8:00. Had another breakfast of pastries and juice on the patio. Once again a sky so blue it almost hurts to look at it. I had breakfast with my sunglasses on, it was so bright outside. Went to plaza in search of I-net service. Found a place behind and upstairs from Fat Tuesday. Was ok – it had a/c and was like, $4 for fifteen minutes. Do not go here to do your email. We went to the Calling Station later on – they were only 10 cents per minute, minimum of $1.00. MUCH more reasonable. Anyway, after we sent a few emails to some amigos back home, we headed out for the Nachi Cocom Beach Club. We went here a couple of times last year……really liked it. Quiet, very nice beach, good food……but then we heard they were charging $10 per person. We thought we would go and check it out. We pulled into the parking lot, and saw a sign that said $10 adults, $5 kids. So we went on in, saw some cruisers, but found a couple of lounges under a palapa down the beach. Laid out our stuff, and no one ever tried to charge us. So, we did the reading/sunning/swimming/eating thing for the rest of the day. Food note: The guac here is as good as we have had on the island. The nachos were really good too, but the salsa does have a bite!!! Great for me, but mrs. twelvevolt had to take it easy on it. Back to the hotel, cleaned up and back to El Moro for dinner. Mrs. 12V had the sopa de lima again, and I had shrimp veracruz………shrimp cooked up in a tomato based sauce with onions, peppers………muy delicioso………and the biggest danged shrimp I have ever seen. Do not, and I repeat DO NOT miss this restaurant. Back to hotel, and sat out on the beach looking at the stars. An awesome sight indeed, especially if you are used to the bleached out, light polluted skies here in the states.

Tuesday:   Up early this morning, more juice and pastries, and off to the pro-dive pier to meet the Arricifes snorkel boat. Boat was late, got there about 9:30. We pier-hopped down the coast, picking up other passengers at the various hotels. Wound up with about 20 on the boat. Two of the crew, Edwardo and Chuco, remembered us from last year. (Probably because most of the passengers last year stiffed the crew tip-wise, and it pissed me off so bad I know I over-tipped, but I did not want them to think all Americans were arrogant, snobbish a__holes…..OK, OK, I will get off my Ugly-American soap-box). It was really nice that they did tho……..Anyway, all the way down the coast, I continued to observe heavy concentrations of the thimble jellies. Good thing we brought our dive-skins. As we neared our first stop, we started putting them on. Several people asked us if we knew something they didn’t. I told them about the jellies, but as we got further south I did not see any more, and did not see any at all the whole time we were in the water. I took my skin off (was getting hot) but mrs. twelvevolt kept hers on.….she always got a little cool in the water. First stop was at “Second Sky”, lots of starfish, fish, and……..MY FIRST SHARK!!! About 4 feet long! WOW! Was I excited!!!!! OK, OK, it was a nurse shark. But hey, to a land lubber like me, it was very exciting. But, big brave shark that it was, the minute it saw us it took off for parts unknown. But I hung back of the rest of the folks, and sure enough, he returned a few minutes later. It tried to hide down beneath a coral formation, and a couple of people who had stayed behind with me, we went down to check him out. Touched (very briefly!) his tail, then rejoined the group. Next stop was the Punta Sur reef, which we did not do last year. Wow. I mean, like wow. The most awesome coral formations I have ever seen. Fan coral, HUGE staghorn corals that looked like trees, reaching almost to the top of the water. Not a lot of fish, but the many types and the vastness of the coral formations more than made up for it. Wow. Then on to Columbia and Palancar. Mrs. twelvevolt got a little nervous when we drifted over the Palancar reef, and saw the drop-off into the “abyss”…….I thought it was really cool………Edwardo and the rest of the crew really work hard to make sure everyone has a good time and enjoys themselves. This year, we had a pretty “serious-snorkeling” group….so there wasn’t a lot of partying going on. But, once we snorkeled all the reefs, and headed for lunch at Nachi Cocom, everybody did kick back and enjoy a few cervezas………..The buffet at Nachi Cocom was really pretty good……not worth the $11 they charge everyone else…..but pretty good after a full morning of snorkeling and swimming with the current and all. Met some really nice folks on the boat, all agreed to meet at Dzul Ha Thursday morning. Dropped everybody off, back to the pro-dive pier, took pics of the crew, and drove back to the Playa Azul. Cleaned up, went back to the Plaza. We were pretty tired, a full day, so we just snacked for dinner and back to Playa Azul and just crashed. I really recommend the Arrecifes if you really are a “serious” snorkeler………Great boat and Edwardo is simply the best.

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